Category: California 14ers

Mt. Williamson (14,375′) / Mt. Tyndall (14,018′) June 29-July 3

Exciting views of remote part of the Sierra and supurb route conditions greeted us on this annually scheduled SMI trip.  We allow 5 days to tackle two of the Sierra’s most remote 14ers.  Mt. Williamson at 14,375′  is the second highest peak in California and access to the peak is restricted past July 15.  Mt. Tyndall lies outside of the closure area located closer to Shepherd Pass.  The climbs are enjoyable ascents involving 3rd class climbing over excellent quality Sierra granite.  Breathtaking views from the summits add to the majestic beauty of these peaks.

Back row left to right:  Ed Saenz, Lori Nissen, Julie Harden, Reid Lidow, Cory Cline.  Front row guides Sara Berghoff and Kurt Wedberg

Back row left to right: Ed Saenz, Lori Nissen, Julie Harden, Reid Lidow, Cory Cline. Front row guides Sara Berghoff and Kurt Wedberg

Julie, Kurt, and Ed relaxing at camp before dinner.

Julie, Kurt, and Ed relaxing at camp before dinner.

Mt. Tyndall lit up by early morning sunlight as seen from our approach to Mt. Williamson

Mt. Tyndall lit up by early morning sunlight as seen from our approach to Mt. Williamson

Beginning up the West Face of Mt. Williamson

Beginning up the West Face of Mt. Williamson

Lori, Julie, and Ed enjoying climbing the steep snow high on the West Face of Mt. Williamson.

Lori, Julie, and Ed enjoying climbing the steep snow high on the West Face of Mt. Williamson.

Ed and Julie on the 3rd class finish on the West Face of Mt. Williamson.

Ed and Julie on the 3rd class finish on the West Face of Mt. Williamson.

Summit photo on Mt. Williamson

Summit photo on Mt. Williamson

North Rib of Mt. Tyndall from camp

North Rib of Mt. Tyndall from camp

Cory, Reid, Ed, and Sara beginning the ascent of the North Rib of Mt. Tyndall

Cory, Reid, Ed, and Sara beginning the ascent of the North Rib of Mt. Tyndall

Sara topping out on the North Rib of Mt. Tyndall

Sara topping out on the North Rib of Mt. Tyndall

Ed on the summit block of Mt. Tyndall

Ed on the summit block of Mt. Tyndall

Mt. Sill, Apex Couloir 14,153′, 4314m

March 23-25, 2009

We were treated to clear weather in the Sierra backcountry over Memorial Day weekend this year.  Chuck Raper, Patricia Twomey, and Dustin Wunderlich joined guides Rick Poedtke and Kurt Wedberg for a classic climb in the Palisades region of the Sierra.

Mt. Sill is one of the few Sierra peaks that was named by the indigenous Piaute indians who inhabited the Owens Valley.  Their name for it was “Nee-na-mee-she” which is translated “Guardian of the Valley”.  Today it is a classic 14er in Californa and the view from its summit is considered one of the finest in the entire Sierra.

Our route was the Apex Couloir on Mt. Sill.  This route is also called the “North Couloir” but since there are so many couloirs that go by that name I prefer calling it the Apex Couloir.  The snow conditions remain excellent in the Palisades right now.  We were treated to four pitches of climbing at 40 – 45 degrees.  We then exited the route to the right where we climbed a pitch of 3rd to low 5th class rock that led to one more pitch of 50+ degree snow.  One final 4th class pitch led to the ridgeline on Mt. Sill where we scrambled up to the summit.

Here are a few pictures.  The entire gallery can be viewed here:  http://kurtwedberg.smugmug.com/gallery/8329693_LrcYi/1/545818744_wQKSG

The Palisade Glacier with Mt. Sill on the left.

The Palisade Glacier with Mt. Sill on the left.

Left to right:  Rick Poedtke, Chuck Raper, Patricia Twomey, Dustin Wunderlich, Kurt Wedberg

Left to right: Rick Poedtke, Chuck Raper, Patricia Twomey, Dustin Wunderlich, Kurt Wedberg

Chuck and Dusty on the 3rd pitch of the Apex Couloir.

