Category: California 14ers

Mt. Whitney April 10-11, 2010

Winter storms continue to be a part of the Sierra spring this year. Our latest trip began under a warm and windless day on April 10. The Whitney Portal Road has been melting out and although the road is still closed it is now drivable as the road crews have been clearing out rocks that have pelted the asphalt as they normally do all winter long. John Wedberg graciously drove down from Bishop to give the group an assist with a car shuttle. We would get a ride up to Whitney Portal and he would drive our vehicle back down below the “Road Closed” sign.

The group climbed to Lower Boyscout Lake on Saturday. The North Fork canyon continues to melt out on the warmer days. We are now switching our route to go up the Ebersbacher Ledges instead of heading straight up the canyon. Arriving at our campsite in the afternoon wind started to kick up. After a Thai dinner the group retired to their tents as the wind picked up in intensity. The night was a rather noisy one with unabated winds and gusts hitting over 50 mph.

The morning of April 11 revealed not only winds but increasingly cloudy skies. We received an updated forecast predicting 2+ feet of new snow over the next 24 hours. We discussed our options with the group. After weighing out the various options of trying to continue to high camp, staying at Lower Boyscout Lake and training, or descending and using the days to do some training in various mountaineering techniques the group decided to descend.

Here are a couple pictures from the trip. The rest of the photos can be found here.

The group loaded up and ready for the first day on the trail. From left to right: John Wedberg, Kurt Wedberg, Brittany Szalkiewicz, Kristine Lim, Michael Tate, Joey Szalkiewicz, Joe Szalkiewicz, Wade Williford, Karsten Delap


Climbing up the North Fork Canyon


Creek crossing in the North Fork Canyon


The group enjoying a hot drink after setting up camp at Lower Boyscout Lake


Brittany, Joey, and Joe Szalkiewicz

Mt. Whitney Mountaineers Route April 1-4, 2010

After close to 2 weeks of clear spring conditions the weather turned colder and stormy on the days preceding our latest climb. A recent storm had moved away on March 31 leaving behind a cold mass of air that brought a clear sky and crisp winter temperatures. With two more storms forecasted to move through our area during the scheduled dates of this trip we began on April 1 prepared for any conditions we would face. SMI guides Kurt Wedberg and Sara Berghoff plus long time good friend George Dunn from International Mountain Guides hosted a group of nine eager climbers, most of whom had never visited the Eastern Sierra before. The group included: Jean Dawkins, Cooper Klinges, Pat Loftus, Chuck Norman, Hako Olevie, Jeff Paddock, Rick Paddock, Norma Ryan, and Viki Tracey.

After eating breakfast and dividing group loads the team drove up to 6800 feet where we began walking up the Whitney Portal Rd. The road is most dry now except for avalanche debris that stops cars from driving any higher. The first hour was spent walking 3 miles to the beginning of the summer trailhead at 8350 feet. We hiked on the Main Mt. Whitney Trail for 40 minutes to the cut off to the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek. The trail was mostly dry but soon after turning onto the North Fork we hit snow and ice. The North Fork Cyn continues to hold lots of snow and the cold temperatures made for firm conditions that were easy to walk on. Arriving at Lower Bouscout Lake at 10,300 feet we flattened out platforms and set up tents. A nice Thai dinner with rice, chicken and fresh vegetables the team retired to their tents for the evening. On April 2 the team woke to sunny skies but weather began changing as everybody got ready to move to our high camp at 12,000 feet. The team moved well and after leaving at 9:45 am they arrived at high camp 3 hours later. As the afternoon wore on the weather turned windy and stormy. Dinner and hot drinks were served and consummed inside people’s tents. As we went to sleep that evening we were experiencing wind gusts in excess of 60 mph.

