Author: Kurt Wedberg

Summit Success on Mexico’s Volcanoes!

Posted on November 14, 2011 by Kurt Wedberg - International Expeditions, Iztaccihuatl, Mexico's Volcanoes, Orizaba, SMI News

Orizaba team summit photo at 9:30am on 11-11-11. From left to right: Rick Piette, April Mayhew, Mickey Jojola, Lloyd Charton, Miriam Diaz, John Baer, and Kurt Wedberg

Our annual trip to Mexico’s Volcanoes was another big success with 100% of the team reaching the summits of both Iztaccíhuatl and El Pico de Orizaba!

Our team met in Mexico City on Friday November 4, 2011. After a nice dinner and a walk around the center of the city on a clear warm night we were ready to depart on Saturday for Iztaccíhuatl. We stayed true to our successful acclimatization schedule we have been using in previous years. After spending three days taking hikes to increasingly higher elevation we found ourselves at the high refugio along the “La Arista del Sol” route at 4780m/15,682’. We bedded down after an early dinner in preparation for our pre-dawn start for summit day. Waking in the wee hours we were greeted to a pleasantly calm windless night with mild temperatures. With headlamps aiding us in our route finding shouldered our rucksacks carrying warm clothes, ice axes, crampons, climbing helmets, harnesses, ropes, snacks and water for the day. Several hours of climbing brought us high on Iztaccihuatl’s flanks as we were greeted to a beautiful sunrise to the east. We applied sunscreen and sunglasses then kept a slow steady pace up the beautiful ridgeline offering stunning views that leads to the summit. The crisp calm air on the summit afforded us the opportunity to take a few minutes to relax and enjoy the views before taking summit photos and starting our descent. We were back to the refugio 10 ½ hours after we set out for the summit. Here we took a break to rehydrate then packed up our gear for the descent back to the trailhead. Another three hours of walking led us to the base of our route where we were picked up and whisked off to the city of Puebla to clean up and celebrate a successful climb with a good meal.

On November 9 the team organized gear and traveled to the town of Tlachichuca. This quaint village sits at the base of our next objective; El Pico de Orizaba, which at 5611m/18,410’ is the 3^rd highest peak in North America. We had the afternoon to reorganize our gear and take a walk around town while sampling local food including local fruit and fresh guacamole.

On November 10 we loaded our gear into a 4×4 vehicle for the drive through the rural Mexican countryside that leads us to the Pierdra Grande hut at 4260m/13,976’. SMI guide April Mayhew cooked pizzas for dinner while clouds swirled outside. Weather had changed from the calm and clear conditions we had on Iztaccíhuatl to cloudy and cool here on Orizaba. We packed the same equipment we needed on our previous climb and got a few hours of sleep in preparation for our summit attempt.

Clouds had partially dissipated revealing stars and an almost full moon. The team made a final check of equipment then began with headlamps on. The route begins by picking a way through a trail lined with volcanic rock. After a couple hours of climbing we reached continuous snow that required ice axe/crampons and divided into two rope teams led by SMI guides April Mayhew and Kurt Wedberg. Our route continued through a labyrinth of snow and volcanic rocks that led to the final 2000’/610m of climbing. Here the route opens up to the Jamapa Glacier that wraps around Orizaba’s flanks of this classic cone shaped dormant volcano. Above we saw evidence of high winds as cloud banks repeatedly swelled and shrank over the summit crater. Temperatures dropped significantly as we climbed into a steady cold wind that the open glacier offered no protection from. Adding windbreakers, heavy gloves, goggles, and eventually our puffy down parkas our team took careful deliberate steps in the crunchy snow. Conditions on the glacier made for secure footing with our crampons as the sun rose and cast a shadow over the rural Mexican farm fields far below. We would stay in shade until reaching the crater rim which presented the challenges of keeping our feet and hands warm. Cutting switchbacks for our route offered is the opportunity to continuously switch which hand held our ice axes, which helped us warm each free hand since the cold from our ice axes was conducting through our gloves. Each team member did an excellent job adjusting to the challenging conditions and as we crested on to the crater rim we were greeted by the warming rays of direct sunlight. Here we took a food/water break and applied sunscreen before traversing around the crater rim to its highest point. The location of the summit gave us a respite from the brunt of the wind which allowed us a few minutes to take pictures and enjoy the view from the 3^rd highest point in North America that we reached at 9:00am on 11-11-11!

Temperatures warmed for us on the descent and we were back to Piedra Grande by 11:40am. Our drivers took us back to Tlachichuca for showers and a nice meal. On Saturday we drove back towards Mexico City by way of the Teotihuacan pyramids. It is always nice to learn about the history and culture from these exotic destinations we visit on SMI international expeditions.

A big congratulations to the entire team on two great climbs on Mexico’s Volcanoes: John Baer, Lloyd Charton, Miriam Diaz, Mickey Jojola, April Mayhew, Rick Piette, and Kurt Wedberg.

A few pictures are below. The entire photo gallery can be found here: Mexico’s Volcanoes November 4-13, 2011.

The National Palace on one side of the Zocolo (Main Plaza) as seen from the Catedral Metropoliana in the center of Mexico City.

Shopping at a local market before climbing Iztaccihuatl.

Lloyd enjoying the local market in the town of Amecameca.

Fresh fruit and vegetable medley for breakfast.

The team psyched and ready to climb Iztaccihuatl.

John Baer on the approach the the high hut on Iztaccihuatl.

