Category: 7 Summits

Mt. McKinley Wrap Up

From left to right: Gary Talcott, Matt McDonough, Tom Hargis, Dan Corn, Bill Simon, Finn Wentworth, Kurt Wedberg, and Drew Daly at the SE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier in Denali National Park.

This is a recap of a Mt. McKinley expedition that SMI founder Kurt Wedberg was a part of.  A few pictures are below.  The entire photo gallery can be found here:  http://www.kurtwedbergphotography.com/Alaska/Mt-McKinley-May-2011/17141713_rx4KXV

On May 1 SMI guide Kurt Wedberg flew to Alaska to be a part of an expedition to Mt. McKinley’s classic West Buttress Route.  The team included Finn Wentworth, Matt McDonough, and long time friend of SMI Bill Simon.  The guide team included Tom Hargis, Gary Talcott, Dan Corn, and Drew Daly.  Logistical support was courtesy of Alaska Mountaineering School who is an authorized concessionaire in Denali National Park.

After flying in to Anchorage the team drove to the town of Talkeetna, which is the jumping off point for expeditions into the Alaska Range.  Talkeetna translated from the native language means “river of plenty” and is located where the Chulitna, Susitna, and Talkeetna rivers converge.  Having less than 1000 year round residents this town is a destination for mountaineers, salmon fisherman, rafters, and tourists taking scenic flights over the Alaska Range.  Here in Talkeetna we organized our equipment and took care of pre trip logistics including meeting with the National Park Service for the briefing they give all teams before starting their expeditions.

Main Street of Talkeetna consisting of a few souvenir shops, eateries, gas station, and a couple general stores.

20 bags laid out for 20 days worth of food.

Bill organizing personal gear to be used on the expedition.

Bill and Finn at the National Park Service briefing.

On May 4 the team took all their equipment to Talkeetna Air Taxi and loaded into two de Havilland Beaver airplanes equipped with skis for the 45 minute flight into the Alaska Range where they landed on the SE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier at 7200’/2195m.

Matt and Bill in the Beaver ready to fly.

The flight into Base Camp offers many dramatic views of the peaks in the Alaska Range. Scenic flights of this range are popular among the many tourists that visit this area.

View of the lower Kahiltna Glacier during the flight to base camp.

Bill at Base Camp with the landing strip on the SE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier on the left. Behind is Mt. Foraker. At 17,400'/5304m it is the 6th highest mountain in North America rising over 10,000'/3048m above Kahiltna Base Camp.

At Base Camp the team set up camp and organized gear and supplies for the expedition.  A cache was left here with 3 days worth of food and fuel for the return trip in case weather caused a delay in the planes picking us up.  On May 5 we loaded up rucksacks and sleds with 20 days worth of food and fuel plus personal gear and clothing.  We descended the SE Fork to 6800’/2073m then turned north up the Kahiltna Glacier.  This glacier is 33 miles/53km long and over 1 mile/1.6km wide in places.  On either side of the glacier rise peaks that reach several thousand feet above.  Climbers are dwarfed to little black dots in an immense landscape which gives a sense of awe and humility in this dramatic scenery.  The team traveled to 7800’/2377m where Camp 1 was established.

Mt. McKinley as seen from Base Camp.

May 5: Bill and Finn geared up and ready to start the journey from Base Camp.

Bill and Matt with sleds in tow in the middle of the massive Kahiltna Glacier.

Finn getting ready to take a rest break next to Matt (seated left) on the Kahiltna Glacier.

Gary Talcott enjoying the days walk along the Kahiltna Glacier.

Tom Hargis at a carefully chosen safe spot for a rest break on the Kahiltna Glacier.

After probing out a safe zone on the glacier platforms were leveled to set up tents at Camp 1 at 7800'/2377m.

Camp 1 at 7800'/2377m.

Over the next couple of days the team would make a load carry to cache gear at 9900’/3018m, took a rest day, moved to Camp 2 at 9900’/3018m, moved to Camp 3 at 11,000’/3353m, and retrieved our cache at Camp 2.

Matt and Kurt at Camp 2. Behind in the distance is Mt. Hunter 14,570'/4441m.

Bill and Matt checking out the scenery and the route above en route to Camp 3. Behind Matt is Tom Hargis and Finn Wentworth.

Camp 3 at 11,000'/3353m. A warm day offering a great opportunity to dry out gear.

Happy Birthday Matt!

Matt and Tom in the kitchen tent at 11,000'/3353m

Bill, Kurt, and Finn at Camp 3.

From Camp 3 the terrain begins to steepen and the views continue to get more dramatic.  The next step in the expedition is to carry gear to a cache at 13,500’/4115m and return to Camp 3 to sleep.  Then we move to Camp 4 at 14,200’/4328m.  The following day we make a short trip with empty packs to retrieve our cache.  From Camp 3 we switch from snowshoes to crampons and swap ski poles for ice axes.  The terrain getting to our cache site involves climbing Motorcycle Hill (35+ degrees), Squirrel Hill (35+ degrees), then we traverse across the Polo Fields, which leads us to the final hill below Windy Corner at 13,300’/4054m.  We were treated to the most clear days of the expedition during these next few days.  As far as the eye can see to the north we saw views of the Alaskan tundra. Decorating our view in every other direction we saw countless peaks in the Alaska Range.  Breathtaking scenery, calm winds, and clear skies made for some unforgettable days of climbing!

View of Mt. Foraker (left) and Kahiltna Dome from Camp 3.

Bill and crew climbing Squirrel Hill with the Peters Glacier and the Alaskan tundra in the background.

Gary Talcott topping out on Squirrel Hill.

Bill psyched to be topping out on Windy Corner on a clear windless day!

Traversing Windy Corner

The team filling our cache site at 13,500'/4115m.

Kurt on the descent from Windy Corner with an empty pack.

Matt and Bill descending Motorcycle Hill after our carry day.

Bill and Matt en route to Camp 4.

Finn, Bill, and Matt enjoying dinner and the scenery at Camp 4 14,200'/4328m.