The wind continued through the night but at 5 am it abated and the clouds had cleared away. The team got up and began rallying for a summit attempt. After a hot breakfast and gearing up with crampons, ice axes and helmets we roped up and began our climb. Ascending first to Iceberg Lake the team then traversed up and right into the Mountaineer’s Chute. The recent storms had left snow that required breaking a new trail on the lower 1/3 of the route. As we moved higher the snow conditions became more firm and progress speeded up. The team moved well as the higher altitude required harder breathing while the views became increasingly spectacular. Arriving at the notch at 14,ooo feet Kurt anchored in 3 pitches of fixed lines leading to the summit of Mt. Whitney. As we ascended the fixed line it became evident that weather was changing again so efficient climbing was important so we could “sneak in” reaching the summit and descend before the impending storm hit. After congratulating ourselves on a great climb with challenging conditions it was time to head down. The team lowered down the 3 pitches of fixed line then descended down the Mountaineers Chute. By the time everybody reached Iceberg Lake Mt. Whitney was covered in clouds and the wind picked up. The team moved well getting back to camp. We were a group of satisfied but tired climbers as everyone got settled in their tents while the wind picked up again and snow began falling.

Here are a few photos. The entire photo gallery can be found here: http://kurtwedbergphotography.com/Sierra-Trips/2010-Sierra-Trips/Mt-Whitney-April-1-4-2010/11733643_pFvQ3#828147600_Ksmbk

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The team from left to right: Hako Olevie, Jean Dawkins, Jeff Paddock, Rick Paddock, Chuck Parker, Kurt Wedberg, Cooper Klinges, Norma Ryan, Sara Berghoff, Viki Tracey, Pat Loftus, George Dunn

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Pat and team ascending the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek on day 1

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The scenery is pretty at every turn in the route. Here as the spring snow begins melting it reveals the Lone Pine Creek’s North Fork running underneath.

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Hako enjoying the climbing in the North Fork shortly after crossing the creek over a solid snow bridge

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The team enjoying hot drinks in the afternoon at camp before dinner.

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Viki, Norma, and Sara

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Moving to high camp on day 2

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Summit morning has arrived! Donning crampons before the start of our ascent.

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After a stormy night Mt. Whitney proudly displayed its East Face as the sun rose.

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George, Jean, Jeff, and Pat ascending the Mountaineers Chute above Iceberg Lake.

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Norma, Cooper, Viki, and Hako pause for a photo high in the Mountaineers Chute.

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The team taking a break at the Notch at 14,000 feet while Kurt sets the fixed lines.

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With the lines fixed the team ascends the final 3 pitches (rope lengths) of the route to the summit.

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Jeff on the final pitch showing us how its done.

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Pat Loftus

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Hako Olevie

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Cooper Klinges

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Jeff Paddock

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Jean Dawkins

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Norma Ryan

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Viki Tracey

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George Dunn

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Congratulations team on a great climb!!!

Mt. Whitney Mountaineers Route March 25-28, 2010

Snow conditions on Mt. Whitney have been shaping up to be some of the best we have seen in a couple years. After returning from a successful climb last week that capped off a very memorable 5-day Mountaineering Skills Seminar we were excited to return with a new group of people. SMI guides Kurt Wedberg and Sara Berghoff and long time good friend George Dunn from International Mountain Guides met a group of 9 eager and excited climbers in Lone Pine on the morning of March 25. After having breakfast and sorting out group loads we headed up the Whitney Portal Road to begin our 4-day climb. The climbers we hosted were: Nick Binson, John Delury, David Griffith, Steven Lane, Jim Sannebeck, Ryan Sommers, Michel Suignard, Taylor Tran, and Correna Wood.

Our walk during the winter/spring always begins on the Whitney Portal Road to the summer trailhead. Currrently this walk begins at about 6800 feet. The summer trailhead begins at 8350 feet. Soon we were on a trail that became increasingly snowy. Turning up the North Fork at 9000 feet we ascended the last 1300 feet to Lower Boyscout Lake. The team dug tent platforms in the snow and got settled. Hot drinks and a Thai dinner then led to the team retiring for the evening. On day 2 we moved to our high camp at 12,000 feet. The snow conditions were firm and made for excellent walking with crampons on. The team moved efficiently to our camp where we got settled. In the afternoon we reviewed some techniques team members would need to know for our ascent on the following day.