Mickey enjoying the approach on Iztaccihuatl.

The team on the approach to Iztaccihuatl's high hut.

Sunrise high on Iztaccihuatl.

Climbing Iztaccihuatl's beautiful ridgeline offering stunning scenery.

Rick Piette stepping out on the summit of Iztaccihuatl.

April, Mickey, John, and Miriam topping out on Iztaccihuatl.

Team summit photo on Iztaccihuatl.

El Pico de Orizaba from the town of Tlachichuca.

The team geared up and ready to climb Orizaba.

Sunrise from high on Orizaba.

Taking a break on the crater rim of Orizaba.

The team nearing the summit of Orizaba.

View of the crater rim on Orizaba.

Team photo on the summit of Orizaba. Congratulations team!!

The Lost Arrow Direct, Yosemite Valley V 5.9/A2 – C2

Posted on September 30, 2011 by Kurt Wedberg - Lost Arrow Spire, Rock Climbing, Sierra Nevada, SMI News, Yosemite Valley

The Lost Arrow Spire is the needle protruding out of the face to the right of Yosemite Falls.

This is a report of a climb of Yosemite’s Lost Arrow Spire as written by Kurt Wedberg.

On September 27-30 SMI founder Kurt Wedberg joined big wall veteran Skiy Detray and Amanda Fenn for a climb of this famous feature in Yosemite Valley. Amanda is a strong climber who spent this past summer expanding her resume and climbing skills into the alpine environment. Skiy is a veteran of 40+ big walls and served several summers on YOSAR, the Yosemite Search and Rescue. He spent most of this past summer in Pakistan on the Great Trango Tower (6,286 m/20,623 ft), a striking rock formation above the Baltoro Glacier in the Karakoram. He also has set speed records for ascents of routes in Yosemite. Shortly after our climb of the Lost Arrow Spire he did the first one day ascent of El Capitan’s Scorched Earth A4 5.8 in 22:28 and Tribal Rite A4 5.5 in 19:48. Needless to say his knowledge and depth of experience were a treat to glean from. It was a pleasure to share a rope with both Skiy and Amanda. To have the opportunity to share a 4-day climb of one of the most well known features in Yosemite was truly a privilege. The Lost Arrow gets its name from an Indian legend. The story of the Lost Arrow is included at the bottom of the photo essay.

Below is a short photo essay of our climb. The entire photo galleries from all three team member’s cameras can be found here:

Amanda’s Lost Arrow Spire Pictures

Kurt’s Lost Arrow Spire Pictures

Skiy’s Lost Arrow Spire Pictures

Skiy and Amanda with haul bags loaded and ready for the approach.

Crossing the creek below Yosemite Falls on the approach to the Lost Arrow Spire.

The Lost Arrow Spire directly above with Yosemite Falls on the left.

Skiy ascending up pitch #1.

Amanda leading pitch #2.

Skiy leading the wide "off width" on pitch #3.

Amanda and a typical anchor station on day 1.

After dinner bedded down for the night on a small ledge four pitches up.

The morning sunlight creating a rainbow on Yosemite Falls.

Kurt leading pitch #5 on the morning of day 2.

Our goal tonight is the upper tree. Kurt is leading a pitch in the lower right of this photo.

Amanda taking off on the lead for pitch #6.

Skiy and our haul bags at a belay station.

Skiy taking off on a lead with our destination tree getting closer.

Amanda high up leading on pitch #8.

Skiy on the morning of day 3 relaxing on the ledge we slept on the night before.

Amanda leading a pitch on day 3.

Amanda high up on a lead with her gear she placed showing her line of ascent.

Anchored off and bedded down after dinner on a small ledge at the end of day 3.

The warming rays of the morning sun made for a peaceful morning on day 4 with Yosemite Valley far below.

Skiy and Amanda from "the notch" where the Lost Arrow Spire separates from the main wall. We will climb two more pitches to the top of the pinnacle then do a Tyrolean Traverse to get back to the main face.

Skiy hamming it up on pitch 14 on a beautiful fall morning in Yosemite.

The view of Kurt's feet looking down from the middle of pitch #14.

Amanda taking off to lead the final pitch of climbing.

Skiy and Amanda at the top of the Lost Arrow Spire.

Now we have to traverse approximately 140' on a rope to get to the main wall and finish the climb.

Skiy removing old UV damaged webbing on the anchor we would use for the traverse.

Kurt securing new webbing for the anchor.

Our anchored ropes leading off over the expanse. We had a friend anchor these ropes to the main face a couple days before we arrived.

Skiy volunteered to be the first to test our anchor system.

Skiy nearing half way on the traverse.

Amanda's turn. Skiy is just to the left of Amanda's head with a perfect view of all the action.

Wind picked up in the afternoon adding to the excitement as Amanda traversed.

View looking down in the middle of the traverse.

The final bit to ascend to finish the climb.

Kurt on the Tyrolean Traverse. Photo by Skiy Detray.

In addition to fixing ropes we were left with a little present to celebrate out climb!

After a good night's sleep it was time to hike down. We loaded our haul bags and descended down the Yosemite Falls trail.

Loading heavy haul bags on your back is a great squat workout.

On the descent we got a surprise and very welcomed visit from our good friends Trish, McKenzie, and Drew. They met us on the trail with fresh bananas, hot breakfast burritos, and EMPTY PACKS!!

Three amigos with our route behind.