Camp 4 with the Orient Express Couloir and West Rib behind.

The team stacking blocks to make walls around our camp.

The team at Camp 4 after building walls for our camp. This camp offers an excellent view of Mt. Foraker behind.

Kurt and Bill enjoying a hot drink in their tent.

Finn and Bill in the dining tent.

After being on the mountain for two weeks the team was acclimatizing well and getting ready to move to our high camp at 17,200’/5243m.  Winds began to increase and we then learned of impending weather.  High winds were forecast to reach over 70mph on the summit and predicted to last for several days.  This didn’t bode well for a safe attempt at reaching the summit.  The team discussed the situation and decided to descend rather than trying to wait it out.

This expedition was a great success on many levels.  The team stayed safe which is the first goal on all our trips.  Everybody also learned a lot about mountaineering and about themselves.  We also all returned friends and with a new perspective on the world around us.  Whether or not team members decide to return to give Mt. McKinley another attempt this was definitely a great adventure and another trip of a lifetime.  Thanks everybody for a great trip!

Thanks everybody for a great trip!

Mt. McKinley Update May 19

The entire team is safely off the mountain having all flown off of the SE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier yesterday.  The expedition reached a high point of 15,500′ before turning around.  Amid several more days of high winds in the forecast that were projected to reach 70+mph and dwindling food supplies the team decided it was best to turn back.

The expedition was a success on many levels.  Above all else the entire team stayed safe and returned without a single injury.  Everybody also learned a a lot about mountaineering and about themselves.  Everybody remained friends and the adventures shared will only strengthen those bonds.

More news will be coming soon complete with pictures of another amazing adventure.  Thank you to everybody for their thoughts and prayers during our expedition!!

May 11, 2011 – Mt. McKinley Update

We received a satellite phone call from Kurt updating us on the team’s progress on Mt. McKinley.  Here’s the “quick and dirty” from Kurt at 11,000 feet!

The team flew onto the Southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier on May 4th, arriving at 7200’ (2195m).  On May 5th, they moved up to camp at 7800’ (2375m), on May 7th they made it up to 9900’ (3018m), and on May 10th they reached 11,000’ (3353m).  The team continued to make progress despite high winds holding them up.

The team’s plan as of the 11th was to make a cache at 13,500’ (4115m) on May 12th, with hopes of reaching 14,200’ (4328m) via the West Buttress today, May 14th!

Kurt noted that the weather has been unusually cold, with a high of -35 degrees at 17,000’ the other day!  Despite the cold weather and high winds, the team is in good spirits.  Everyone on the team is doing very well and enjoying the experience.

A recovery and rescue were made on Mt. McKinley earlier this week, and while none of our team members were part of this effort, our thoughts go out to all those involved.

Kurt says that everyone at home is missed and thanks all of you for the support you send toward SMI.  We look forward to hearing from Kurt again in a few days!

Mt. Kenya, February 27 – March 4, 2011

Following a successful and very emotional climb of Kilimanjaro SMI guides April Mayhew and Kurt Wedberg traveled to the country of Kenya for a climb of the peak that bears it’s country’s name.  Mt. Kenya is the second highest mountain on the African continent and one that sees a small fraction of the attention that Kilimanjaro receives.  The mountain is actually the crater rim of an ancient volcano.  It has three summits named Batian, Nelion, and Point Lenana.  While Point Lenana requires stamina to reach its summit, Batian and Nelion require rock climbing skills to reach their pinnacles.  April and Kurt set out on an adventure to try and reach the summit of both of these peaks.

From Nairobi we traveled 4+ hours to to the entrance to Mt. Kenya National Park.

Kurt and April at the Mt. Kenya park gate at 2400m, 7874'

We then set out on a 3-day trek that put us in striking distance of a summit attempt.  On February 27 we began at the park gate ascending through a jungle environment rich with wildflowers, bamboo, exotic bird species, and monkeys.  A 9km, 5.6 mile trek brought us to the Met Station Hut at 3048m, 10,000′.

April and local guide Charles at the start of our trek into Mt. Kenya National Park.

Met Station camp at 10,000' / 3048m in Mt. Kenya National Park. This small lodge has a couple small but clean huts that make for a comfortable place to spend the night in the jungle.

Kurt and April having an afternoon picnic on the porch of the Met Station hut on Mt. Kenya.

Sykes monkey near the Met Station hut.

A dik dik near Met Station. Dik diks are smallest member of the antelope family and prefer the thick foliage of the jungle for protection.

On February 28 our trek ascended above the jungle where the scenery opened up offering breathtaking vistas that were not only beautiful but reminded us of how remote this destination is.  Today we were treated to the sites of many exotic plants that lined our trail and we got some of our first views of Mt. Kenya.  After 5 hours of hiking we arrived at MacKinder’s Camp at 4200m, 13,779′.

The Torch Lily aka Red Hot Poker is one of many exotic wildflowers seen on Mt. Kenya.

Gladiola in bloom on Mt. Kenya.

April arriving above the jungle canopy in Mt. Kenya National Park.

Lobilia plant in bloom at 3350m/11,000' on Mt. Kenya.

Three types of lobilia plants on Mt. Kenya.

Giant Senacio trees provide an exotic foreground as we got some of our first views of Mt. Kenya.

A rock hyrax looks out from its perch at 4260m/14,000'.

Giant Senacio trees decorating the hillside above MacKinder's Camp at 4260m/ 14,000'.

On day 3 we would move up above timberline where plants grow into the alpine environment.  Our goal was the Austrian Hut at 4730m/15,518′.  This hut will serve as our base of operations for making an attempt on Mt. Kenya.  After being on Kilimanjaro for seven days we felt well acclimated.  A move to the Autrian Hut would feel great and put us in good position to prepare for a summit attempt.

April at 4570m/15,000' en route to the Austrian Hut. The Lewis Glacier is in the distance with its turquoise glacial fed lake below.

Kurt sorting gear inside the Austrian Hut.

