Author: Kurt Wedberg

Packed and ready for Mexico’s Volcanoes

Posted on November 5, 2009 by Kurt Wedberg - Iztaccihuatl, Mexico's Volcanoes, Orizaba

November marks our annual trip to climb Mexico’s Volcanoes. Our objective will be to climb two volcanoes in this beautiful country: Iztaccihuatl (17,158′) and El Pico de Orizaba (18,410′). We will fly to Mexico City tomorrow then on Saturday drive a couple hours outside of Mexico City to Popo/Ixta National Park where we plan to spend a little time acclimatizing before making our summit attempt on “Ixta”. Later next week we will travel south and east to Orizaba.

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Packing for Mexico's Volcanoes

Polemonium Peak via U Notch Couloir, October 10-12, 2009

Posted on October 14, 2009 by Kurt Wedberg - California 14ers, Ice Climbing, Palisades, Polemonium Peak, Sierra Nevada

The U Notch Couloir, like all the gully climbs in the Sierra that don’t melt off, is hard ice during the fall months. In the spring time Sierra gullies are filled with snow and make for excellent steep snow climbs. Over the course of the summer many melt freeze cycles turn the snow into ice. The U Notch had been “set up” for ice climbing back in July. By October we now had solid ice with a coating of fresh snow from a recent storm that was up to a foot deep in places. These varied conditions made for a challenging and rewarding climb.

After topping out on the U Notch we turned south to Polemonium Peak. Named after the famous Sierra flower that only blooms above 12,000′ in the Sierra, Polemonium Peak is one of five 14ers along the crest above the Palisade Glacier. At the U Notch we took off our crampons for the couple pitches of low 5th class rock climbing that lead to the summit of this very enjoyable climb.

This climb also would mark the final California 14er for Ben to climb.

Here are a few highlights. The entire photo gallery is here: http://kurtwedbergphotography.com/Sierra-Trips/2009-Sierra-Trips/Polemonium-Peak-October-2009/9942984_pYKqM/1/678654937_HwWqs

The U Notch Couloir in the center skyline rising above the Palisade Glacier

The U Notch Couloir on the right rising above the Palisade Glacier. The left couloir is called the V Notch.

Crossing the bergshrund where the Palisade Glacier separates from the cliff above creating this crevasse.

Ben climbing on the hard ice on pitch #2

Ben still looking strong near the top of the U Notch

Ben finishing up the first pitch of low 5th class rock climbing en route to the summit of Polemonium Peak

Ben near the summit of Polemonium Peak with Barrett Lake and the Palisade Basin far below.

Congratulations Ben on finishing all the California 14ers!!

Mt. Russell (14,086′) East Ridge, October 6-8, 2009

Posted on October 9, 2009 by Kurt Wedberg - California 14ers, Mt. Russell, Sierra Nevada

In the midst of the first cold snap of the fall season in the Sierra we returned to the East Ridge of Mt. Russell. Temperatures got so cold at higher elevations it left frost on the route. The weather remained clear and the route was enjoyable even with the frost providing an added difficulty with finding solid foot and hand holds.

Here are a couple photos of the trip. The entire photo gallery is here: http://kurtwedbergphotography.com/Sierra-Trips/2009-Sierra-Trips/Mt-Russell-East-Ridge-Oct-2009/9898120_JhPrj/1/674512393_nVPJR

The team ready to begin at Whitney Portal

Temperatures dipped well below freezing each evening leaving ice at every water source

Whitney Falls already looks thick enough to climb

Climbing on the East Ridge required negotiating careful foot and hand placements with the frost coating the rock

Pausing in the sun in the middle of the East Ridge

Summit success on a clear crisp fall day in the Sierra

Mt. Russell, East Ridge (14,086′) September 3-4, 2009

Posted on September 5, 2009 by Kurt Wedberg - California 14ers, Mt. Russell, Sierra Nevada