Day 3 saw the team rise early and begin our ascent wearing headlamps. We continued to be blessed with excellent snow conditions up to Iceberg Lake. Here we removed out headlamps and enjoyed a beautiful sunrise as team members learned why the Sierra is nicknamed the Range of Light. Continuing higher we entered the Mountaineers Chute where the slope angle increases to 35 degrees. Staying roped together the team employed efficient cramponing techniques while continuing to breath harder in the rarified air as they made their way up the chute on perfect spring snow conditions as the views around become increasingly more spectacular. After topping out at a notch at 14,000 feet Kurt anchored in 3 pitches (rope lengths) of fixed line and the team began the steepest climbing on the route. Shortly thereafter the team was congratulating each other on a great climb.

Here are a few highlights. The rest of the pictures are here: http://kurtwedbergphotography.com/Sierra-Trips/2010-Sierra-Trips/Mt-Whitney-March-25-28-2010/11656446_h5yBC#821984930_gJtBz

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The team ascending the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek on day 1.

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The view of Mt. Whitney from our camp at Lower Boyscout Lake.

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Day 2 ascending towards high camp with perfect snow conditions.

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Enjoying the view of the Alabama Hills in the Owens Valley during a rest break

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Nearing our high camp Mt Whitney (right) comes into view

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Our high camp at 12,000 feet

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Donning crampons and gearing up for a pre dawn start for our summit bid

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Sunrise from 13,000 feet on Mt. Whitney

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Michel, Taylor, and Jim enjoying the excellent cramponing conditions on the Mountaineers Chute

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Sara, Cory, and Steven high in the Mountaineer’s Chute

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George, John, Ryan, and Nick nearing the top of the Mountaineers Chute

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Looking up at the final 400 feet where Kurt would set the fixed lines

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The team nearing the summit on the final pitch of fixed line

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Ryan Somers

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Michel Suidnard

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Steven Lane

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Jim Sannebeck

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Taylor Tran

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Nick Binson

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Correna Wood

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John Delury

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Sara Berghoff

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George Dunn

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Congratulations to a great team!!

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The guides from left to right: Kurt Wedberg, Sara Berghoff, George Dunn

Polemonium Peak via U Notch Couloir, October 10-12, 2009

The U Notch Couloir, like all the gully climbs in the Sierra that don’t melt off, is hard ice during the fall months.  In the spring time Sierra gullies are filled with snow and make for excellent steep snow climbs.  Over the course of the summer many melt freeze cycles turn the snow into ice.  The U Notch had been “set up” for ice climbing back in July.  By October we now had solid ice with a coating of fresh snow from a recent storm that was up to a foot deep in places.  These varied conditions made for a challenging and rewarding climb.

After topping out on the U Notch we turned south to Polemonium Peak.  Named after the famous Sierra flower that only blooms above 12,000′ in the Sierra, Polemonium Peak is one of five 14ers along the crest above the Palisade Glacier.  At the U Notch we took off our crampons for the couple pitches of low 5th class rock climbing that lead to the summit of this very enjoyable climb.

This climb also would mark the final California 14er for Ben to climb.

Here are a few highlights.  The entire photo gallery is here:  http://kurtwedbergphotography.com/Sierra-Trips/2009-Sierra-Trips/Polemonium-Peak-October-2009/9942984_pYKqM/1/678654937_HwWqs

The U Notch Couloir in the center skyline rising above the Palisade Glacier

The U Notch Couloir on the right rising above the Palisade Glacier. The left couloir is called the V Notch.

Crossing the bergshrund where the Palisade Glacier separates from the cliff above creating this crevasse.

Crossing the bergshrund where the Palisade Glacier separates from the cliff above creating this crevasse.

Ben climbing on the hard ice on pitch #2

Ben climbing on the hard ice on pitch #2

Ben still looking strong near the top of the U Notch

Ben still looking strong near the top of the U Notch

Ben finishing up the first pitch of low 5th class rock climbing en route to the summit of Polemonium Peak

Ben finishing up the first pitch of low 5th class rock climbing en route to the summit of Polemonium Peak

Ben near the summit of Polemonium Peak with Barrett Lake and the Palisade Basin far below.

Ben near the summit of Polemonium Peak with Barrett Lake and the Palisade Basin far below.

Congratulations Ben on finishing all the California 14ers!!

Congratulations Ben on finishing all the California 14ers!!