After getting settled in the Austrian Hut we sorted gear then took a hike to the base of our route.  Reaching our route would require crossing the Lewis Glacier then ascending an open talus slope to the start of the route.  The Lewis Glacier has been receding like many glaciers worldwide.  In the process of recession it has revealed layers of ice that are relatively old.  There are not many crevasses on the Lewis Glacier but the conditions warranted having a good sharp set of crampons and an ice axe.  Along with doing a reconnaissance mission we would also carry gear to the base of the route allowing us to go fast and light when we would approach the route on the day we planned to climb it.

Mt. Kenya from the Austrian Hut.

April crossing the Lewis Glacier during a reconnaissance hike to the base of the route.

April at the base of Mt. Kenya where our route begins.

With our reconnaissance mission complete we returned to the Austrian Hut.  After some weather issues and one false start we would attempt the summit on March 3.  Waking at dawn we left the Austrian Hut, traversed across the Lewis Glacier, and roped up for the climb.

April on lead traversing out on the first roped pitch of the climb.

April enjoying the view after 8 pitches of climbing.

After 10 pitches the climb moved back into the shade. We put on more clothing layers and April takes off on lead at pitch 11.

April leading a chimney on pitch 13.

April topping out onto a ridge line after pitch 15.

It felt great to be back in the sun for the last few pitches of the climb!

April on lead picking her route up pitch 17.

April on lead stemming out over one of the last crux moves of the climb.

With easier climbing above April topping out on the route.

Summit photo on Mt. Kenya.

With the climb complete we returned back to the Austrian Hut and descended out the Teleki Valley to see some new scenery on Mt. Kenya.

Looking back at the north side of Mt. Kenya.

Morning camp on the final day of the trip offering views of the Mt. Kenya massif behind.

One of the many spectacular views on the trip out.

Reflecting back on a great few days. A smile is worth a thousand words!

Orphanage Visit February 26, 2011

Dollies sewn by Cindy Simon and friends ready to be sent to kids overseas.

After a very successful and emotional climb of Kilimanjaro the ladies flew to Zanzibar Island.  SMI guides April Mayhew and Kurt Wedberg had a day in Moshi to relax before traveling to Kenya for an attempt at climbing Mt. Kenya.  In addition to relaxing they paid a visit to a local orphanage in Moshi.  Orphaned children is a growing problem in Africa where Aids and other diseases takes its toll on the parents of families.  This orphanage houses 35 kids ranging from 4-12 years old.

April and Kurt brought with them gifts of hand made sewn dolls.  These dolls were the creation of Cindy Simon and a team of ladies in the LA area.  Cindy’s husband Bill is a regular client of SMI.  Bill and Cindy climbed Kilimanjaro with SMI in February 2010.  Cindy and her friends sew these dolls for orphans around the world.  They have sent over 600 dolls to children in Haiti.

Here are a few pictures of the event.  The entire photo gallery is here:  http://www.kurtwedbergphotography.com/International-Expeditions/Africa/Orphanage-in-Moshi/16100728_Fhh7b

SMI guide April giving dollies to the orphans.

The kids pose for a picture with their new dollies.

A child at the orphanage happy with her new dolly.

Kids playing with their new dollies at the orphanage.

Kilimanjaro – Climb For Freedom February 18-24, 2011

This is a day by day synopsis of a very memorable climb of Kilimanjaro.  There are a few pictures highlighting parts of this trip.  The entire photo gallery can be found here:  http://www.kurtwedbergphotography.com/International-Expeditions/Africa/Kilimanjaro-February-17-24/16126190_ucYW8

This climb was the inspiration of Juliet Mayhew who founded Climb 4 Freedom (www.climb4freedom.org) to raise money and awareness for child trafficking worldwide.  The group was made up of 15 ladies, 14 of whom are mothers.  Their slogan is Ordinary Women Doing Extraordinary Things.

These ladies are anything but ordinary.  This group of highly motivated, loving, caring and very pretty ladies touched the hearts of everybody fortunate enough to come into contact with them during our trip.  This is the first post in a day by day story of our climb.

SMI has been guiding climbs on Kilimanjaro since 1996.  We have never missed reaching the summit of this beautiful peak and our safety record is impeccable.  The age of our clients who have reached the summit ranges between 10 and 73.  The breadth of experience of our guides for this climb included 80+ high altitude expeditions on six continents.  Fresh off of two back to back expeditions to Aconcagua SMI guides April Mayhew, Chris Werner, and Kurt Wedberg arrived in Africa motivated and ready to lead this team on a trip of a lifetime.  Our goals as always were to keep safety as the highest priority, reach the summit, and have a lot of fun along the way.

The group gathered in Moshi, Tanzania located at the base of Kilimanjaro on February 16, 2011.  13 members of the team live in the UK and two are from Colorado.  SMI guides April, Chris, and Kurt live in California.  Chris’s girlfriend Heidi Hauenstein also joined us not wanting to miss out on such a memorable climb.  This would make our group total 19 people.  After breakfast we spent the morning taking a leisurely walk near our hotel on the outskirts of Moshi.  We passed by rice fields and explored the forest where we viewed a variety of colorful African wildflowers, bird species, and the black and white colobus monkey’s living in the trees.

The team starting our hike in the forest near Moshi, Tanzania.

Front to back: Basha, Lale, Hayley, Sarah, Juliet, and Helen walking through local rice fields in Moshi.

For lunch we visited the home of the head of our local Chagga staff God Listen.  “Goddy’s” wife prepared for us a traditional Chagga lunch of banana soup cooked over an open fire.  Kilimanjaro National Park requires visiting climbers to hire local porters when making ascents of this mountain.  When Hans Meyer made the first ascent of Kilimanjaro in 1889 he hired 90 porters.  They all came from the Chagga tribe who settled at the base of Kilimanjaro centuries ago and live there to this day.  SMI maintains this rich tradition with our entire staff being of Chagga descent.  We have built a great relationship with them and they have become an integral part of the success of our programs.  Smiling, hardworking, and friendly we keep a full staff of porters, cooks, and assistant guides to help facilitate a smooth and well organized climb.