THE LEGEND OF THE LOST ARROW

Kos-su-kah, a young chief of the Ah-wah-nee-chees, smiled upon a maiden, Tee-hee-nay. Kos-su-kah was tall and strong and brave. Among all the sons of Ah-wah-nee there was none so keen of sight, so swift of foot, or so skilled in the use of the bow and the arts of the chase. Tee-hee-nay was the fairest and most beautiful of all the fair daughters of Ah-wah-nee. She was tall and slender as the fir, and as graceful and supple as the stem of the azalea. Her hands and feet were small and beautifully shaped, her silken hair was black as a moonless night and fell in a cloud to her knees. Her eyes were luminous pools of light, and her voice was liquid in its sweetness. Her laugh was like the musical tinkling of the brook, and she was good as she was beautiful.

Tee-hee-nay smiled upon the handsome Kos-su-kah, thereby confessing her love for him, and nothing remained but the formal presentation, by Kos-su-kah, of suitable gifts to her parents, and the preparation of a feast to celebrate their wedding. Kos-su-kah’s suit was approved by the parents of Tee-hee-nay and the lovers were filled with joy. They began preparations immediately for a royal wedding feast. To do this Tee-hee-nay, assisted by the maidens of the tribe, would gather acorns and prepare the acorn bread and mush, collect grass seeds, wild fruits and edible roots; while Kos-su-kah should gather about him the best hunters of his tribe and participate in a big., hunt on the high mountains that there might be an abundance of meat for the feast, to which the entire tribe would be invited.

Before saying their good-byes it was agreed between them that at sunset Kos-su-kah should go to the column of rock which stands just to the east of Cho-lak (Yosemite Fall), and from there launch from his strong bow into the Valley an arrow, bearing on its shaft grouse feathers corresponding in number to the deer that had fallen before the skill of himself and his companions. That she might mark the flight of the arrow and the spot of its falling, and thus be the first to carry news of the success of the hunt to her tribe, Tee-hee-nay was to go at sunset to the base of the cliff and there watch for the signal.

After a most successful hunt, while his companions were making camp for the night, and preparing their game for transportation down to the Valley, Kos-su-kah made his way to the point agreed upon, prepared the signal arrow, and was just ready to send it on its mission into the Valley, when the cliff’s edge on which he was standing, gave way, carrying him with it and hurling him to his death on the rocks below.

After the seemingly endless day of waiting, Tee-hee-nay made her way to the appointed spot, and as the sun went down behind the cliffs, stood straining her eyes up to the heights, hoping to catch a glimpse of the manly form of her lover. But when night had settled his dusky mantle over the Valley, Kos-su-kah had failed to appear, and no signal arrow had winged its way down from the cliff above. Thinking that the chase had led him farther afield than they had anticipated, that he had been unable to reach the cliff before darkness, and, knowing that his signal arrow would not be seen, he was, even now, making his way down the boulder strewn trail of Indian Canyon to deliver in person his message, she bound up the trail hoping to meet him. Over rocks and fallen trees from ledge to ledge, over precipices where a misstep meant certain death she hurried until at last she gained the foot of the cliff at a point from which, should he come, she could not miss him. There, through the long hours of the night, she waited and listened, longing for the welcome sound of his footsteps or his dear voice, and sending winging through the dark void of the night sobbing, passionate prayers to The Great Spirit for the safety of her loved one.

But when the first rosy fingers of dawn lit up the eastern sky and brought no sight of her lover, she sprang like a deer up the steep trail to the top of the cliff, and hurried to the spot from which the signal was to have been given. She called to Kos-su-kah, but only the echo of her voice came back in answer to her yearning cry. Reaching at last the edge of the cliff she came to the point from which a large portion had but recently fallen away. With sobbing breath and a heart numb with an awful certainty, she forced herself to look over the edge, and saw lying far below, the blood-stained lifeless body of her lover.

Stunned by the terrible grief of her loss Tee-hee-nay built, on the top of the cliff, a signal fire and summoned help from the tribe below. The heavy, lagging hours of waiting dragged away, and at last the asked for help arrived. Preparations were at once made for the recovery of the lifeless body of Kos-su-kah. A rope was fashioned from the trunks of young tamaracks by lashing them together with the thongs of the deer that were to have furnished the meat for the wedding feast. When this was finished a young chief prepared to descend, but Tee-hee-nay pushed him aside. She herself must be the first to reach her lover, her hands the ones to perform this sad service. The sympathetic braves lowered her gently down the cliff until she stood beside Kos-su-kah’s battered body. After gently kissing his cold, unresponsive lips she unwound from around her waist the thongs of deerskin and bound his body firmly to the rope, then watched in loving anxiety while the braves gently raised him to the cliff top. The rope was again lowered and Tee-hee-nay was drawn up to the side of her dead lover. Then she, who up to this time had been so brave, gave way to a passionate storm of grief. Throwing herself across the body of her loved one she entreated him to speak to her, sobbing prayers to The Great Spirit for the return of her dead. After a while her cries ceased and she grew quiet. When gentle hands stooped to lift her she fell back lifeless. She had died of a broken heart and her gentle spirit had winged its way to join her lover’s in El-o-win, the spirit land beyond the setting sun.

Reverent hands brought the two bodies of the lovers, now reunited in death, down into the Valley, placed them side by side upon the funeral pyre, and scattered their loved. The signal arrow was never found, having been spirited away by the reunited lovers to El-o-win as a memento of their unfaltering love. And in memory of the beautiful maiden and the noble chief, the slender spire of granite, still standing there near the spot where Kos-su-kah’s body was found, has ever since been known to the sons and daughters of Ah-wah-nee, as Hum-mo, or the lost arrow.