Chuck and Dusty on the 3rd pitch of the Apex Couloir.

Chuck and Dusty at the belay ledge at the top of the 4th pitch.

Chuck and Dusty at the belay ledge at the top of the 4th pitch.

Chuck and Dusty climbing near the top of the 5th pitch.

Chuck and Dusty climbing near the top of the 5th pitch.

Chuck and Dusty nearing the top of the 6th pitch.

Chuck and Dusty nearing the top of the 6th pitch.

Chuck and Dusty at the belay station at the top of the 6th pitch.

Chuck and Dusty at the belay station at the top of the 6th pitch.

Chuck and Dusty rock climbing on pitch 7.

Chuck and Dusty rock climbing on pitch 7.

Chuck and Dusty nearing the classic summit of Mt. Sill with a breathtaking view of the Sierra all around.

Chuck and Dusty nearing the classic summit of Mt. Sill with a breathtaking view of the Sierra all around. It is easy to see why this peak is known for offering one of the finest views in the Sierra!

 

High five on the summit of Mt. Sill!

High five on the summit of Mt. Sill!

Summit photo.  Left to right:  Dustin Wunderlich, Kurt Wedberg, Chuck Raper.

Summit photo. Left to right: Dustin Wunderlich, Kurt Wedberg, Chuck Raper.

Mt. Whitney, Mountaineer’s Route 14,497′, 4418m

May 14-17, 2009

We had a great climb of Mt. Whitney via the Mountaineer’s Route.  We were treated to warm, clear, and calm weather for the entire trip.  To allow for plenty of acclimatization and some training on techniques we planned a 4-day trip.  There was plenty of snow from Iceberg Lake and higher but it is melting fast in the Sierra right now.

The entire photo gallery is here:  http://kurtwedberg.smugmug.com/gallery/8241408_UdZae/1/539107184_oLihd

Mt. Whitney, Mountaineers Route

Mt. Whitney, Mountaineer's Route

John Rogitz, Bill Simon, Ralph Buoncristiani, and Michael Tate geared up and ready for the climb!

Ralph, Bill, and John on the last pitch of the Mountaineers Route

Ralph, Bill, and John on the last pitch of the Mountaineer's Route

Ralph, Kurt, John, and Bill on the summit of Mt. Whitney

Ralph, Kurt, John, and Bill on the summit of Mt. Whitney

Mike, Ralph, and Bill getting settled in the tent

Mike, Ralph, and Bill getting settled in the tent

North Palisade Peak, Clyde Couloir

North Palisade Peak, Clyde Couloir

North Palisade Peak, Clyde Couloir

 

Chuck Raper high in the Clyde Couloir

Chuck Raper high in the Clyde Couloir

May 11-13, 2009

Our first trip into the Palisades this year was to climb the Clyde Couloir with Chuck Raper.  The weather was clear with high winds.  The route is in great shape at the moment.  The bergshrund on the Palisade Glacier is easily crossed and the current snow conditions in the chute are supurb.

The entire photo gallery is here:  http://kurtwedberg.smugmug.com/gallery/8202780_q54pC/1/535974139_p4ykZ

Mt. Langley, NE Couloir 14,042′, 4280m

Mt. Langley, NE Couloir

Mt. Langley, NE Couloir

 

Rick & Brian on the NE Couloir of Mt. Langley

Rick & Brian on the NE Couloir of Mt. Langley

Rick & Brian on the summit of Mt. Langley

Rick & Brian on the summit of Mt. Langley

May 1-3, 2009

Brian Bentrott, Rick Putnam, and Kurt Wedberg climbed the NE Couloir of Mt. Langley.  This was a training climb for Rick’s upcoming Mt. McKinley climb in June.  Under a windy and stormy day we climbed the 40+ degree chute to the summit of Mt. Langley.

The entire photo gallery is here:  http://kurtwedberg.smugmug.com/gallery/8095299_4rxz8/1/527546726_5Nhjg