Pleasant temperatures and a forecast for thundershowers greeted us at the start of the Labor Day weekend. Mt. Russell continues to be overshadowed by its much more popular neighbor Mt. Whitney to the south. We saw very few people on the entire trip. The forecast dictated an early start and efficient climbing to get up to the summit and down safely before any potential storm hit. We hiked up the North Fork Canyon and set up camp at Upper Boyscout Lake. After dinner we hit the sack early with our rucksacks packed in preparation for a planned early wake up. The ascent went well as we moved efficiently up the route. As we descended off the summit storm clouds moved in and we quickly descended off the East Ridge down the Southwest Chute to lower ground. The storm dropped hail for a short time as it blew through. We descended back to Upper Boyscout Lake, packed up camp, and returned to Whitney Portal where we enjoyed bacon cheeseburgers from the Whitney Portal Store.

Below are some highlights. The entire photo gallery is here: http://kurtwedbergphotography.com/Sierra-Trips/2009-Sierra-Trips/Mt-Russell-East-Ridge-Sept-09/9520818_8AxeF/1/639989408_vF2qH

The team at Whitney Portal saddled up and ready to climb

The Ebersbacher Ledges

Creek crossing below Upper Boyscout Lake

The team ready to begin the ascent long before daybreak at camp at Upper Boyscout Lake

The team pausing for a photo in the middle of the East Ridge with Lake Tuleinyo behind

The team negotiating some of the 3rd class moves on the East Ridge

The team taking time out for a quick summit photo before descending ahead of the oncoming storm

Palisades Traverse August 30 – September 1, 2009 (Thunderbolt Peak – North Palisade Peak)

Posted on September 1, 2009 by Kurt Wedberg - California 14ers, North Palisade Peak, Starlight Peak, Thunderbolt Peak

Benjamin Bauman had been up all of California’s 14ers except a couple in the Palisades. He wanted to finish climbing them all in 2009. We climbed Thunderbolt Peak via Southwest Chute #1 and traversed south across the range and climbed Starlight Peak and North Palisades Peak then descended west via the U Notch back to our camp in Palisade Basin. That left one remaining peak on Ben’s list: Polemonium Peak which was scheduled for October to be climbed via the U Notch Couloir from the east side approached by crossing the Palisade Glacier.

The entire photo gallery from the trip is here: http://kurtwedbergphotography.com/Sierra-Trips/2009-Sierra-Trips/Palisades-Traverse-Aug-30-Sep/9487697_c6B3Y/1/637000473_3VxbU

Thunderbolt Peak, Starlight, and North Palisade Peak from our camp in Palisade Basin

Ben on the final 3rd class section of Thunderbolt Peak

Ben climbing the final summit block on Thunderbolt Peak

Ben topped out on Thunderbolt Peak!

Looking south along the crest of the Palisades from the summit of Thunderbolt Peak. The "milk bottle" that makes up Starlight Peak is silhoutted against the skyline on the right.

Descending to the notch in between Thunderbolt Peak and Starlight

Traversing on the way to Starlight

The Milk Bottle

Kurt on top of the Milk Bottle

Ben on the traverse towards North Palisade Peak

Ben on the summit of North Palisade Peak

Mt. Russell East Ridge (14,086′), August 12, 2009

Posted on August 13, 2009 by Kurt Wedberg - California 14ers, Mt. Russell, Sierra Nevada

On August 12 it was a pleasure to climb with Betsy on my favorite 3rd class route in the Sierra. Betsy is a lifelong visitor to the Whitney area but had never been up Mt. Russell. We met at the Whitney Portal Hostel and drove to Whitney Portal beginning our hike long before the sun came up. A beautiful, clear, and warm night made the approach to Upper Boyscout Lake a very enjoyable hike. We were treated to a gorgeous sunrise high above Upper Boyscout Lake. We were greeted with superb weather making for another enjoyable ascent of the East Ridge of Mt. Russell. After reaching the summit we descended down the southwest chute, over the Whitney/Russell Col, past Iceberg Lake, and down to Whitney Portal in the afternoon with plenty of time to enjoy bacon cheeseburgers at the Whitney Portal Store. The rest of the pictures are here: http://kurtwedbergphotography.com/Sierra-Trips/2009-Sierra-Trips/Mt-Russell-East-Ridge-August/9259727_M5WTg/1/618536412_RT9J4

Betsy above Upper Boyscout Lake before sunrise.

