Category: SMI News

More from Everest Base Camp!

Posted on April 12, 2012 by Kurt Wedberg - 7 Summits, Himalayas, International Expeditions, Mt. Everest, SMI News

Fred enjoying an acclimatization hike on Pumo Ri above Base Camp with the dramatic backdrop of Nuptse (right) and Everest (left).

Our Sherpa's dancing at the end of the "Puja ceremony".

Kurt and Fred dancing with the Sherpa's at the culmination of the "Puja ceremony" at Everest Base Camp on April 10, 2012.

Fred (standing on the far left) joining our Sherpa's in their "Puja ceremony" at Everest Base Camp. They construct an alter where they burn juniper. They hang prayer flags from a post above the alter. A lama from the town of Pangboche walked up to read some pray

Everest Team Reaches Base Camp!

Posted on April 11, 2012 by Kurt Wedberg - 7 Summits, Himalayas, International Expeditions, Mt. Everest, SMI News

Greetings from Everest Base Camp at 5365m/17,600′. We arrived here on Easter Sunday. After leaving Pheriche we spent three nights at a camp at the base of Lobuche Peak before moving to EBC. Camped in a small amphitheater we were treated to outstanding views of the north face of Cholatse as well as distant peaks we passed by in prior days. On April 8 we packed up our gear and trekked past the villages of Lobuche and Gorak Shep. The route then drops onto the Khumbu Glacier. Pumo Ri (7165m/23,507′), Nuptse (7864m/25,800′), Lhotse (8516m/27,939′), and Everest (8850m/29,035′) dominated our field of view.

Arriving at EBC caps off one of the all time classic treks in the world. From the culture to the stunning scenery and the people and wildlife along the way this trek is an experience like no other! There were several people who accompanied us to Everest Base Camp just to experience everything this trek has to offer. After spending a couple days with us they took off on April 11 to descend back down valley en route to Kathmandu to catch flights home.

Since arriving at EBC our primary focus has been to get acclimated to this elevation. Over the coming days we plan to take a few day hikes around our area and make our first forays into the Khumbu Icefall. On April 10 we did our first training and practice on the skills and techniques needed to climb above EBC. This included cramponing, ascending and descending fixed lines, and practicing walking across the rungs of ladders that will be spanning crevasses in the Icefall and beyond.

Fred practicing fixed line ascension on an ice tower on the Khumbu Glacier near our Base Camp.

Everest Team Moving Closer to Base Camp!

Posted on April 4, 2012 by Kurt Wedberg - 7 Summits, Himalayas, International Expeditions, Mt. Everest, SMI News

Mt. Everest (8850m/29,035') and Lhotse (8516m/27,939') the first and fourth highest mountains in the world with the Tenzing Norgay monument in the foreground. The first ascent of Mt. Everest is credited to Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa. This monument was built in 2003 in honor of Tenzing Norgay.

After 3 nights in Namche Bazaar we hiked 5 hours to the village of Deboche at 3820m/12,533′ where we spent the nights April 1 and 2 at the Rivendell Lodge.

Deboche is located 40m/131′ below Tengboche, site of the most well known Buddhist monasteries in the Khumbu. The team visited the monastery then went next door to the best bakery in the Khumbu. We sat outside enjoying freshly baked apple pie and chocolate cake under sunny skies with views of Everest (8850m/29,035′), Lhotse (8516m/27,939′), and Ama Dablam (6856m/22,493′).

The entrance to the Tengboche monastery.

Kurt and Fred at the Tengboche monastery.

Inside the Tengboche monastery.

On April 3 the team packed up to move to Pheriche (4240m/13,910′). Along the hike we were treated to a close sighting of a group of Nepalese mountain goats perched on a shelf directly above our trail. Moving higher the team passed through Pangboche where we visited Lama Geshe, a local monk who offered his blessing on our climb. His blessings included chanting, incense burning, and the presentation of a scarf an a choker around each trekker’s neck along with a delicate “head butt”. After our visit the weather turned cloudy and by noon light snow was falling. We stopped at a tea house for lunch then finished our hike to Pheriche with snow creating a thin blanket on our trail.