NE Face of Middle Palisade Peak August 12-14, 2011 – Another Crowd Pleaser

Posted on August 15, 2011 by Kurt Wedberg - California 14ers, Middle Palisade Peak, Sierra Nevada, SMI News

The team on the summit of Middle Palisade Peak

On August 12 guides April Mayhew and Kurt Wedberg met two long time great friends of SMI John Rogitz and Fred Simmons plus Fred’s son James for a climb of Middle Palisade Peak. Spectacular weather and good friends came together for a memorable climb of one of California’s 14ers. Excellent snow conditions on the Middle Palisade Glacier led to the 1000′ 3rd class scramble to the summit. A few pictures are below. The rest can be found here: Middle Palisade Peak August 12-14, 2011.

The creeks have remained high all summer. 6'3" Fred is up well past his knees.

SMI guide April cooking pizzas at camp with a mosquito netting hair net.

Polemonium in full bloom.

John geared up and ready on the pre dawn start for summit day.

Fred, John, and April on the Middle Palisade Glacier.

Jim surmounting the bergshrund of the glacier that leads to the start of the 3rd class rock climbing.

John and Fred negotiating the 3rd class rock climbing on the route.

April and Jim high on the route.

Jim picking is way high up on the route at 13,800'.

April leading up one of the last short pitches below the summit.

Jim on the final moves leading to the summit of Middle Palisade Peak.

Jim and Fred Simmons pose for a father/son summit photo.

John and Fred on the summit.

April reaching for the sky on Middle Palisade's summit block.

Summit photo on Middle Palisade Peak (14,012'/4271m).

Kurt jumping into Brainard Lake on the descent the day after reaching the summit of "Middle Pal".

Starlight Peak August 8-10, 2011 – Congratulations Ed on Completing the CA 14ers!!

Posted on August 12, 2011 by Kurt Wedberg - California 14ers, Sierra Nevada, SMI News, Starlight Peak

On August 8-10 our good friend of SMI Ed Saenz visited us for his long anticipated completion of the California 14,000’ peaks. Ed started this quest a few years ago and has steadily ticked them off his list. The last of them was Starlight Peak (14,200’/4328m) in the Palisades region of the Sierra. The crux of this climb is the “Milk Bottle”. This pinnacle of rock is about 40’/12m high. It is airy and exposed and offers a great sense of accomplishment. Also joining us on this climb was Cory Cline who has been steadily “knocking off” the California 14ers. This would be his 9^th summit. SMI guides Trevor Anthes and Kurt Wedberg rounded out the team.

The approach to this climb took us out of South Lake on the Bishop Pass trail. After gaining Bishop Pass (11,972’/3649m) we traversed south towards Thunderbolt Col then down into Palisade Basin where we set up camp. An early dinner was followed by packing and crawling into our sleeping bags in preparation for our climb the following day.

Starting daybreak we climbed into the mouth of the Northwest Chute, roped up, and began climbing the 3^rd and 4^th class terrain that leads to the Milk Bottle. The day broke clear and calm with pleasant temperatures. The team moved well and we found ourselves arriving at the Milk Bottle in the late morning. Ed and Kurt arrived first.

Upon arrival they wasted no time in preparing to climb the Milk Bottle. Taking a belay from Ed, Kurt climbed the 5.7 pinnacle to the top. The climb is unprotected meaning there is nowhere to place any gear until the top of the pinnacle is reached. Anchoring the top are a sling plus a ¼” bolt so our climbing rope can be slung through a solid point allowing the others to climb the Milk Bottle with a “top rope” belay. Cory and Trevor arrived soon after and everybody took a turn climbing the Milk Bottle that makes up Starlight Peak. Pleasant temperatures allowed us to stay on top for a while eating lunch and enjoying the view before descending back to camp.

On day 3 we packed up and hiked back out to South Lake.

That evening the team had the pleasure of celebrating Ed’s successful completion of all 15 California 14ers with a big dinner at Whiskey Creek in Bishop. This is a big accomplishment for any Sierra mountaineer to achieve. Ed also made it a point to help others along the way by raising money for two worthy causes: Friends of Frankie and the Widows’ and Orphans’ Aid Association. Friends of Frankie is an organization founded to help out Frankie Shouldice, who is a young boy currently suffering from leukemia. Widows and Orphans Aid Association is a San Francisco based organization founded to help out families that have lost a parent who worked as an officer for the SFPD by providing financial aid and scholarship support. If you would like to donate to these worthy causes you may do so by sending checks made payable to “Friends of Frankie” or “Widows’ and Orphans’ Aid Association” to: Officer Ed Saenz C/o San Francisco Police Dept 301 Eddy St. San Francisco, CA 94102

Congratulations Ed on a job well done!! A few pictures are below. The entire photo gallery from the climb can be found here: Starlight Peak August 8-10, 2011.

The team at Bishop Pass on August 8. From left to right: Trevor Anthes, Ed Saenz, Kurt Wedberg, and Cory Cline.

Cory followed by Ed on the approach to Thunderbolt Col.

Trevor cooking up a delicious dinner of fresh pasta and vegetables on August 8.

Evening light on the Palisades Crest. Above is Starlight Peak, North Palisade Peak, and Polemonium Peak.

Trevor and Ed on the Northwest Chute.