Sunrise on Mt. Whitney

The start of the East Ridge of Mt. Russell

Starting up the East Ridge of Mt. Russell

The narrowest part of the East Ridge of Mt. Russell

Betsy traversing on the East Ridge of Mt. Russell. Behind in the distance is Lake Tuleinyo, the highest lake in the Western Hemisphere.

Betsy pausing to enjoy the scenery on one of the "catwalks" on Mt. Russell's East Ridge

Betsy making moves on the high quality granite on Mt. Russell's East Ridge

Summit success on the East Ridge of Mt. Russell!

East Face of Mt. Whitney, August 9-10, 2009

Posted on August 9, 2009 by Kurt Wedberg - California 14ers, Mt. Whitney, Sierra Nevada

Andrew Lewicky from www.sierradescents.com and Eileen Bistrisky from Vancouver joined us for another memorable climb of the East Face of Mt. Whitney. In addition to Kurt’s photos Andy wore a helmet cam for the climb. Some of the video shot includes a great sequence on the Fresh Air Traverse, one of the funnest and most classic alpine climbing pitches in the country! A detailed write up of the climb can be viewed here: http://www.sierradescents.com/climbing/whitney/east-face.html. Video cam footage of the Fresh Air Traverse can be viewed here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvgzcz45arg.

Kurt’s photo’s of the climb are here: http://kurtwedbergphotography.com/Sierra-Trips/2009-Sierra-Trips/Mt-Whitney-East-Face-August-9/9238581_C9w8F/1/616670270_kfDZd

Kurt, Eileen, and Andy at Whitney Portal

Hiking over granite slabs above Lower Boyscout Lake.

Creek running over granite slabs below Upper Boyscout Lake.

East Face of Whitney from below Iceberg Lake

Sunrise from above Iceberg Lake

Moon over the East Face of Mt. Whitney

Eileen finishing the first pitch of the East Face of Whitney

Andy finishing pitch 4 at the top of the Washboards

Eileen high on the East Face of Whitney with Iceberg Lake behind.

Eileen & Andy at a belay stance

Eileen enjoying the exhilarating Fresh Air Traverse on Mt. Whitney's East Face.

Andy topping out above the Fresh Air Traverse

Eileen climbing above the Grand Staircase.

Summit success!! Left to right: Andy, Eileen, and Kurt

Norman Clyde Peak, NNE Face 13,851 feet July 31 – August 1, 2009

Posted on August 3, 2009 by Kurt Wedberg - Norman Clyde Peak, Palisades, Sierra Nevada

Norman Clyde Peak is named after the famous Sierra mountaineering pioneer. It is located just north of Middle Palisade Peak (14,040′). It has several high quality routes leading to its lofty summit and has one of the greatest views of any peak in the Sierra. Because this peak gets overlooked by many mountaineers who focus on the California 14ers Norman Clyde Peak remains a hidden gem and one of the all time classic peaks in the Sierra. The NNE Face is an intricate 3rd and 4th class ascent requiring good route finding skills and efficient climbing to make good time over its intricate route.

Sunrise of Norman Clyde Peak

NNE Ridge of Norman Clyde Peak. Our route on the NNE Face is on the right side of this ridge.

NNE Face of Norman Clyde Peak

Starting the 4th class on the upper NNE Face of Norman Clyde Peak

Greg high on Norman Clyde Peak

The summit ridge of Norman Clyde Peak

Greg on the summit ridge of Norman Clyde Peak

Greg Gerlach on the summit of Norman Clyde Peak on August 1, 2009

Kurt Wedberg on the summit of Norman Clyde Peak, August 1, 2009

View of the Palisades looking north from Norman Clyde Peak

East Face of Mt. Whitney (14,497′) July 29, 2009

Posted on July 30, 2009 by Kurt Wedberg - California 14ers, Mt. Whitney, Sierra Nevada

Our first climb of the East Face of Mt. Whitney in 2009 was a one day car to car ascent. Leaving Whitney Portal wearing headlamps we ascended the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek with the goal of reaching the base of the route at sunrise. We would then climb efficiently up the route leaving us plenty of daylight to return to Whitney Portal in time for burgers from the Whitney Portal Store.