Mt. Russell (14,086′) East Ridge, October 6-8, 2009

In the midst of the first cold snap of the fall season in the Sierra we returned to the East Ridge of Mt. Russell.  Temperatures got so cold at higher elevations it left frost on the route.  The weather remained clear and the route was enjoyable even with the frost providing an added difficulty with finding solid foot and hand holds.

Here are a couple photos of the trip.  The entire photo gallery is here:  http://kurtwedbergphotography.com/Sierra-Trips/2009-Sierra-Trips/Mt-Russell-East-Ridge-Oct-2009/9898120_JhPrj/1/674512393_nVPJR

The team ready to begin at Whitney Portal

The team ready to begin at Whitney Portal

Temperatures dipped well below freezing each evening leaving ice at every water source

Temperatures dipped well below freezing each evening leaving ice at every water source

Whitney Falls already looks thick enough to climb

Whitney Falls already looks thick enough to climb

Climbing on the East Ridge required negotiating careful foot and hand placements with the frost coating the rock

Climbing on the East Ridge required negotiating careful foot and hand placements with the frost coating the rock

Pausing in the sun in the middle of the East Ridge

Pausing in the sun in the middle of the East Ridge

Summit success on a clear crisp fall day in the Sierra

Summit success on a clear crisp fall day in the Sierra

Mt. Russell, East Ridge (14,086′) September 3-4, 2009

Pleasant temperatures and a forecast for thundershowers greeted us at the start of the Labor Day weekend.  Mt. Russell continues to be overshadowed by its much more popular neighbor Mt. Whitney to the south.  We saw very few people on the entire trip.  The forecast dictated an early start and efficient climbing to get up to the summit and down safely before any potential storm hit.  We hiked up the North Fork Canyon and set up camp at Upper Boyscout Lake.  After dinner we hit the sack early with our rucksacks packed in preparation for a planned early wake up.  The ascent went well as we moved efficiently up the route.  As we descended off the summit storm clouds moved in and we quickly descended off the East Ridge down the Southwest Chute to lower ground.  The storm dropped hail for a short time as it blew through.  We descended back to Upper Boyscout Lake, packed up camp, and returned to Whitney Portal where we enjoyed bacon cheeseburgers from the Whitney Portal Store.

Below are some highlights.  The entire photo gallery is here:  http://kurtwedbergphotography.com/Sierra-Trips/2009-Sierra-Trips/Mt-Russell-East-Ridge-Sept-09/9520818_8AxeF/1/639989408_vF2qH

The team at Whitney Portal saddled up and ready to climb

The team at Whitney Portal saddled up and ready to climb

The Ebersbacher Ledges

The Ebersbacher Ledges

Creek crossing below Upper Boyscout Lake

Creek crossing below Upper Boyscout Lake

The team ready to begin the ascent long before daybreak at camp at Upper Boyscout Lake

The team ready to begin the ascent long before daybreak at camp at Upper Boyscout Lake

The team pausing for a photo in the middle of the East Ridge

The team pausing for a photo in the middle of the East Ridge with Lake Tuleinyo behind

The team negotiating some of the 3rd class moves on the East Ridge

The team negotiating some of the 3rd class moves on the East Ridge

The team taking time out for a quick summit photo before descending ahead of the oncoming storm

The team taking time out for a quick summit photo before descending ahead of the oncoming storm

Palisades Traverse August 30 – September 1, 2009 (Thunderbolt Peak – North Palisade Peak)

Benjamin Bauman had been up all of California’s 14ers except a couple in the Palisades.  He wanted to finish climbing them all in 2009.  We climbed Thunderbolt Peak via Southwest Chute #1 and traversed south across the range and climbed Starlight Peak and North Palisades Peak then descended west via the U Notch back to our camp in Palisade Basin.  That left one remaining peak on Ben’s list:  Polemonium Peak which was scheduled for October to be climbed via the U Notch Couloir from the east side approached by crossing the Palisade Glacier.