Trevor and Cory traversing across 3rd class ground on the climb of the Northwest Chute that leads to Starlight Peak.

Ed happy to be getting the first rays of sun on our climb.

Cory taking advantage of secure footing on the 3rd class terrain in the Northwest Chute.

Ed nearing the top of the Milk Bottle.

Ed standing atop the Milk Bottle!!

Ed lowering off the Milk Bottle after tagging the summit!

Cory sitting on top of the Milk Bottle.

This makes 9 of the 15 California 14ers accomplished for Cory!!

Trevor takes a turn standing on top of the Milk Bottle.

After setting up the top rope Kurt takes another run at the Milk Bottle.

Kurt making pizzas back at camp.

Ed and Kurt happy back at the South Lake trailhead. Congratulations Ed!!

SMI Salutes Jansport Founder Skip Yowell

Posted on August 5, 2011 by Kurt Wedberg - SMI News

Jansport founder Skip Yowell speaking at his retirement party.

44 years ago Skip Yowell helped found one of the iconic companies in the outdoor industry when Jansport was formed. From its early days in Seattle it has grown into one of the largest and most successful outdoor companies ever. Skip has been there the entire time through many changes. During Skip’s career at Jansport he remained active in the outdoors climbing in the Cascades, most notably on Mt. Rainier. With Skip’s help Jansport worked closely with the guides at Rainier Mountaineering Inc to help develop and test gear. They also collaborated to do a yearly 5-day climb on Mt. Rainier specifically for people who work for Jansport dealers affectionately known as the “Jansport Seminar”.

In 1987 SMI founder Kurt Wedberg was a college student working at Adventure 16 Outdoor and Travel Outfitters who are a Jansport dealer. Kurt got the opportunity to be a participant in a Jansport Seminar where he climbed with a number a famous mountaineers. Skip was on that climb and that formed a friendship that continues to this day. This trip was made possible by Skip, Adventure 16, and the folks at RMI. Kurt would eventually become a senior guide at Rainier Mountaineering Inc working there during the summer months between 1991 – 2006. Since that first climb on Mt. Rainier Kurt has amassed 120 climbs of this great peak.

Through the years Skip has always been a big supporter of Kurt’s guiding career from his time on Mt. Rainier to forming Sierra Mountaineering International.

In addition to staying at the helm of Jansport Skip was always a great advocate for the entire outdoor industry. Among other things he served on the board of Big City Mountaineers. This well respected organization has been a leader in helping inner city and under privileged youth get introduced to the outdoors. SMI works closely with their Summit For Someone program that helps raise money for Big City Mountaineers.

After 44 years of representing Jansport and the outdoor industry so well Skip is retiring. SMI guides April Mayhew and Kurt Wedberg are currently attending the bi-annual outdoor industry trade show. This show is where all the outdoor manufacturers display their products for retail shops, guides, and the media. Jansport threw a retirement party for Skip at the trade show.

Skip will remain an ambassador for Jansport while pursuing other interests. We wish Skip the best as he enters a new chapter in his life. Skip remains one of the biggest icons in the outdoor industry and will always be considered a good friend. All the best to you Skip!!!

Mt. Whitney Mountaineer’s Route July 15-17, 2011

Posted on July 17, 2011 by Kurt Wedberg - California 14ers, Mt. Whitney, Sierra Nevada, SMI News

Beautiful Mt. Whitney at sunrise flanked by Keeler Needle and Day Needle to the left.

This is an attempt on Mt. Whitney’s Mountaineer’s Route as told by SMI guide Deb Leyh.

On July 15th I had the pleasure of meeting the Walter-Macbeth Clan. Team members included John, Amber, Andrew and myself (Guide Deb Leyh). The team is from Southern California, and an attempt of Whitney via the Mountaineer’s Route was the conclusion of a hiking vacation which took the family to Yosemite National Park and Devil’s Postpile. While the team were experienced day hikers, there would be many “firsts” on this trip. This would be the first backpack camping, first time above 11,000 feet, first exposure to crampons and ice axe, and first time on a climbers trail and 3rd Class rock!

Day 1 we hiked to Upper Boy Scout Lake (11,300 feet). We had great weather and nary a mosquito. I have never seen the stream crossings so high. All crossings to Lower Boy Scout Lake were passable, but some did require getting the feet wet. The team did a great job navigating the crossings and making their way up the exposed Ebersbacher Ledges. Above Lower Boy Scout Lake to Upper Boy Scout Lake is clear of snow. The water running on the slabs and waterfalls is incredible, and all this water has made a stunning wild flower bloom. We arrived at Upper Boy Scout Lake late afternoon and set-up camp and prepared for our summit attempt. After dinner – and a brief low down on WAG Bags (another “first”) – we retired to our tents with a night lit by an almost full-moon.

Summit day we woke at 4am and after breakfast began making our way to Iceberg Lake at first light. As I mentioned, this was a trip of many “firsts”, and accordingly, it took its toll. Since we weren’t moving at a daylight summit pace, the team decided to reprioritize. I commend the team members for coming to this realization because it is all too easy to get “summit fever” and lose perspective. Instead of summiting, we decided to explore the terrain to Iceberg Lake, and then move camp to Lower Boy Scout Lake (10,300 feet) for a change of venue. The team did a great job breaking down camp efficiently and descending to Lower Boys Scout Lake. Alas the misquotes were back in full force!