A Nepalese mountain goat watching us from a perch above our trekking route.

Fred and Kurt on a suspension bridge spanning a river filled gorge far below.

Fred getting a "head butt" blessing from a lama in Pangboche.

The weather cleared on April 4 and the team decided to take an acclimatization day hike above Pheriche where we got nice views of the surrounding peaks. Besides Everest there are many spectacular peaks in this region of the Himalayas. Every new bend in our route reveals more of these beautiful mountains. We feel humbled and truly blessed to be among these great peaks, many of which rise over a mile above us and are relatively unknown among the general mountaineering community. Peaks within our field of view today included Tabuche (6495m/21,308′), Cholatse (6335m/20,784′), and Arakam Tse (6423m/21,072′) as well as the more well known Island Peak (6189m/20,304′), which is one of the most popular trekking peaks in the region.

Located in Pheriche is a high altitude medical clinic that has been in operation since 1973. The Himalayan Rescue Association staffs it with doctors who provide service to trekkers and climbers in need of medical attention. The work done here over the past 39 years has led to a large contribution of what we know about high altitude medicine today. The team visited the clinic in the afternoon after our day hike where one of the doctors shared some insights on high altitude medicine then gave us a tour of the facility.

On April 5 our plan is to move to Lobuche (5290m/17,355′) Base Camp. Lobuche is another trekking peak in the area. It’s Base Camp will be a nice place to continue our acclimatization. We’ll spend three nights here then trek to Everest Base Camp! It looks like we’ll be “out of range” from the outside world during this time. The next time we expect to check in will be after we’re settled at Everest Base Camp.

We want to thank everybody for all your prayers and support during our journey so far. We look forward to being in touch again soon!!

A Sherpani girl in Pangboche.

Sherpa's in Pangboche cultivating their fields preparing for the upcoming growing season when the monsoons come in June.

Yaks being herded past our route as the snow began to fall en route to Pheriche. Yaks are the local beast of burden in Nepal and Tibet. They normally live above 10,000'.

Fred nearing Pheriche Pass (4218m/13,838') en route to the village of Pheriche in a white out while light snow continued to fall.

Fred (right) and fellow team member Bandar (left) crossing a bridge shortly before arriving at Pheriche.

Fred and Kurt arriving at the Himalayan Hotel in Pheriche, the tea house where they slept in for two nights.

Fred, Brad, Lisa, Vanessa, and Karl enjoying the spectacular views on a day hike above Pheriche.

Kurt and Fred pause on a ridgeline where rocks were stacked to hang prayer flags during an acclimatization day hike above Pheriche.

A Himalayan Griffon souring above checking us out during our acclimatization day hike above Pheriche.

SMI founder and guide Kurt Wedberg with Ama Dablam in the background. Kurt climbed this mountain by the Southeast Ridge in October of 1998.

A group picture at approximately 15,000' during an acclimatization day hike above Pheriche. Fred and Kurt are trekking and sharing Base Camp with them during their Everest expedition. Front row: Kurt, Lopsong Sherpa, Bandar, Brad. Back Row: Kevin, Jan, Andy, Karl, Dwayne, Lisa, Catherine, Mark, Ray, John, Jenni, Justin, Vanessa, Fred, Purna, Mingma, Atte, Furi, and Tashi.

Everest Team Healthy And Moving Well

Posted on April 1, 2012 by Kurt Wedberg - 7 Summits, Himalayas, International Expeditions, Mt. Everest, SMI News

Kurt Wedberg and Fred Simmons on the deck of the Everest View Hotel above Namche Bazaar. The peak to the right is Ama Dablam. Everest is obscured by clouds behind.

Greetings from Namche Bazaar at 3440m/11,286′. This village is located in a small natural amphitheater where three major routes coming from different valleys intersect. The location of Namche makes it a natural center of commerce for the area.