The entire photo gallery from the trip is here:  http://kurtwedbergphotography.com/Sierra-Trips/2009-Sierra-Trips/Palisades-Traverse-Aug-30-Sep/9487697_c6B3Y/1/637000473_3VxbU

Thunderbolt Peak, Starlight, and North Palisade Peak from our camp in Palisade Basin

Thunderbolt Peak, Starlight, and North Palisade Peak from our camp in Palisade Basin

Ben on the final 3rd class section of Thunderbolt Peak

Ben on the final 3rd class section of Thunderbolt Peak

Ben climbing the final summit block on Thunderbolt Peak

Ben climbing the final summit block on Thunderbolt Peak

Ben topped out on Thunderbolt Peak!

Ben topped out on Thunderbolt Peak!

Looking south along the crest of the Palisades from the summit of Thunderbolt Peak.  The milk bottle that makes up Starlight Peak is silhoutted against the skyline on the right.

Looking south along the crest of the Palisades from the summit of Thunderbolt Peak. The "milk bottle" that makes up Starlight Peak is silhoutted against the skyline on the right.

Descending to the notch in between Thunderbolt Peak and Starlight

Descending to the notch in between Thunderbolt Peak and Starlight

Traversing on the way to Starlight

Traversing on the way to Starlight

The Milk Bottle

The Milk Bottle

Kurt on top of the Milk Bottle

Kurt on top of the Milk Bottle

Ben on the traverse towards North Palisade Peak

Ben on the traverse towards North Palisade Peak

Ben on the summit of North Palisade Peak

Ben on the summit of North Palisade Peak

Mt. Russell East Ridge (14,086′), August 12, 2009

On August 12 it was a pleasure to climb with Betsy on my favorite 3rd class route in the Sierra.  Betsy is a lifelong visitor to the Whitney area but had never been up Mt. Russell.  We met at the Whitney Portal Hostel and drove to Whitney Portal beginning our hike long before the sun came up.  A beautiful, clear, and warm night made the approach to Upper Boyscout Lake a very enjoyable hike.  We were treated to a gorgeous sunrise high above Upper Boyscout Lake.  We were greeted with superb weather making for another enjoyable ascent of the East Ridge of Mt. Russell.  After reaching the summit we  descended down the southwest chute, over the Whitney/Russell Col, past Iceberg Lake, and down to Whitney Portal in the afternoon with plenty of time to enjoy bacon cheeseburgers at the Whitney Portal Store.  The rest of the pictures are here:  http://kurtwedbergphotography.com/Sierra-Trips/2009-Sierra-Trips/Mt-Russell-East-Ridge-August/9259727_M5WTg/1/618536412_RT9J4

Betsy above Upper Boyscout Lake before sunrise.

Betsy above Upper Boyscout Lake before sunrise.

Sunrise on Mt. Whitney

Sunrise on Mt. Whitney

The start of the East Ridge of Mt. Russell

The start of the East Ridge of Mt. Russell

Start of the East Ridge of Mt. Russell

Starting up the East Ridge of Mt. Russell

The narrowest part of the East Ridge of Mt. Russell

The narrowest part of the East Ridge of Mt. Russell

Betsy traversing on the East Ridge of Mt. Russell

Betsy traversing on the East Ridge of Mt. Russell. Behind in the distance is Lake Tuleinyo, the highest lake in the Western Hemisphere.

Betsy pausing to enjoy the scenery on one of the catwalks on Mt. Russells East Ridge

Betsy pausing to enjoy the scenery on one of the "catwalks" on Mt. Russell's East Ridge

Betsy making moves on the high quality granite on Mt. Russells East Ridge

Betsy making moves on the high quality granite on Mt. Russell's East Ridge

Summit success on the East Ridge of Mt. Russell!

Summit success on the East Ridge of Mt. Russell!

East Face of Mt. Whitney, August 9-10, 2009

Andrew Lewicky from www.sierradescents.com and Eileen Bistrisky from Vancouver joined us for another memorable climb of the East Face of Mt. Whitney.  In addition to Kurt’s photos Andy wore a helmet cam for the climb.  Some of the video shot includes a great sequence on the Fresh Air Traverse, one of the funnest and most classic alpine climbing pitches in the country!   A detailed write up of the climb can be viewed here:  http://www.sierradescents.com/climbing/whitney/east-face.html.  Video cam footage of the Fresh Air Traverse can be viewed here:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvgzcz45arg.