On Day 3 we had a pleasant hike out. The weather remained great for the entire trip, and despite not summiting, everyone had a great attitude. It’s important to enjoy the process, and to appreciate and respect this great route. The team was faced with many “firsts”, and I am very proud of their effort. They gave it 110 percent. While making our way to the Whitney Portal Store for lunch, minds were definitely churning on possible strategies for a future Whitney attempt, and I have no doubt that with more training and a continued positive attitude, they will get their Whitney summit!

Mt. Whitney Mountaineer’s Route July 9-10, 2011

Posted on July 11, 2011 by Kurt Wedberg - California 14ers, Mt. Whitney, Sierra Nevada, SMI News

Kurt and Ben at Whitney Portal ready to begin their climb.

This is a 2-day climb of Mt. Whitney’s Mountaineer’s Route as told by Kurt Wedberg.

Ben is from the UK where he is a student ready to finish up law school. Taking some time off he was on the tail end of an 8 month trip around the world. One of the last stops on his journey was California where he had hoped he could get a shot at climbing Mt. Whitney. I was in the office on a Friday afternoon when the call came in. Ben was in Lone Pine and wanted to know if we had any guides available to lead a climb of Mt. Whitney starting tomorrow. It is hit and miss whether or not we have somebody available on such short notice. It is always worth asking the question though and in this case I just happened to be free.

I quickly finished up at the office and went home to pack gear and food. I met Ben the next morning in Lone Pine where we divided up gear, packed, and drove up to Whitney Portal. The last time I was here was at the beginning of June on a stormy attempt at Mt. Russell. I was curious to see how much snow had melted since then and how full the creeks would be. They have been swollen and overflowing in other regions of the Sierra. The weather forecast was looking promising and everything was shaping up for a nice climb.

As we made our way up the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek we found the creeks here to be every bit as overflowing as other areas of the Sierra. Snow had melted off up to Lower Boyscout Lake at 10,300’/3139m and only small patches remained up to Upper Boyscout Lake at 11,300’/3444m. Not only had the melted snow caused the creeks to swell but it had also given way to wildflowers that were now out in force decorating the trail as we ascended to Upper Boyscout Lake where we planned to camp.

The long day ahead would mean an early dinner and a predawn start. Ascending above Upper Boyscout Lake we hit continuous snow at 12,200’/3719m. Crampons and ice axe were indicated from here as we ascended up the 40 degree snow to Iceberg Lake at 12,600’/3841m. As the sun rose it cast an orange glow on the sheer east faces of Mt. Whitney, Keeler Needle, and Day Needle. Above Iceberg Lake the snow felt like Styrofoam underfoot making for perfect cramponing right up the 35 degree slope. Temperatures remained pleasant with little wind and a clear sky. The snow ended about 300 vertical feet below the notch at 14,000’/4267m. Turning south we looked up the final 500’/150m that leads to the highest point in the contiguous United States. The terrain steepens to 40+ degrees requiring the use of hands and feet over the 3^rd class terrain. Using a small rope for security we moved quickly over the terrain and found ourselves signing the register of the summit of Mt. Whitney at 9AM.

The descent had us retracing our steps back to camp where we packed up and continued down to Whitney Portal arriving in time to enjoy burgers from the Whitney Portal Store where they make the best bacon cheeseburgers on the planet!! Thanks Ben for a great climb!!

A few pictures are below. The entire photo gallery can be found here: Mt. Whitney July 9-10, 2011.

Snow plants are plentiful near the pine trees in the ower North Fork of Line Pine Creek.

Ben at the first swollen creek crossing on the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek.

Red columbine

Ben on the route above Lower Boyscout Lake.

Ben on the granite slabs below Upper Boyscout Lake. The water running over the rock comes from the outlet of Upper Boy Scout Lake and makes for a pretty scene as we ascend to the lake.

Upper Boy Scout Lake

Summit day has arrived!

Ben navigating by headlamp with the first signs of sunrise from the east.

Morning light on beautiful Mt. Whitney.

At a rest break before starting up the Mountaineer's Chute we put away headlamps, adjusted clothing layers, and applied sunscreen.

In the middle of the Mountaineer's Chute with Iceberg Lake below.

Polemonium "Sky Pilot" high in the Mountaineer's Chute. This beautiful wildflower only blooms above approximately 12,000'/3657m in the Sierra.

Topping out at the "notch" at 14,000'/4267m

The final 500'/152m of the route that leads to the summit.

Ben making some of the final moves below the summit of Mt. Whitney.

Summit photo at 9AM on July 10, 2011!!

Mt. Gilbert’s Engram Couloir

Posted on July 8, 2011 by Kurt Wedberg - Alpine Rock Climbing, Ice Climbing, Mt. Gilbert, Sierra Nevada, SMI News

Mt. Gilbert with the Engram Couloir

This is a climb of Mt. Gilbert’s Engram Couloir as told by Kurt Wedberg.

Tom Sakowych came to use a few years ago with an interest in completing the SPS list of peaks. The Sierra Peaks Section of the Sierra Club created this list in 1955 as a representation of what they believed are a good sampling of peaks in this great mountain range. The original list had 100 peaks. Many have since been added and the current list encompasses 248 mountains. Some are relatively straightforward hikes to their summits while others require knowledge and expertise in a wide range of technical mountaineering skills to safely climb them.