We arrived here on March 29 with the intention of staying here three nights before continuing to higher elevation. We checked in to the Khumbu Lodge, which is a well known tea house where many famous climbers have stayed over the years.

On March 30 we took a day hike to a couple nearby villages that are higher in elevation to see the sights and acclimatize. Our first stop was the Everest View Hotel. As the name suggests it is possible to see Everest from its perch. Clouds obscured Everest but we were able to see several scenic and beautiful peaks including the stunning Ama Dablam (6856m/22,493′), which is known among the mountaineering community as being one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. We sat on the deck of the hotel and sipped hot chocolates while enjoying the vistas before continuing on to the village of Khumjung at 3780m/12,401′. Sir Edmund Hillary was instrumental in building a school here for the Sherpa community back in 1961. Today 500+ kids attend school here from several villages including Namche. The kids in Namche daily walk up and down the 440m/1444′ change in elevation for their education. We visited the school and had lunch before descending back to Namche where we had a little time to relax and hydrate before dinner.

Kurt and Fred at the school at Khumjung (3780m/12,401'). After Sir Edmund Hillary became the first person to reach the summit of Mt. Everest he spent much of his life work to helping the Sherpa community. He helped found many schools including this one in 1961. The statue behind is a monument commemorating Hillary.

March 31 was a rest day for us. We visited the local market where people are selling local vegetables, fruit, meat, and grains. Team members also took time to shop in the tourist markets where they sell Tibetan made wool and silk rugs, yak wool shawls and scarfs, locally made beads, necklaces, yak bells and much more. After lunch, a group of trekkers walked up to the rim of Namche’s amphitheater to visit the Sagarmatha National Park Conservation Museum and the Sherpa Museum that highlights and honors some of the famous Sherpas in mountaineering history.

Feeling healthy and strong we’re ready to pack up tomorrow for our move to the next village up the valley; Deboche at 3820m/12,533′.

Below are a few more pictures taken by Kurt Wedberg. We will keep trying to upload more to the SMI photo gallery at www.kurtwedbergphotography.com.

The village of Namche Bazaar sits in an amphitheater in the mountains of Nepal at 3440m/11,286'.

A Nepali lady at market day in Namche Bazaar.

Yak bells for sale in Namche Bazaar.

Sherpani's conducting business at market day i Namche Bazaar.

Men buying and selling fruit at market day in Namche Bazaar.

A local porter (left) buying fruit at the market in Nmche Bazaar.

The local meat market in Namche Bazaar.

A Nepali man selling hot peppers at the market in Namche Bazaar.

Kids in Khumjung.

Everest Team Is On It’s Way!

Posted on March 28, 2012 by Kurt Wedberg - 7 Summits, Himalayas, International Expeditions, Mt. Everest, SMI News

Fred and Kurt greeted upon arrival in Kathmandu, Nepal.

Kurt Wedberg and good friend of SMI Fred Simmons have embarked on their much anticipated expedition to Mt. Everest! After all the planning and preparation they had one last meal with Fred’s family in Los Angeles then boarded a Thai Airlines flight bound for Kathmandu, Nepal on March 24. We will attempt to share highlights of the journey through this blog. This is the first entry as written by Kurt Wedberg:

Our last meal with Fred's family before flying to Kathmandu.

Fred boarding our Thai Airlines flight to Kathmandu, Nepal.

Greetings from the town of Phakding at 2620m/8596′ in the Khumbu region of Nepal. All the altitudes are in meters here. To convert we multiply by 3.2808.

After 24+ hours of travel from LA to Kathmandu landing on March 26 we spent two nights and one day in Nepal’s capitol city making final preparations before starting our trek into Everest Base Camp. We organized our equipment into gear that will be shipped by yak directly to Base Camp and other necessities that will be used during our 11-day trek. Fred and I have tacked ourselved onto a large tea run by my good friend Eric who has been organizing Everest expeditions for many years. We will be using all their logistics and support and be able to climb on our own schedule.

