Category: SMI News

After close to 2 weeks of clear spring conditions the weather turned colder and stormy on the days preceding our latest climb. A recent storm had moved away on March 31 leaving behind a cold mass of air that brought a clear sky and crisp winter temperatures. With two more storms forecasted to move through our area during the scheduled dates of this trip we began on April 1 prepared for any conditions we would face. SMI guides Kurt Wedberg and Sara Berghoff plus long time good friend George Dunn from International Mountain Guides hosted a group of nine eager climbers, most of whom had never visited the Eastern Sierra before. The group included: Jean Dawkins, Cooper Klinges, Pat Loftus, Chuck Norman, Hako Olevie, Jeff Paddock, Rick Paddock, Norma Ryan, and Viki Tracey.

After eating breakfast and dividing group loads the team drove up to 6800 feet where we began walking up the Whitney Portal Rd. The road is most dry now except for avalanche debris that stops cars from driving any higher. The first hour was spent walking 3 miles to the beginning of the summer trailhead at 8350 feet. We hiked on the Main Mt. Whitney Trail for 40 minutes to the cut off to the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek. The trail was mostly dry but soon after turning onto the North Fork we hit snow and ice. The North Fork Cyn continues to hold lots of snow and the cold temperatures made for firm conditions that were easy to walk on. Arriving at Lower Bouscout Lake at 10,300 feet we flattened out platforms and set up tents. A nice Thai dinner with rice, chicken and fresh vegetables the team retired to their tents for the evening. On April 2 the team woke to sunny skies but weather began changing as everybody got ready to move to our high camp at 12,000 feet. The team moved well and after leaving at 9:45 am they arrived at high camp 3 hours later. As the afternoon wore on the weather turned windy and stormy. Dinner and hot drinks were served and consummed inside people’s tents. As we went to sleep that evening we were experiencing wind gusts in excess of 60 mph.

The wind continued through the night but at 5 am it abated and the clouds had cleared away. The team got up and began rallying for a summit attempt. After a hot breakfast and gearing up with crampons, ice axes and helmets we roped up and began our climb. Ascending first to Iceberg Lake the team then traversed up and right into the Mountaineer’s Chute. The recent storms had left snow that required breaking a new trail on the lower 1/3 of the route. As we moved higher the snow conditions became more firm and progress speeded up. The team moved well as the higher altitude required harder breathing while the views became increasingly spectacular. Arriving at the notch at 14,ooo feet Kurt anchored in 3 pitches of fixed lines leading to the summit of Mt. Whitney. As we ascended the fixed line it became evident that weather was changing again so efficient climbing was important so we could “sneak in” reaching the summit and descend before the impending storm hit. After congratulating ourselves on a great climb with challenging conditions it was time to head down. The team lowered down the 3 pitches of fixed line then descended down the Mountaineers Chute. By the time everybody reached Iceberg Lake Mt. Whitney was covered in clouds and the wind picked up. The team moved well getting back to camp. We were a group of satisfied but tired climbers as everyone got settled in their tents while the wind picked up again and snow began falling.

Here are a few photos. The entire photo gallery can be found here: http://kurtwedbergphotography.com/Sierra-Trips/2010-Sierra-Trips/Mt-Whitney-April-1-4-2010/11733643_pFvQ3#828147600_Ksmbk

The team from left to right: Hako Olevie, Jean Dawkins, Jeff Paddock, Rick Paddock, Chuck Parker, Kurt Wedberg, Cooper Klinges, Norma Ryan, Sara Berghoff, Viki Tracey, Pat Loftus, George Dunn

Pat and team ascending the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek on day 1

The scenery is pretty at every turn in the route. Here as the spring snow begins melting it reveals the Lone Pine Creek’s North Fork running underneath.

Hako enjoying the climbing in the North Fork shortly after crossing the creek over a solid snow bridge

The team enjoying hot drinks in the afternoon at camp before dinner.

Viki, Norma, and Sara

Moving to high camp on day 2

Summit morning has arrived! Donning crampons before the start of our ascent.

After a stormy night Mt. Whitney proudly displayed its East Face as the sun rose.