After lunch we left time for an afternoon coffee along with shopping in Moshi before returning to our hotel to pack our gear in preparation for the start of our climb the following morning.

February 18

Reports had swirled around Moshi about the stormy conditions on Kilimanjaro.  Kilimanjaro is the only place in the world where it is possible to pass through 5 temperate zones in five days starting in a jungle and ending in an alpine environment.  The jungle zones had been inundated with rain for many days creating slippery muddy conditions on the trails.  Above 4600m, 15,100’ the mountain was decorated with a fresh blanket of snow that left us wondering what conditions would be by the time we arrived at that height in a few days.  Snow equipment such as ice axes and crampons are not normally needed on Kilimanjaro and are not included on the SMI equipment list.  Just the same we packed two ice axes just in case they would be helpful to in chopping steps in the snow above.

Each climber carries a rucksack with lunch, water, and clothing needed for each day’s hike.  We also prepare individual duffle bags containing the rest of the equipment each person needs for the climb including sleeping bags, pads, and extra clothing along with other essentials.  A porter will carry these duffle bags.

After breakfast the team loaded into a bus hired to bring us to the trailhead.  BUT, before we could arrive at the trailhead we needed to make a very important stop for a morning cappuccino.  With the group having savored their last fresh coffee in a week we then were fully prepared to continue to the trailhead and begin our climb.

February 18: The team at the trailhead of the Machame Route on Kilimanjaro.

It wouldn’t be long before the sound of rain began hitting the jungle canopy above.  Anticipating this we had previously lined our rucksacks and duffle bags with plastic bags to keep our gear dry.  The attire of choice would be rain jackets with shorts in the warm wet jungle environment.  The ladies did extremely well adapting to the conditions and kept smiles on their faces throughout.  The torrential rain lasted about two hours before relenting.  The leaves high on the jungle canopy dripped with the cleansing freshly fallen rain for the rest of the five hour hike to Camp 1 at 2829m, 9281’.

The team enjoying evening hot drinks at Camp 1.

Our staff prepared hot water and a fabulous meal for the team.  As we crawled into our tents that evening the clouds had completely disappeared revealing a blanket of stars above the jungle canopy and our first glimpse of the high flanks of Kilimanjaro.  We were lulled to sleep by the sound of birds in the trees above.

After dinner the clouds cleared away revealing a star filled sky and our first glimpse of Kilimanjaro peeking through the jungle canopy.

February 19

Our goal today was Camp 2 on the Shira Plateau  at 3837m, 12,588’.  This hike would lead us out of the jungle onto the Moorland.  In anticipation of possible stormy weather we got an early start in hopes of getting to camp ahead of impending rain.  Moving higher the jungle canopy gave way to shorter vegetation revealing great views of Kilimanjaro.  Climbing higher the team worked on honing their pressure breathing and rest stepping techniques that will be crucial to our success in reaching the summit.  The weather became cloudy but never threatened rain.  With the sun obscured by clouds the cool temperatures made for perfect hiking weather.  With views of the mountain in front of us and a nice backdrop of the jungle below we made a leisurely ascent onto the Shira Plateau.  We arrived at camp about 6 hours after leaving.

Ariadna, Cathy, Tahous, Sarah, Hayley, and Helen posing underneath a waterfall along the trail to the Siura Plateau.

This is high enough elevation that we start looking for the first signs of altitude sickness and it was no surprise when a couple team members started showing the effects of exertion in the thinner air.  Common symptoms include headaches, loss of appetite, lethargy, nausea, and difficulty sleeping.  The root of these problems stems from lack of oxygen and dehydration.  Therefore the first lines of defense are to increase water intake and breath harder.  We also would not be sleeping much higher in elevation over the next couple of nights.

The team took a short afternoon hike to the nearby Shira Cave to stretch our legs and enjoy the scenery.  This is also a great way to fight off feelings of lethargy.

At the Shira Cave on the afternoon of February 19. Front row from left to right: April, Tahous, Tais, Nicole, Juliet, and Kurt. Back row: Ariadna, Lale, Stephanie, Sarah, Vanessa, Hayley, Helen, Basha, and God Listen

The sunset coloring a thin layer of clouds over Kilimanjaro on the evening of February 19.

Chris and Heidi enjoying the view of the evening moon over the African plains from Shira Camp on February 19.

February 20

The team woke to a beautiful sunrise.  The view from the Shira Plateau includes Kilimanjaro’s satellite peak Mt. Meru that rises out of the African plains to the west.  Most of the team member’s altitude symptoms had gone away overnight but Nicole in particular was still feeling it.  Chris had checked on her during the night and today Kurt decided to hike with her at a comfortable pace.  Even if this pace would be slower than the rest of the team we had plenty of guide staff to help the others and this is why we staff our trips so well.  April and Chris made sure to stay with the group and help out any of the others along with members from our Chagga staff.

The team packed and ready for today's hike to Barranco Camp.

The team ascending out of the Shira Plateau en route to Barranco Camp.

The goal today is Barranco Camp at 3940m, 12,926’.  Our hike today takes us under the Western Breach Wall of Kilimanjaro.  As it gains elevation we lose vegetation as the terrain turns into a moonscape decorated by volcanic rocks.   Along the way we would be climbing to Lava Tower at 4630m, 15,190’, then drop elevation down to our camp.  This is a very important day in our acclimatization schedule.  There is no better way to acclimate to high altitude than to climb high then sleep low.  This would also be a longer day of walking today.  The team was prepared for a 8-9 hour walk today that would represent the longest and most physically demanding day we would have until summit day.  This would also be the highest elevation we would attain until our summit attempt.

Nicole and Hayley on the trail.