Kurt’s photo’s of the climb are here:  http://kurtwedbergphotography.com/Sierra-Trips/2009-Sierra-Trips/Mt-Whitney-East-Face-August-9/9238581_C9w8F/1/616670270_kfDZd

Kurt, Eileen, Andy at Whitney Portal

Kurt, Eileen, and Andy at Whitney Portal

Hiking over granite slabs above Lower Boyscout Lake.

Hiking over granite slabs above Lower Boyscout Lake.

Creek running over granite slabs below Upper Boyscout Lake.

Creek running over granite slabs below Upper Boyscout Lake.

East Face of Whitney from below Iceberg Lake

East Face of Whitney from below Iceberg Lake

Sunrise from above Iceberg Lake

Sunrise from above Iceberg Lake

Moon over the East Face of Mt. Whitney

Moon over the East Face of Mt. Whitney

Eileen finishing the first pitch of the East Face of Whitney

Eileen finishing the first pitch of the East Face of Whitney

Andy finishing pitch 4 at the top of the Washboards

Andy finishing pitch 4 at the top of the Washboards

Eileen high on the East Face of Whitney with Iceberg Lake behind.

Eileen high on the East Face of Whitney with Iceberg Lake behind.

Eileen & Andy at a belay stance

Eileen & Andy at a belay stance

Eileen enjoying the exhilarating Fresh Air Traverse on Mt. Whitneys East Face.

Eileen enjoying the exhilarating Fresh Air Traverse on Mt. Whitney's East Face.

Andy topping out above the Fresh Air Traverse

Andy topping out above the Fresh Air Traverse

Eileen climbing above the Grand Staircase.

Eileen climbing above the Grand Staircase.

Summit success!!  Left to right:  Andy, Eileen, and Kurt

Summit success!! Left to right: Andy, Eileen, and Kurt

East Face of Mt. Whitney (14,497′) July 29, 2009

Our first climb of the East Face of Mt. Whitney in 2009 was a one day car to car ascent.  Leaving Whitney Portal wearing headlamps we ascended the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek with the goal of reaching the base of the route at sunrise.  We would then climb efficiently up the route leaving us plenty of daylight to return to Whitney Portal in time for burgers from the Whitney Portal Store.

Taking a quick rest break at Lower Boyscout Lake in the middle of the night.

Taking a quick rest break at Lower Boyscout Lake in the middle of the night.

Polemoniums in full bloom.  They only grow above 12,000 feet in the Sierra.

Polemonium's in full bloom. They only grow above 12,000 feet in the Sierra.

Sunrise at the start of the East Face of Mt. Whitney

Sunrise at the start of the East Face of Mt. Whitney

The Tower Traverse, the first pitch of the East Face route on Mt. Whitney.

The Tower Traverse, the first pitch of the East Face route on Mt. Whitney.

Finishing pitch #4 at the top of the Washboards.

Finishing pitch #4 at the top of the Washboards.

Pitch #5 above the Washboards with Iceberg Lake behind.

Pitch #5 above the Washboards with Iceberg Lake behind.

The Fresh Air Traverse on the East Face of Mt. Whitney

The Fresh Air Traverse on the East Face of Mt. Whitney

Climbing the Grand Staircase.

Climbing the Grand Staircase.

As we finished off the final 5th class pitch clouds were building around Mt. Whitney

As we finished off the final 5th class pitch clouds were building around Mt. Whitney

A well earned summit photo on top of Mt. Whitney!

A well earned summit photo on top of Mt. Whitney!

As clouds surrounded Keeler Needle immediately south of Mt. Whitney it began to hail.  The summit is no place to be in a storm so it was time to descend.

As clouds surrounded Keeler Needle immediately south of Mt. Whitney it began to hail. The summit is no place to be in a storm so it was time to descend.

Descending the upper section of the Mountaineers Route of Mt. Whitney.

Descending the upper section of the Mountaineers Route of Mt. Whitney.

A well earned bacon cheese burger from the Whitney Portal Store.

A well earned bacon cheese burger from the Whitney Portal Store.