Author: Kurt Wedberg

Mt. Williamson (14,375′) / Mt. Tyndall (14,018′) June 29-July 3

Posted on July 7, 2009 by Kurt Wedberg - California 14ers, Mt. Tyndall, Mt. Williamson, Sierra Nevada

Exciting views of remote part of the Sierra and supurb route conditions greeted us on this annually scheduled SMI trip. We allow 5 days to tackle two of the Sierra’s most remote 14ers. Mt. Williamson at 14,375′ is the second highest peak in California and access to the peak is restricted past July 15. Mt. Tyndall lies outside of the closure area located closer to Shepherd Pass. The climbs are enjoyable ascents involving 3rd class climbing over excellent quality Sierra granite. Breathtaking views from the summits add to the majestic beauty of these peaks.

Back row left to right: Ed Saenz, Lori Nissen, Julie Harden, Reid Lidow, Cory Cline. Front row guides Sara Berghoff and Kurt Wedberg

Julie, Kurt, and Ed relaxing at camp before dinner.

Mt. Tyndall lit up by early morning sunlight as seen from our approach to Mt. Williamson

Beginning up the West Face of Mt. Williamson

Lori, Julie, and Ed enjoying climbing the steep snow high on the West Face of Mt. Williamson.

Ed and Julie on the 3rd class finish on the West Face of Mt. Williamson.

Summit photo on Mt. Williamson

North Rib of Mt. Tyndall from camp

Cory, Reid, Ed, and Sara beginning the ascent of the North Rib of Mt. Tyndall

Sara topping out on the North Rib of Mt. Tyndall

Ed on the summit block of Mt. Tyndall

Mt. Elbrus, Russia 18,510 feet, 5642m

Posted on July 7, 2009 by Kurt Wedberg - 7 Summits, Mt. Elbrus, Russia

We just returned from a wonderful two week trip to Russia. The group met in St. Petersburg where we took some time to tour the sites and see some of the many historical places in this beautiful city. We then flew south to Mineralnye Vody then drove into the Caucasas mountains only a stones throw from the border with Georgia. Here we spent some time doing acclimatization hikes in the picturesque Baksan Valley. We then moved up to a hut at approximately 14,000 feet where we continued acclimatizing while we took hikes as high as 15,800 feet.

On our first summit attempt we came up short stopping at 17,150 feet just before the saddle between the east and west summits of Mt. Elbrus. Weather turned stormy with increasing snow accumulation and fierce winds.

The following day was clear though and we managed to climb to the highest point on the European continent on a warm and windless day.

A few pictures showing some of the highlights of the trip are below. The entire photo gallery can be viewed here: http://kurtwedberg.smugmug.com/gallery/8678076_8HFF9/1/573243990_vrdww

L to R: Chuck Raper, Jim Wood, Debbie Wood, Connie Self, Kurt Wedberg

Peterhof Palace, St Petersburg

Church at Peterhof Palace, St. Petersburg

Hermitage Museum, St Petersburg

The most famous painting in the Hermitage Museum is Rembrandt's Return of the Prodigal Son

Knight armor on display at the Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg. The Hermitage Museum has so many artifacts that if a person viewed each piece for one minute it would take seven years to see everything. Furthermore, only 10% of everything in the museum's possession is on display!

Boarding a Russian airliner bound for Mineralnye Vody

The Mt. Elbrus region is right next to the border with Georgia

Acclimatization hike on Cheget Mtn in the Baksan Valley

A beautiful waterfall we passed during an acclimatization hike

Terskol Glacier on the flanks of Mt. Elbrus

Turskol Glacier on the flanks of Mt. Elbrus

The group taking a break above the Turskol Valley on the flanks of Mt. Elbrus

Acclimatization hike on Mt. ElbrusThe Diesel Hut at approximately 14,000 feet on Mt. Elbrus

The Diesel Hut at approximately 14,000 feet on the flanks of Mt. Elbrus

Mt. Sill, Apex Couloir 14,153′, 4314m

Posted on May 25, 2009 by Kurt Wedberg - California 14ers, Mt. Sill, Palisades, Sierra Nevada

March 23-25, 2009

We were treated to clear weather in the Sierra backcountry over Memorial Day weekend this year. Chuck Raper, Patricia Twomey, and Dustin Wunderlich joined guides Rick Poedtke and Kurt Wedberg for a classic climb in the Palisades region of the Sierra.

Mt. Sill is one of the few Sierra peaks that was named by the indigenous Piaute indians who inhabited the Owens Valley. Their name for it was “Nee-na-mee-she” which is translated “Guardian of the Valley”. Today it is a classic 14er in Californa and the view from its summit is considered one of the finest in the entire Sierra.

Our route was the Apex Couloir on Mt. Sill. This route is also called the “North Couloir” but since there are so many couloirs that go by that name I prefer calling it the Apex Couloir. The snow conditions remain excellent in the Palisades right now. We were treated to four pitches of climbing at 40 – 45 degrees. We then exited the route to the right where we climbed a pitch of 3rd to low 5th class rock that led to one more pitch of 50+ degree snow. One final 4th class pitch led to the ridgeline on Mt. Sill where we scrambled up to the summit.