We paced the team carefully as we moved up in altitude.  Slow and steady progress is the most efficient way to tackle long distances at increasingly higher elevation.   The team did an excellent job as they continued to hone their rest step and pressure breathing techniques.  Everybody ate and drank well at breaks and did an excellent job of taking care of themselves and looking out after each other.  The team moved efficiently up to Lava Tower arriving there at 1:30 in time for a good lunch break.  Nicole also demonstrated exceptional will and determination that was exemplary of this entire team.  With a sensitive stomach that made it difficult to keep food down she sipped water in small quantities and ate what she could (3 almonds over the course of the day!) and managed to keep pace with the rest of the group.  All the while she received encouragement from fellow team members.

Team members descending from Lava Tower at 15,100', 4630m.

The team passing by a Giant Senacio tree en route to Barranco Camp.

The team next to several Giant Senacio trees.

After lunch the team continued on descending to Barranco Camp arriving at 5pm 8 hours after starting out.  As our route neared camp we came upon the Giant Senacio Trees that decorate Kilimanjaro in wetter regions of this elevation.  A stop here for a group picture was of course mandatory before a happy group made the last 15 minute stroll into camp.  An excellent effort was displayed by everybody today making big steps towards being set up for our summit attempt now 3 days away.

Chris next to a Giant Senacio tree.

Evening light on Kilimanjaro's Western Breach Wall from Barranco Camp 3940m, 12,926'

February 21

Over the next two days our goal will be to get to high camp.  While it is possible to get there in one long day we choose to divide this into two shorter days.  This offers more opportunity for acclimatization in addition to giving anybody ailing a chance to recover.  Today’s hike then takes us up the infamous Barranco Wall to over 4230m, 14,110’.  Barranco Wall is mostly a switchbacking hike with a couple places that require climbers to scramble up or down a couple short 3-6m, 10-20’ sections using hands and feet in spots.  These sections never pose a problem for us.  We take the time to help folks with their balance and footwork, spot them from below, and offer a hand from above.  Predictably the team surmounted the Barranco Wall in fine style.

The team starting up Barranco Wall.

A porter carrying a load up the Barranco Wall.

Nicole surmounting an impasse on the Barranco Wall getting a spot from April below.

The team near the top of the Barranco Wall

Basha and Juliet expressing the sheer joy of being on Kilimanjaro.

With views of the Heim, Kersten, and Redmen glaciers above to our left our route traversed the mountain going up and down a couple valleys and hillsides.  Rounding a corner we then looked across to the end of today’s hike, Karanga Camp at 3930m, 12893’.  Karanga is a Swahili word that means peanut.  There are however no peanuts growing in the valley at this elevation.  We first descended into Karanga Valley then climbed up the other side to finish off today’s hike.  This last hill is steep but by now the group has learned so well the finer points of climbing at high altitude that they all did an excellent job of tackling this hill in fine style.

Nicole, Moshi, Tais, Helen, and Stephanie en route to Karanga Camp.

The team arrives at Karanga Camp at 3930m, 12,893'

This hike is a short one with the group doing it in a little over 4 hours.  This left us with the afternoon free to rest, hydrate, and socialize.  One of the favorite activities of this day on our trips is to play cards with our Chagga staff.  Many of them don’t speak much English making interaction with them limited.  Playing cards is one way we can engage them.  The game is called “cardi” or “last card”.  Played with a normal deck of cards it is similar to Uno.  It is always a very animated and fun time for all.

Kilimanjaro from Karanga Camp.

Vanessa holding her own during a big game of "last card" with some of our Chagga staff: Rogati, Umbeni, Moshi, and God Listen.

Left to right: Tahous, Hayley, Basha, Kurt, Vanessa, and Ariadna at Karanga Camp.

At dinnertime Kurt spoke with the group about the importance of the next day.  We’ll be moving to Barafu Camp at 4603m, 15,100’.  This is high camp and puts us in position for our summit bid.  This makes it crucial that each person be extra careful about taking care of themselves and perform well because any setbacks now are difficult to recover from.  In a very real way tomorrow then becomes part of our summit attempt.

February 22

The team woke excited and focused for the task ahead.  After breakfast the group packed their rucksacks and began the slow and rhythmical pace that has now become second nature.  Watching the group perform it was obvious they had listened carefully and applied all the knowledge we had imparted to them.  There were other teams on the mountain climbing on similar schedules to us.  Twice now in two days leaders of different groups have come to us looking for medical help and assistance.  The latest episode happened before departing camp today.  SMI guides April and Kurt along with team member and MD Basha Kubicka visited a climber feeling ill.  He had been struggling for a couple days and wasn’t getting any better.  He knew he wasn’t doing well and finally decided to seek help.  With extensive experience in high altitude medicine plus the knowledge and schooling of an MD we examined the person before making an assessment that his only hope for recovery is to descend.

With rucksacks packed the team is focused and ready for the move to high camp at 4600m, 15,100'.

The team leaving Karanga Camp for high camp. Having learned all the techniques we had shown them for efficient high altitude climbing we began a steady rhythmic pace to our high camp.

Helen, Cathy, and Rogati enjoying the trek during a rest break en route to high camp.

Ariadna, Tahous, and Vanessa looking healthy and focused during a rest break on the trek to high camp.

Meanwhile our group was getting increasingly stronger.  With not only the will and determination but discipline to apply all the techniques we had shown them everybody performed better each day.  Making the trek to Barafu Camp took the group 3 ½ hours.  Upon arrival we rested and waited while groups were still coming down from the summit and hadn’t cleared out of the tent sites we had planned to use.

By mid afternoon we were settled into camp and getting ready to put the final preparations together for reaching the summit.  As the group bedded down that night April, Chris, and Kurt knew this very  motivated group was poised and ready for an excellent attempt at reaching the “Roof of Africa”.

Hayley, Stephanie, and Katie sewing on "Climb 4 Freedom" patches onto team member's garments in the dining tent on the eve of summit day.

February 23

Reaching the summit of a peak is never guaranteed.  While we’ll do everything we can to set people up for success any number of factors can get in the way of reaching the summit.  One of the top reasons is weather.  A climber can do everything possible to set themselves up for a strong summit climb but if the weather closes in there’s nothing they can do.