Mt. Gilbert at 13,106’/3995m is located along the Thompson Ridge just north of Bishop Pass and is rightfully included in the SPS list. It is a lofty summit that offers spectacular views of the Sierra from all sides. From looking west into LeConte Canyon in Sequoia/Kings Canyon National Park, to the south where many of the California 14ers are on display one gets a real sense of the majesty of all the Sierra has to offer. If all of this isn’t enough Mt. Gilbert has a steep couloir on its north side that offers a real mountaineering challenge. This 900’/274m snow/ice route is called the Engram Couloir.

Mt. Gilbert is typically climbed in one day from the South Lake parking lot. Leaving before morning light hit the trail we began navigating by headlamps up the Bishop Pass trail then turned right onto the Treasure Lakes trail. Crossing a couple swollen creeks we then climbed a steep hillside decorated with pine trees and granite slabs. This landscape eventually gave way to snow that was still hanging on from our heavy winter. Donning crampons and ice axes we traversed into the Thompson Ridge basin and angled across the snowy terrain to the base of the Gilbert Couloir.

Climbing into the couloir the terrain continued to get steeper eventually reaching close to 50 degrees near the top. Conditions allowed for the perfect kicking of steps up the route. As we gained altitude the views became increasingly spectacular. Topping out on the couloir we immediately had a bird’s eye view into upper LeConte Canyon. Leaving our crampons and ice axes here we turned south and climbed a couple pitches of steep 3^rd/4^th class rock to the summit of Mt. Gilbert.

After enjoying the view and some well-earned summit photos we retraced our steps back down the way we came. Back to the cars by 5pm another stellar day in the mountains with superb weather in spectacular alpine terrain with great companionship. Thanks Tom for another great climb!!

A few pictures are below. The entire photo gallery can be found here: Mt. Gilbert’s Engram Couloir July 7, 2011.

Morning light hitting the Thompson Ridge.

Tom crossing a swollen creek on the approach.

Looking up all 900'/274m of the Engram Couloir.

Tom enjoying the climbing high in the Engram Couloir

Tom in the north at the top of the Engram Couloir.

Tom negotiating the 3rd/4th class terrain en route to the summit of Mt. Gilbert.

Summit photo on top of Mt. Gilbert.

Kurt on the summit of Mt. Gilbert.

Mt Williamson and Mt Tyndall July 1-5, 2011

Posted on July 6, 2011 by Kurt Wedberg - California 14ers, Mt. Tyndall, Mt. Williamson, Sierra Nevada, SMI News

Summit photo from Mt. Williamson (14,375'/4382m) on July 3, 2011. From left to right: Kurt Wedberg, Ralph Buoncristiani, Greg Lukenbill, Demetria Gianopoulos, and April Mayhew.

This is a post about our 2011 trip to Mt. Williamson and Mt. Tyndall as told by SMI guide Kurt Wedberg.

Freshly back from Africa we were looking forward to returning to our home in the Eastern Sierra and guiding climbs in our back yard. Mt. Williamson and Mt. Tyndall are two remotely located California 14ers located just south of Shepherd Pass. The terrain is rugged and the scenery is gorgeous. We offer this trip once each year and it is always a treat to re-visit this area.

The approach for this 5-day trip starts at the Symmes Creek trailhead at 6199’/1889m and leads us over Shepherd Pass (12,000’/3657m). The trail is long and hot during the heat of the day which indicates an early start on day 1. It takes the better part of one day to reach Anvil Camp at 10,400’/3170m. On day 2 we pack our camp and travel over Shepherd Pass where we turn south towards Palisade Basin where we establish a camp that puts us in position to climb both peaks on days 3 and 4. On day 5 we return back to our cars.

A pre dawn start on day 1 gave us comfortable temperatures. Our first challenge was to negotiate four crossings of Symmes Creek. The Sierra received record breaking snowfall this past winter and stormy weather lasted well into June. This deep snowpack is still melting and the creeks everywhere are swollen and running fast. Rocks and logs that are normally used to navigate across creeks are now covered in water. The creek crossings required wading and/or getting boots wet stepping on submerged rocks. The heavy snowfall also has contributed to the soil being fertile ground for wildflowers, which is one of the treats of visiting the Sierra during the summertime. The team made it to Anvil Camp in good style by midafternoon on July 1. Sitting in a grove of pine trees next to Shepherd Creek Anvil Camp provides a comfortable oasis from the hot approach we travel through to get here.

After packing up camp on day 2 the team hit snow within 20 minutes of leaving camp. Patches of snow got larger as we made our way above timberline en route to Shepherd Pass. Gaining the pass requires ascending a steep slope. The switchback trail was covered in snow requiring us to kick steps up the 35-40 degree slope. Warm temperatures allowed conditions to soften perfectly and the team did an excellent job of moving efficiently up the steep snowy terrain. Gaining the pass the team took a lunch break under clear skies and pleasant temperatures. Then we turned south towards Williamson Bowl and made camp on top of the plateau above the bowl. Foot baths and relaxation in the warm afternoon sun was a welcome treat as we continued a constant regimen of hydration that would help in the acclimatization process as we prepared for summit day on Mt. Williamson the following day. The team had a pizza dinner and a relaxing cup of hot tea before making final preparations and packing going to bed.