Taking a quick rest break at Lower Boyscout Lake in the middle of the night.

Polemonium's in full bloom. They only grow above 12,000 feet in the Sierra.

Sunrise at the start of the East Face of Mt. Whitney

The Tower Traverse, the first pitch of the East Face route on Mt. Whitney.

Finishing pitch #4 at the top of the Washboards.

Pitch #5 above the Washboards with Iceberg Lake behind.

The Fresh Air Traverse on the East Face of Mt. Whitney

Climbing the Grand Staircase.

As we finished off the final 5th class pitch clouds were building around Mt. Whitney

A well earned summit photo on top of Mt. Whitney!

As clouds surrounded Keeler Needle immediately south of Mt. Whitney it began to hail. The summit is no place to be in a storm so it was time to descend.

Descending the upper section of the Mountaineers Route of Mt. Whitney.

A well earned bacon cheese burger from the Whitney Portal Store.

North Lake to South Lake via Lamarck Col July 23-24, 2009

Posted on July 25, 2009 by Kurt Wedberg - Sierra Nevada

Our guests on this trip were a group of fun loving adventurous guys from Orange County who wanted to do an overnight backpack trip and cover lots of mileage. After considering several trip options we settled on this loop trip. This route covered a lot of ground over two days. In addition to the 35+ miles our elevation gained and lost added to the challenge. Starting at 9250+ feet we hiked up to Lamarck Col at almost 13,000′ then descended down to the John Muir Trail where we ended up at Wanda Lake at 11,426′ 12 hours after we began. After a good dinner of pad thai with shrimp and vegetables we went to sleep prepared to wake early for day 2.

We woke early and were hiking before 7 AM. A short ascent got us to Muir Pass at 12,000 feet then a long very scenic drop in elevation over a 7 mile period as we headed south on the John Muir Trail. We turned off the JMT at the LeConte ranger station at 8900 feet. The next 6.6 miles was an ascent through Dusy Basin to Bishop Pass at 11,972′. Finally we descended the last 6 miles down the Bishop Pass trail to the South Lake trailhead at 9600+ feet.

The weather has isolated storm cells around but none of them ever got near us so we stayed dry the whole time. The scenery was gorgeous the whole time. The Sierra wildflowers were in full bloom. The scenery included an abundance of blue alpine lakes, meadows, pine trees, white granite spires, and patches of snow. A great time was had by all and we celebrated that evening in Bishop with a big dinner at Whiskey Creek.

Group photo at the North Lake trailhead.

The first of many creek crossings we would encounter over the next two days.

Gaining elevation on the way to Lamarck Col with North Lake in view.

At Lamarck Col and looking great!

Approaching Darwin Canyon after dropping off Lamarck Col

Traversing the unnamed lakes in Darwin Canyon

Taking a break below Darwin Bench on our cross country route headed towards the John Muir Trail. Evolution Valley below us on the right.

Creek crossing at the inlet to Evolution Lake at 10,800 feet

Wanda Lake at 11,426 feet. Our camp site at the end of day 1.

Wanda Lake shortly after sunrise.

The group rested and ready to start the long journey on day 2 from Wanda Lake to the South Lake trailhead.

The Muir Hut at Muir Pass at 12,000 feet. This hut was built as an emergency shelter for this very remote part of the John Muir Trail

Silhouette on top of the Muir Hut

Helen Lake as we descended from Muir Pass. The trail traverses along the right shoreline then begins the descent into LeConte Canyon.

Shooting Stars in bloom along the trail

The snow melted off late this year after the Sierra experienced an unusually stormy June. We encountered several snow patches that were still recently revealing creeks and waterfalls. Beautiful!