Kurt woke the group long before the sun came up with the goal of starting for the summit at 11:30pm.  We would climb much of the route wearing a headlamp and watch the sun rise from high up on the mountain.  This would also provide plenty of daylight for the descent.

The moonrise over the African plains on summit morning.

Hot tea and biscuits was followed by final clothing adjustments and at 11:30 the group was gathered ready to start climbing.  Before we left camp the group circled together for a morning prayer, remembrance, and reflection as to what had brought us all here in the first place.  This was not just about a group of lovely ladies climbing a mountain together.  This was about ordinary mothers taking extraordinary steps to bring awareness to child trafficking and slavery which is a crime that lurks below the radar screen of most people in the world and that very fact leaves an environment that allows for this crime to continue largely unnoticed.  Every step these ladies take would bring more awareness to this hideous crime.  Through web sites and media attention through such outlets as diverse as MTV to major news stations donations have been flooding into the Climb 4 Freedom web site all week.  Here on Kilimanjaro the entire collection of climbers from all the different teams had taken notice as well and this team of lovely ladies was outperforming every other group on the mountain with most of them having had little to no previous climbing experience.

Morning tea time before setting off for the summit.

Navigating by headlamps the team carefully paced themselves up the route inching towards Kilimanjaro’s crater rim.  The weather was clear and as the team gained elevation a cold wind was gaining momentum.  Wind usually makes the temperature drop requiring climbers to wear more warm clothes.  It also makes it more difficult for climbers to efficiently take care of themselves.  As hard as it got at times the ladies reminded themselves that this is nothing compared to the suffering some children are experiencing worldwide and this thought alone helped keep people’s motivation high.

The other factor that added to the difficulty was some of the other teams on the mountain.  People would pass our group but then never keep a steady rhythmic pace.  This would cause our team to keep an erratic pace wasting precious energy.  Managing other climbing groups is an important skill and act in diplomacy that any good mountain guide needs to have.  We did our best to keep our group together and separated enough from others to maintain our solid pace as much as possible.

Stopping for breaks to refuel and adjust clothing is crucial on climbs.  We also passed around cups of hot tea we had our staff prepare into thermoses that the guides carried.  Several hours into the climb we found ourselves at 5500m, 18,000’+ where there is half the oxygen of sea level.  People were now taking 2-3 deep breaths for each step uphill.  The effects of high altitude and cold air combine to make the ascent increasingly taxing on the body.  Not one of these ladies showed signs of tiring to the point of needing to stop though.  They kept taking care of themselves and showed a continued will and determination that had become their trademark on this climb.

The ladies headlamps lighting up the route during the pre dawn hours of summit day.

Focused and determined the team climbs steadily through the Africa night bound for the "Roof of Africa".

At 5:15am with the first rays of the sun beginning to poke their way over the horizon the team reached the crater rim of Kilimanjaro at a landmark known as Stella Point at 5790m, 19,000’.  Although the trip around part of the rim to the highest point is about 45 – 60 minutes reaching this point was a truly emotional moment for the team.  The air was cold and the sun had just begun to show it’s first rays coming over the horizon off the the east.  With the sun’s warming light beginning to tickle the African plains below team members joined in emotional tearful embraces.  The significance of this event was not lost on anybody.

We then gathered our strength for the final push to 5895m, 19348′.  They call the highest point on Kilimanjaro Uhuru Peak, The Roof of Africa.  As the team made their way around the crater rim the clear crisp breezy morning revealed breathtaking views of Kilimanjaro’s massive crater on one side and the endless African plains on the other.

45 minutes after starting the team made the last steps until there was no higher point to attain.  The entire team had reached the summit at 6:30am.  Team members again embraced in tearful and emotional celebration at the collective effort that got everybody to the summit.  Summit photos were taken as people tried to keep warm in the chilly rarified air.

Traversing the crater rim of Kilimanjaro the team's long shadows point towards the summit of Kilimanjaro in the morning light at sunrise.

View of Kilimanjaro casting a long shadow across the African plains far below with the last steps inviting us to the "Roof of Africa".

Katie at the summit.

Climb 4 Freedom founder Juliet elated over the team's success at the summit.

April sharing in the joy of the team realizing their dream.

Summit photo. Of the 15 ladies on this team they represented 21 different countries. Each carried flags from the countries they represented.

Basha and Kurt displaying the Polish flag on the summit.

Heidi and Chris at the summit.

April and Kurt at the summit.

The smiles on these lovely ladies says it all!!

Some team members realized they should start down to stay warm while others made it as long as one hour before starting down.  The team gathered together back at Stella Point and made a safe and solid descent back to camp with the final team members arriving here at 10:30am.

Traversing Kilimanjaro's crater rim on the descent.

A tired but satisifed team took a rest before packing gear, having lunch, then starting again to descend further down the mountain.  After climbing 1292m, 4239′ and descending that distance back to camp over a period of 10 hours 45 minutes a little rest was warranted.  The team also knew that recovery would be slow at 4603m, 15,100′.  The team descended out of the sub alpine zone back to elevations where plants actually grow and thrive stopping at Mweka Camp at 3048m, 10,000′.

Tired but satisfied the team had dinner and went to bed early for a well deserved sleep.

February 24

After spending several days almost 13,000′ and spending a night at the thick air of 3048m, 10,000′ makes for a very solid sleep.  The body recovers much better at this elevation than it would at the higher elevations we had just been in.

Packing our gear for the last leg of the climb that descends through the jungle allows us to carry light rucksacks.  The descent to the roadhead normally takes 3-4 hours and it is always a great time to reflect on our adventures over the past few days.  After living several days without many modern conveniences this last leg of the journey is the last opportunity to enjoy that environment while anticipating the comfort of a real bathroom and our first hot shower in a week.

With gear packed and the team ready to walk our Chagga staff enthusiastically jumped in to the time honored tradition of singing to us before we left camp.  Fun and animated our entire staff of porters, cooks, and assistant guides come together with loud voices, hands clapping, and a few African dance moves to say thank you for a great trip.

The team and our Chagga staff at Mweka Camp before descending through the jungle to the trailhead.