George, Jean, Jeff, and Pat ascending the Mountaineers Chute above Iceberg Lake.

Norma, Cooper, Viki, and Hako pause for a photo high in the Mountaineers Chute.

The team taking a break at the Notch at 14,000 feet while Kurt sets the fixed lines.

With the lines fixed the team ascends the final 3 pitches (rope lengths) of the route to the summit.

Jeff on the final pitch showing us how its done.

Pat Loftus

Hako Olevie

Cooper Klinges

Jeff Paddock

Jean Dawkins

Norma Ryan

Viki Tracey

George Dunn

Congratulations team on a great climb!!!

Snow conditions on Mt. Whitney have been shaping up to be some of the best we have seen in a couple years. After returning from a successful climb last week that capped off a very memorable 5-day Mountaineering Skills Seminar we were excited to return with a new group of people. SMI guides Kurt Wedberg and Sara Berghoff and long time good friend George Dunn from International Mountain Guides met a group of 9 eager and excited climbers in Lone Pine on the morning of March 25. After having breakfast and sorting out group loads we headed up the Whitney Portal Road to begin our 4-day climb. The climbers we hosted were: Nick Binson, John Delury, David Griffith, Steven Lane, Jim Sannebeck, Ryan Sommers, Michel Suignard, Taylor Tran, and Correna Wood.

Our walk during the winter/spring always begins on the Whitney Portal Road to the summer trailhead. Currrently this walk begins at about 6800 feet. The summer trailhead begins at 8350 feet. Soon we were on a trail that became increasingly snowy. Turning up the North Fork at 9000 feet we ascended the last 1300 feet to Lower Boyscout Lake. The team dug tent platforms in the snow and got settled. Hot drinks and a Thai dinner then led to the team retiring for the evening. On day 2 we moved to our high camp at 12,000 feet. The snow conditions were firm and made for excellent walking with crampons on. The team moved efficiently to our camp where we got settled. In the afternoon we reviewed some techniques team members would need to know for our ascent on the following day.

Day 3 saw the team rise early and begin our ascent wearing headlamps. We continued to be blessed with excellent snow conditions up to Iceberg Lake. Here we removed out headlamps and enjoyed a beautiful sunrise as team members learned why the Sierra is nicknamed the Range of Light. Continuing higher we entered the Mountaineers Chute where the slope angle increases to 35 degrees. Staying roped together the team employed efficient cramponing techniques while continuing to breath harder in the rarified air as they made their way up the chute on perfect spring snow conditions as the views around become increasingly more spectacular. After topping out at a notch at 14,000 feet Kurt anchored in 3 pitches (rope lengths) of fixed line and the team began the steepest climbing on the route. Shortly thereafter the team was congratulating each other on a great climb.

Here are a few highlights. The rest of the pictures are here: http://kurtwedbergphotography.com/Sierra-Trips/2010-Sierra-Trips/Mt-Whitney-March-25-28-2010/11656446_h5yBC#821984930_gJtBz

The team ascending the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek on day 1.

The view of Mt. Whitney from our camp at Lower Boyscout Lake.

Day 2 ascending towards high camp with perfect snow conditions.

Enjoying the view of the Alabama Hills in the Owens Valley during a rest break

Nearing our high camp Mt Whitney (right) comes into view

Our high camp at 12,000 feet

Donning crampons and gearing up for a pre dawn start for our summit bid

Sunrise from 13,000 feet on Mt. Whitney

Michel, Taylor, and Jim enjoying the excellent cramponing conditions on the Mountaineers Chute

Sara, Cory, and Steven high in the Mountaineer’s Chute

George, John, Ryan, and Nick nearing the top of the Mountaineers Chute

Looking up at the final 400 feet where Kurt would set the fixed lines

The team nearing the summit on the final pitch of fixed line

Ryan Somers

Michel Suidnard

Steven Lane

Jim Sannebeck

Taylor Tran

Nick Binson

Correna Wood

John Delury

Sara Berghoff

George Dunn

Congratulations to a great team!!

The guides from left to right: Kurt Wedberg, Sara Berghoff, George Dunn