Alpine Ice Climbs
Many peaks in the Sierra contain couloirs that hold permanent snow and ice. As the summer stretches into August many melt freeze cycles have hardened spring snow creating high quality alpine ice. These climbs range in length, steepness and difficulty and offer something for everybody. We have been ice climbing since 1987 and are intimately familiar with the many fine gully ice climbs in the Sierra. Listed below are some with scheduled dates and prices based on a minimum of two.
All can be booked any time with advanced reservation. See our private rates for custom dates.
We also offer most of these routes as early season snow climbs.
Listed here are a few of our all time favorites. Get in touch with our office for more specific information about a particular climb.
We can lead trips on any of the 70+ alpine ice climbs in the Sierra. If you are interested in a particular climb you don’t see listed contact our office!
Dana Couloir, Mt. Dana
1 Day
Elevation 13,053 feet, 3978m
Difficulty rating: Grade 4 Ice
Beginner
The Dana Couloir extends over 1200 feet above the Dana Glacier. The chute is sustained 40-45 degrees offering 6-8 pitches of roped ice climbing. A short hike above the couloir leads to a spectacular summit with views of Mono Lake to the east, and Tuolumne Meadows and Yosemite Valley to the west.
Cost:
$225 per person based on a minimum of two people
Dates:
Custom dates available between June and October, Contact SMI
Mt. Gilbert, Northwest Couloir
1 Day
Elevation 13,106 feet, 3994m
Difficulty rating: Grade 4-5 Ice
Intermediate
Mt. Gilbert is located above South Lake. It requires one full day to approach and climb. We leave the cars before sunrise with the goal of returning by sunset. The Northwest Couloir on Mt. Gilbert is one of the finest in the Sierra. It is 5-6 pitches long with each pitch getting progressively steeper. The couloir narrows near the top and the last pitch reaches 55 degrees.
Cost:
$225 per person based on a minimum of two people
Dates:
Custom dates available between June and October, Contact SMI
Red Slate Mountain, North Couloir
3 Days
Elevation 13,163 feet, 4012m
Difficulty rating: Grade 4 Ice
Beginner
Located on the north side of Red Slate Mountain is a 1300+ foot couloir that provides an excellent introduction to long Sierra gully climbs. The climbing is at a sustained but moderate 40 to 45-degree angle. We spend the first day approaching the climb and in the afternoon review techniques. An early start finds us entering the gully at sunrise. This peak is a hidden gem with good access, great climbing, and few encounters with other people.
Cost:
$440 per person, based on a minimum of two people
Dates:
Custom dates available between June and October, Contact SMI
Mt. Darwin, North Glacier
3 Days
Elevation 13,830 feet, 4215m
Difficulty rating: Grade 4+ Ice
Beginner/Intermediate
Mt. Darwin is the next peak south of Mt. Mendel and is the pinnacle of the evolution range of the Sierra. The North Glacier ascends 1500 feet above the Darwin Glacier. It starts as a wide open snowfield that gets progressively steeper and ends in a narrow couloir near its soaring summit offering great views in all directions.
Cost:
$780 per person
Dates:
Custom dates available between June and October, Contact SMI
V-Notch Couloir, Polemonium Peak
3 Days
Elevation 14,080 feet, 4291m
Difficulty rating: Grade 5 Ice
Intermediate
The V-Notch Couloir is a 900-foot ice climb about 50-55 degrees steep located in the Palisades. Like all the backcountry ice routes in the Sierra it typically sets up by mid August and stays in shape until the first snows hit in late fall making the area much more difficult to access. This climb is considered by many to be their favorite ice climb in the Sierra. Above the couloir some exciting 4th class climbing brings us to the 14,080’ summit of Polemonium Peak named after the flower that lives above 12,000 feet in the Sierra.
Cost:
$780 per person
Dates:
Custom dates available between June and October, Contact SMI
Mt. Mendel, Right and Left Mendel Couloirs
3 Days
Elevation 13,710 feet, 4178m
Right Mendel Couloir
Difficulty rating: Grade 5 Ice
High Intermediate
Left Mendel Couloir (Ice Nine)
Difficulty rating: Grade 5+ Ice and rock
Advanced
Mt. Mendel is located in the Evolution Region of the Sierra. It is a lofty summit with a breathtaking 360-degree view. Located on Mt. Mendel’s north side are chutes that comprise two of the finest alpine ice climbs in the country. The right couloir is 11 pitches long and negotiates a bulge 60+ degrees steep at the crux and tops out with a series of low 5th class rock moves.
The Left Mendel Couloir is considered the hardest ice climb in the Sierra. The ice can get thin and up to 80 degrees steep. In some places mixed rock and ice techniques are used. We are proud to offer the Ice Nine climb to our past clientele.
Cost:
Right Mendel Couloir: $780 per person
Left Mendel Couloir: $875 per person
Dates:
Custom dates available between June and October, Contact SMI
Ask us about combining both climbs in one trip!
Sierra Mountaineering International is an authorized mountaineering guide service operating in partnership under special use permit with the Inyo National Forest, Sequoia/Kings Canyon National Park, Joshua Tree National Park, and other agencies where applicable.
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