With big hugs all around we return our thanks to them then begin the last leisurely journey through the jungle canopy finishing at the roadhead at 1830m, 6000′.  The jungle had not seen rain over the past couple of days so the trail was not overly muddy or slippery.  The team could relax and go at their own pace.  Many people paired off and chatted away.  Some reflected on our summit day while others thoughts drifted home to husbands, kids, family, and friends who have been following our progress on a daily basis with prayers and supportive thoughts.

Tais and Katie still beautiful on day 7 descending through the jungle.

Ariadna and Stephanie all smiles on the descent through the jungle.

Kilimanjaro Impatients. The jungles of Kilimanajaro is the only place in the world this beautiful flower grows.

Black and white colobus monkey in the jungle on Kilimanjaro.

The team was back at the trailhead in 3 hours.  Transportation picked us up and we drove back to our hotel in Moshi.  Upon arrival these next couple hours would mark the last time the entire group would be together.  With no time for showers an ecstatic team was in a big celebratory mood.  Juliet had brought plenty of champaign and the entire team gathered for lunch.  Afterward some emotional speeches were made by team members.  Kurt then said some closing words and was joined by April in presenting well earned summit certificates to each team member signed by the guides while Chris documented the whole event with his professionally trained eye behind his camera.

One of the last statements Kurt told the group is that the impact of what this team just accomplished will take a couple weeks to set in.  It hasn’t even been two weeks since the team parted ways and it is still definitely sinking in for the guides and for those team members we’ve heard from since.  The energy and enthusiasm of these lovely ladies was a true joy to be a part of.  They all made sure they looked great every day before they got out of their tents.  The real beauty though rested in the hearts and minds of each one of these team members.  Taking time out of their busy schedules of being mothers and wives, some with kids as young as 6 – 12 months, was a big effort in and of itself.  Doing it all for such a worthy cause their true beauty reflected out from the inside of every team member and showed what truly beautiful, lovely, gorgeous, joyous ladies they are.

Kilimanjaro

The weather on Kilimanjaro is unseasonable and we just had a snow storm that left snow at the 15,000 foot level so we anticipate dealing with some snow on summit day.

We’re confident we can make a good safe attempt at the summit and over the next couple days we will keep pushing to see how it goes

But the team is all doing remarkably well and everyone is healthy and strong and we are looking forward to giving the summit of Kilimanjaro a good honest attempt in a couple days

Thinking about everybody at home and thanking everybody for their thoughts and prayers and we are looking forward to catching up soon.

Kurt

Aconcagua Summit Success for The Last Well!!

January 11, 2011 at 22,841' on the summit of Aconcagua

Greetings from Mendoza, Argentina!!  We are happy to report that our latest expedition to Aconcagua was another great success!  On January 11, 2011 nine members of our team stepped out onto the highest point in the world outside of the Asian continent.  We want to offer a big congratulations to Brandon Bowser, Andrew Good, Jason Lund, Phil Murphy, Rebecca Radcliffe, and Jon Schumacker along with SMI guides Lindsay Fixmer, April Mayhew, and Kurt Wedberg.

After last updating our progress from Camp 1 many events took place.  Among other things the battery on our satellite phone went dead preventing us from making subsequent updates.  Thank you to everybody who kept us in their thoughts and prayers during this time even though we didn’t get a chance to continue updating this blog.

After acclimatizing at Camp 1 our team packed up to move to Camp 2 at 19,127 feet on January 9.  The weather made several dramatic changes on this day starting off windy, then turning sunny, then it settled on producing a snow storm that remained with us the rest of the day and evening.  The team rose to the occasion and did an excellent job of staying focused with the task at hand.  We moved from Camp 1 to Camp 2 in a very respectable 4 hours 45 minutes.  We then pulled together and got everybody’s tents set up while battling winds of over 40 mph and snow blowing constantly sideways while we worked.  The team cleared spaces for tents then settled in laying out sleeping bags and pads plus organizing their gear.  Everything needed to be anchored securely or brought safely inside tents to avoid anything getting blown away by wind or covered in fresh snow.  Meanwhile SMI guides Lindsay, April, and Chris prepared hot water and dinner for the crew.  We served hot drinks and dinner in team member’s tents so they could eat and drink in relative comfort.

During the middle of the night winds finally subsided and on January 10 we woke to clear skies and snow drifts of over 1 foot that had blown in and around rocks and tents while leaving other areas completely scoured.  The team remained strong and healthy in spite of a few headaches during the night, which is not uncommon for somebody’s first night sleeping at this elevation.  We took a leisurely morning organizing our camp and personal gear while taking the time to hydrate and continue eating food, which is the fuel that will power us up on our summit attempt.  In the afternoon the team took a walk out on the Polish Glacier.  We took the time to give our gear a final tune up including examining the fit on crampons and climbing harnesses while t aking a walk to the “Edge of the World”.  Mid afternoon we were back at camp making final preparations for our summit attempt.  The weather was looking promising in spite of snow plumes prevalent on the high flanks of Aconcagua.  The plumes would indicate gusty high winds above but the guides believed the weather trend was moving in the right direction so the decision was made to prepare to go and if they deemed conditions less than favorable lead guide Kurt Wedberg would make the decision to postpone the summit attempt the following morning.

During the night Kurt poked his head out of the tent to examine the weather and seeing conditions looking favorable decided the summit attempt was a “go”.  The guides prepared hot water and breakfast for the team.  Donning crampons on our boots and ice axes in our hands we began the steadily and methodically pacing as a team from our high camp en route for the summit.  A slight breeze was present but visibility was completely clear.  A dramatic colorful sunrise offered a beautiful backdrop to our climb.  Taking breaks at regular intervals as we moved increasingly higher on the mountain as the weather remained stable allowing the team to keep making progress higher on the mountain.  By early afternoon the team found itself at “The Cave” at 22,000′ taking a break looking up at the final 841′ that leads up “The Canaletta” to the summit of Aconcagua.  After refueling ourselves we set out up the 25-30 degree chute that will bring us to the summit.  The Canaletta was full of fresh snow that allowed for some of the finest conditions we’ve seen for climbing in recent memory.  The snow resembled styrofoam allowing our crampons to gain excellent traction offering us excellent footwork and pacing.  In the thin air at 22,000’+ we were taking 4 breaths for each step we took uphill.  Finally at just after 4 pm there was no higher point to climb as the team stepped out onto the highest point in South America.