Here are a few pictures. The entire gallery can be viewed here: http://kurtwedberg.smugmug.com/gallery/8329693_LrcYi/1/545818744_wQKSG

The Palisade Glacier with Mt. Sill on the left.

Left to right: Rick Poedtke, Chuck Raper, Patricia Twomey, Dustin Wunderlich, Kurt Wedberg

Chuck and Dusty on the 3rd pitch of the Apex Couloir.

Chuck and Dusty at the belay ledge at the top of the 4th pitch.

Chuck and Dusty climbing near the top of the 5th pitch.

Chuck and Dusty nearing the top of the 6th pitch.

Chuck and Dusty at the belay station at the top of the 6th pitch.

Chuck and Dusty rock climbing on pitch 7.

Chuck and Dusty nearing the classic summit of Mt. Sill with a breathtaking view of the Sierra all around. It is easy to see why this peak is known for offering one of the finest views in the Sierra!

High five on the summit of Mt. Sill!

Summit photo. Left to right: Dustin Wunderlich, Kurt Wedberg, Chuck Raper.

Level 1 Avalanche Course

Posted on May 25, 2009 by Kurt Wedberg - Avalanche Course, Sierra Nevada

May 18-20, 2009

By special request we organized a late season Level 1 Avalanche Course. As springtime is well under way here in the Eastern Sierra the warming temperatures and increasingly longer days guide people’s thoughts towards summertime activities. Up in the high country there is still lots of snow and avalanches are still a very real danger. It is easy to get complacent during this time of year even though the danger is still there.

A few pictures are below. The rest of the photo gallery can be viewed here: http://kurtwedberg.smugmug.com/gallery/8291502_bRHrW/1/542926864_dNqEr

View of the High Sierra at the South Lake Trailhead. Theres still a lot of snow in the high country!

Practicing a search for a buried person withh a transceiver, probe, and shovel.

Testing for reactive layers in the snowpack using a shovel compression test.

Examining snow crystals through a magnifying glass.

"Skinning" up Old Man's Bowl near Mt. Morrison where we will conduct some tests on the snowpack.

The reward for climbing up a mountain is making turns in the untracked snow!

Mt. Whitney, Mountaineer’s Route 14,497′, 4418m

Posted on May 19, 2009 by Kurt Wedberg - California 14ers, Mt. Whitney, Sierra Nevada

May 14-17, 2009

We had a great climb of Mt. Whitney via the Mountaineer’s Route. We were treated to warm, clear, and calm weather for the entire trip. To allow for plenty of acclimatization and some training on techniques we planned a 4-day trip. There was plenty of snow from Iceberg Lake and higher but it is melting fast in the Sierra right now.

The entire photo gallery is here: http://kurtwedberg.smugmug.com/gallery/8241408_UdZae/1/539107184_oLihd

Mt. Whitney, Mountaineer's Route

John Rogitz, Bill Simon, Ralph Buoncristiani, and Michael Tate geared up and ready for the climb!

Ralph, Bill, and John on the last pitch of the Mountaineer's Route

Ralph, Kurt, John, and Bill on the summit of Mt. Whitney

Mike, Ralph, and Bill getting settled in the tent

North Palisade Peak, Clyde Couloir

Posted on May 18, 2009 by Kurt Wedberg - California 14ers, North Palisade Peak, Sierra Nevada

North Palisade Peak, Clyde Couloir

Chuck Raper high in the Clyde Couloir

May 11-13, 2009

Our first trip into the Palisades this year was to climb the Clyde Couloir with Chuck Raper. The weather was clear with high winds. The route is in great shape at the moment. The bergshrund on the Palisade Glacier is easily crossed and the current snow conditions in the chute are supurb.

The entire photo gallery is here: http://kurtwedberg.smugmug.com/gallery/8202780_q54pC/1/535974139_p4ykZ

Mt. Langley, NE Couloir 14,042′, 4280m

Posted on May 18, 2009 by Kurt Wedberg - California 14ers, Mt. Langley, Sierra Nevada

Mt. Langley, NE Couloir

Rick & Brian on the NE Couloir of Mt. Langley

Rick & Brian on the summit of Mt. Langley

May 1-3, 2009

Brian Bentrott, Rick Putnam, and Kurt Wedberg climbed the NE Couloir of Mt. Langley. This was a training climb for Rick’s upcoming Mt. McKinley climb in June. Under a windy and stormy day we climbed the 40+ degree chute to the summit of Mt. Langley.

The entire photo gallery is here: http://kurtwedberg.smugmug.com/gallery/8095299_4rxz8/1/527546726_5Nhjg

Author: Kurt Wedberg

Mt. Williamson (14,375′) / Mt. Tyndall (14,018′) June 29-July 3

Mt. Elbrus, Russia 18,510 feet, 5642m

Mt. Sill, Apex Couloir 14,153′, 4314m

Level 1 Avalanche Course

Mt. Whitney, Mountaineer’s Route 14,497′, 4418m

North Palisade Peak, Clyde Couloir

Mt. Langley, NE Couloir 14,042′, 4280m

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