On March 28 we left our hotel at 4:45am and soon were at the airport where local flights originate from (versus where the international flights go in and out of). A bit of organized chaos ensued as we got 23 people plus 23 duffle bags through security. Shortly after 6am we were called to our flight and boarded a Twin Otter that holds about 15 people. We divided into two groups on separate planes and took off on the 45 minute flight that ended at the village of Lukla at 2840m/9300′ in the Solu Khumbu region of Nepal. This airport is a trip. The runway is angled at 11 degrees. This helps the airplane stop on this short runway. Upon exiting the plane there are several Nepali police officers who love blowing their whistles incessantly as we walk off the tarmac.

The first order of business was to get 23 porters matched with our 23 duffle bags. While that was going on we took some time to have a little breakfast. There are little bakery’s in Luka that have espresso and cinnamon rolls. This mountaineering business is tough work!! At 7:45am we took off on our trek. Today was a very easy trek. We had very little uphill mixed in with mostly downhill hence how we ended up 220 meters lower than where we started. We took a leisurely pace and got to Phakding 3 hours after leaving Lukla.

We’re staying in tea houses. These are little lodges that exist all up and down the Khumbu region. They have simple bedrooms and a dining room. The menus are pretty similar at all of them. There are American dishes like spaghetti, lasagna, pizza, and chips (french fries to you and me). They also have traditional Nepali food including dahl baht (rice with lentils) and momo’s, which are steamed dumplings with vegetables or meat.

For the next day of our trek we plan to hike approximately 6 hours to Namche Bazar at 3440m/11,286′. We plan to spend 3 nights here acclimatizing before trekking farther up the valley towards Everest Base Camp.

We will try to share a few photos from our journey on this blog. This may not always be possible though so we will also have them posted on the SMI Photo Gallery site here: http://www.kurtwedbergphotography.com/International-Expeditions/Everest-2012/22141785_sRN2QC

Upon arrival in Lukla we had espresso and fresh baked goodies at a local bakery before starting our trek.

Kurt at a Buddhist monument along the trekking route.

A young Sherpa watches from a distance as we trek by his home.

Fred crossing a suspension bridge over the Dudh Koshi River.

East African Safari: Plentiful Animals and Great Times!

Posted on February 29, 2012 by Kurt Wedberg - 7 Summits, Africa, International Expeditions, Kilimanjaro, Mt. Kenya, Safari, SMI News

After a successful climb of Kilimanjaro the team said goodbye to Caleb, John, and April. Caleb and John began their journey home. SMI guide April Mayhew stayed behind in Moshi to run in the Kilimanjaro Marathon. Three days after standing on top of Kilimanjaro April placed a very respectable second among female non-Africans then caught up with the rest of the group for the last three days of safari. Congratulations April! The rest of the team took off on a game viewing safari to see up close some of the most fascinating animals on our planet.

Over the course of five days the team visited Lake Manyara, the Ngorongoro Crater, Tarangire National Park, and the great Serengeti Plains. In addition to seeing a wide range of exotic wildlife our safaris are also a rich cultural experience. We spent some time with kids at a local orphanage as has become traditional on our trips. We also visited a local Masai Village where we were treated to traditional Masai dancing ceremonies, saw the mud huts they live in, and we were given the opportunity to purchase jewelry items. We also visited Olduvai Gorge which is rich in archeological history. Bones of many extinct animals have been found in this area. It is also the sight where the archeologists Tom and Mary Leakey discovered the oldest homonid footprints.

Wildlife was prevalent throughout our safari. Below are a few pictures. The entire photo gallery can be found here:

Game Viewing Safari February 25-29, 2012

Rhonda, Kurt, Jackie, and Janet on safari at Lake Manyara National Park.

Two lioness sisters resting in a tree at Lake Manyara National Park.

Male lion in the Serengeti.

Cape buffalo with a stork on its back in Lake Manyara National Park.

Wart hog family in Lake Manyara National Park.

Wildebeest mother and calf. 185,000+ wildebeests are born within a two week period in October each year. This insures the survival of the species.