A few pictures are below.  The entire photo gallery can be found here:  Aconcagua January 2011

The team on New Year's Eve day poses for a photo upon getting their first views of Aconcagua.

The SMI guides left to right: April Mayhew, Kurt Wedberg, Lindsay Fixmer, and Chris Werner. "The best bunch of people to spend a couple weeks climbing a mountain together with!" ~Kurt Wedberg

SMI guides Lindsay Fixmer, Chris Werner, and April Mayhew having fun cooking up a New Year's Eve feast for the team.

Our mule support passes the group en route to Base Camp hauling equipment and supplies for our expedition.

The team arriving at Base Camp at 13,747', 4200m on January 1, 2011.

Passing by an icy pond on the glacier at 15,000+' on an acclimatization hike above Base Camp.

On the glacier at 14,900' with Aconcagua looming high behind.

Sunset at Camp 1.

The team on a load carry day at 17,400 feet en route to Camp 2 with Camp 1 below.

Team members packing up from a break in a snowstorm during our move day to Camp 2.

Jon Schumacker (2nd from left) and team en route to Camp 2.

Arriving at Camp 2.

The team at the "Edge of the World" on the Polish Glacier at 19,400' during a hike above Camp 2 on January 10.

Holly Maggio geared up and ready on summit day.

January 11, 7:30am on summit day. The team looking strong!

The first rays of the sun tickling the high peaks of the Andes looking north from Aconcagua.

Beautiful summit weather at 21,200' with the Canaleta Chute behind.

At a break at 22,400' in the Canaleta Chute.

At 22,600' with Aconcagua's South Face providing a dramatic back drop for the final 241' to the summit.

Jason Lund raises his ice axe in the air as he reaches the summit.

Phil Murphy steps out onto the summit.

Jon Schumacker is all smiles at the summit.

Andrew Good looking strong and happy upon reaching the summit.

Brandon Bowser elated as he reaches the summit.

Rebecca Radcliffe joining her teammates on the summit.

SMI guide Lindsay Fixmer looking strong and psyched on reaching a new personal altitude record.

SMI guide April Mayhew reaching the summit of Aconcagua for the second time in less than a month.

Congratulations team!!!

Aconcagua Expedition #2 Update

After arriving safely in Mendoza, the team started the three day trek into base camp on December 30th.

We ushered in the New Year arriving at base camp at 13,747 feet

The team rested over the next day, then began the acclimatization hikes to Camp 1 on Jan 3rd

On Jan 6th the team moved to Camp 1 where we currently are at 16,700 feet

The team is doing well.  And we are looking ahead hoping to move to Camp 2 at 19,127 feet sometime over the next couple of days.

On January 5th, Andrew Pitts and Chris Whytal elected to call 15,800 feet their personal summits for the trip.  They are currently traveling home to Wash DC.

We wish them safe travels and please keep them in your prayers.

Thank you to everybody at home for your prayers and support.

We look forward to updating you on our progress soon.

Aconcagua Expedition #2 Is Ready to Go!!

After our successful climb of Aconcagua in December we have recovered and are now geared up for our second expedition for this season.  SMI guides Kurt Wedberg and April Mayhew from Aconcagua #1 will be joined  Chris Werner and Lindsay Fixmer to lead a very special group when we meet up in Mendoza as a group on December 28.

The members of this next expedition are a group of 11 motivated individuals from The Last Well.  This Washington DC based organization is dedicated to bringing clean water to the people of Liberia and beyond.  Why is this so important?

1.1 BILLION PEOPLE LACK CLEAN WATER (1 IN 6 PEOPLE)

1 CHILD DIES FROM LACK OF CLEAN WATER EVERY FIFTEEN (15) SECONDS

PREVENTABLE, WATER-RELATED DISEASES KILL NEARLY FOURTEEN THOUSAND (14,000) PEOPLE DAILY

Yes you read those statistics correctly.  Pastor Todd Phillips of Mclean Bible Church in Washington DC saw those statistics too.  He decided to do something about it and The Last Well was formed.  The almost 4 million citizens of the country of Liberia have been hard hit by the lack of clean drinking water.  The mission of The Last Well is to build water wells throughout Liberia so every citizen has access to clean drinking water so vital for healthy living.  They are currently about half way through with this project and they don’t plan on stopping until “The Last Well” is built.

The Last Well first came to SMI in the spring of 2008 with a group of climbers and through a climb of Mt. Whitney (14,508′, 4422m) raised money and awareness for their cause.  They have since been to Kilimanjaro and are now ready to tackle the highest mountain in the Western Hemisphere to raise more money and awareness for this very worthy cause.  These 11 motivated individuals have raised over $100,000 for The Last Well from this climb alone!!

We invite you all to follow our progress through this blog, with your positive energy, and prayers of support.  Feel free to explore the links above to learn more about this worthy cause and the people behind it.  If you feel led to get involved with The Last Well there is information on their web page about how to do so.

The climbing team with SMI guide Kurt Wedberg at a gala fundraiser in Washington DC for The Last Well in October.

Pastor Todd Phillips speaking at the October gala fundraiser for The Last Well.

Kurt Wedberg inspecting the expedition's dining/kitchen tent.

This Mountain Hardwear 18' dome tent will serve as a comfortable place for the team to eat meals and enjoy team fellowship on our way into Base Camp.

SMI guide April Mayhew just stood on the summit of Aconcagua on December 15 and is psyched and ready to go again.

SMI guide Chris Werner at 15,000' on Aconcagua January 2010.

SMI guides Kurt Wedberg and April Mayhew at 19,300' on Aconcagua Dec 14, 2010.