Climbing Mt. Williamson would require a pre dawn start. After breakfast the team set out navigating by headlamp. We dropped into Williamson Bowl, which requires losing over 500’/155m in elevation the traversed across the bowl weaving our way in between several lakes still covered in ice from winter. Alpine Gold and Polemonium wildflowers decorated our route in places where the snow had already melted. At the base of the West Face of Mt. Williamson the team donned helmets and climbing harnesses in preparation for the steeper alpine terrain we would ascend. The West Face led us into a chute that was mixed 3^rd class rock with some snow still present. Crampons and ice axes were used to ascend the snow. The route then leads to a short 4^th class impasse. Two short roped pitches of fun rock climbing led us to the summit plateau of Mt. Williamson. 20 minutes of easy boulder hopping and the team was sharing the summit of the second highest peak in California along the crest of the Sierra. After summit photos, some snack food, and some time to enjoy the spectacular view the team retraced their steps back to camp. Late afternoon clouds built up creating a short rain storm but in the aftermath of it the dry mountain air soaked up the water leaving our gear and the rocks surrounding camp free of water before we went to sleep.

On day 4 the next objective was Mt. Tyndall via the North Rib. This is a fun 3^rd class route up a rib of rock that tops out on a broad ridgeline that leads a short distance to the summit. Form our camp this route is much shorter than our climb the previous day. The team ate breakfast and got started after the sun rose. Scrambling up the North Rib the terrain gets incrementally steeper. Eventually the team roped up as the fall potential increased. Short pitching up the terrain the team moved efficiently to the broad ridgeline that ends at the summit of Mt. Tyndall. 15 minutes later the team was standing on the summit of this classic Sierra peak. The time spent on the summit was short lived as dark grey clouds built promising rainy conditions. After some quick photos on the summit block and adding our signatures to the summit register we quickly retraced our steps back to the North Rib and descended back the way we came. Thankfully light rain was only intermittent until we arrived back at camp. A solid thunderstorm ensued shortly after our arrival that left the air smelling fresh and clean. An hour after it had started the precipitation stopped and the team packed up camp and descended back to Anvil Camp. Soft snow on Shepherd Pass offered us the opportunity for an excellent glissade down the 35-40 degree slope on the east side of the pass. By the time we had dropped below Shepherd Pass we left the clouds behind at the Sierra crest and we walked under mostly blue skies to Anvil Camp in time for an afternoon bath in Shepherd Creek before dinner.

Day 5 was devoted to returning to the parking lot. In anticipation of hot weather in the lower elevations we left early. Cloud cover turned out to be a blessing keeping the temperatures cool enough to be pleasant. Back through the four crossings of Symmes Creek the team reached the cars in time to return to town for a celebration lunch before parting ways after another truly memorable adventure with a great team on two classic Sierra peaks!!

Thanks Demetria, Greg, and Ralph for another excellent trip. We enjoyed climbing with each of you and look forward to seeing you all back again soon!!

A few pictures are below. The rest of the photos can be found here: Williamson/Tyndall July 1-5, 2011

The with their rucksacks loaded and ready on day 1. From left to right: Greg Lukenbill, Ralph Buoncristiani, April Mayhew, Demetria Gianopolis, and Kurt Wedberg

April wading Symmes Creek with water up to her knees.

Greg and April on a creek crossing above Anvil Camp on Day 2.

Demetria and Greg high on the snowfield leading to Shepherd Pass.

Demetria, Greg, Kurt, and Ralph at Shepherd Pass 12,000'/3658m

April and Kurt during lunchtime on top of Shepherd Pass.

April and Ralph having a foot bath on a sunny warm Sierra afternoon.

Pizza is ready... Yum!!

First light on the approach to Mt. Williamson on day 3.

Polemonium on Mt. Williamson.

Roping up on Mt. Williamson's West Face.

April and Greg cramponing up firm snow on the West Face of Mt. Williamson.

Demetria climbing the final 4th class pitch on Mt. Williamson's West Face.

Ralph after topping out on the West Face.

April belaying Greg as he tops out on Mt. Williamson's West Face.

Summit photo on Mt. Williamson. From left to right: Kurt Wedberg, Ralph Buoncristiani, Greg Lukenbill, Demetria Gianopolis, and April Mayhew.

Magnificent light at the end of a short afternoon thunderstorm.

Morning light on Mt. Tyndall's East Face.

April and Ralph high on Mt. Tyndall's North Rib.

Demetria enjoying the climbing on the North Rib of Mt. Tyndall.

Ralph near the top of Mt. Tyndall's North Rib.

Ralph and April near the summit of Mt. Tyndall.

Demetria on the summit block of Mt. Tyndall.

April on Mt. Tyndall's summit block.

Kurt on top of Mt. Tyndall's summit block.

The team packed up and ready to head home!!

Tanzanian Orphanage Visit June 26, 2011

Posted on July 1, 2011 by Kurt Wedberg - 7 Summits, Africa, International Expeditions, Kilimanjaro, Mt. Kenya, Safari, SMI News

Steve and Sarah helped distribute dollies at the Kilimanjaro Orphanage.

As has become customary on our Africa trips we pay a visit to at least one orphanage. HIV and AIDS is still a very big issue in Africa and orphanages are overflowing with kids who’s parents have fallen victim to this epidemic. What little SMI can do to bring a little cheer into these kids lives we feel very humbled and honored to be able to do. Sarah MacDonald and Steve Schumm joined SMI guides April Mayhew and Kurt Wedberg for this visit. As we did with our visit in February we brought with us hand made dolls courtesy of Cindy Simon and a group of talented ladies who sew these to distribute to kids all over the world. A big thank you to Cindy and all the ladies who help make possible delivering these special dollies to the kids.

A few pictures are below. The entire photo gallery including some video can be found here:

Kilimanjaro Orphanage June 26, 2011