Male and female impalas at Lake Manyara National Park.

Janet, Rhonda, Kurt, and Jackie in the Ngorongoro Crater.

Female spotted hyena on the Serengeti plains.

Male agama lizard sunning itself on a kopje rock outcropping in the Serengeti.

Grants Gazelle in the Serengeti.

Zebras resting in the Serengeti.

Young teenage elephants in the Serengeti.

When a giraffe bends over to drink it is in its most vulnerable position for predators.

Giraffe eating leaves from an acacia tree in the Serengeti.

Vitelline Masked Weaver at Olduvai Gorge.

Abdim's Stork in the Ngorongoro Crater.

Male Cory Bustard bird puffed up looking for a mate in the Ngorongoro Crater.

Red Collared Widowbird

Egyptian Goose in the Serengeti.

Secretary birds on top of an acacia tree in the Serengeti.

Saddle-billed Stork in the Ngorongoro Crater.

Janet, April, Kurt, Jackie, and Rhonda at our hotel in Karatu during our safari.

Traditionally dressed Masai women during our visit to their village.

Rhonda, Jackie, and Janet were invited to join the Masai ladies in their traditional dance.

Masai warriors conducting a traditional mens dance and jumping ceremony.

A Masai man shows us inside his mud hut where he and his family live while he shares with us their way of life.

Masai jewelry for sale at their village.

Kilimanjaro Summit Success!!

Posted on February 26, 2012 by Kurt Wedberg - 7 Summits, Africa, International Expeditions, Kilimanjaro, Mt. Kenya, Safari, SMI News

February 23, 2012 6:15am. Summit photo on Kilimanjaro. Team members from left to right: Rogati Lucas, Caleb Fiske, Rhonda Bellavia, Kurt Wedberg, Janet Lacey, April Mayhew, Hillary

SMI guides April Mayhew and Kurt Wedberg just returned from Tanzania where they led another successful climb of Kilimanjaro. Team members included Rhonda Bellevia, Caleb Fiske, Jackie Hammitt, Janet Lacey, and John Lafaro. Several team members used this climb as a fundraiser for Big City Mountaineers (www.bigcitymountaineers.org). The money raised will help this well respected organization bring underprivileged and inner city youth on 7 and 8 day backpacking trips this summer.

The team met in Moshi, Tanzania where we spent one day to relax after the long flights, pack our gear for the climb, take a hike in the forest near our hotel, and eat a traditional Chagga meal of banana soup. On February 18 the team took off for Kilimanjaro National Park and the gate at the start of the Umbwe Route which would be our ascent route of the mountain.

Kilimanjaro is the only place in the world where one can pass through five different temperate zones over a 5-day period. We start in a jungle environment at 6000’/1829m and by the time we’ve reached the summit at 19,348’/5895m we’re in the alpine zone. Along the way we were met with every type of weather possible from warm sun to rain, foggy white out conditions to clear days, and we even had some snowfall at the higher elevations. The team adapted beautifully to the changing conditions keeping a great attitude throughout.

For all team members (besides the guides) climbing Kilimanjaro would be a new personal altitude record. It was a joy watching this group of people who came from California, Colorado, New Mexico, and Texas mold into a super fun, supportive, and efficient climbing team over the course of this 7-day climb.

Congratulations everybody on a job well done!!

A few pictures are below. The entire photo gallery can be found here:

Kilimanjaro February 18-24, 2012

The team ready to start the climb of Kilimanjaro at the Umbwe park gate.

The team at a rest break in the jungle on the first day of the climb.

John enjoying a lunch break in the jungle.

Inside the dining tent at the end of day 1. One of the countless jovial moments during this climb.

Kurt Wedberg performing a little first aid on one of our local Chagga staff.

February 19, day 2 of the climb. The team leaves its camp in the jungle at Umbwe Cave headed for Barranco Camp at 3940m/12,926'.

Our first view of Kilimanjaro from the jungle.

Gladiola flower along our route.

Janet Lacey at the front of the team enjoying the hike as the route rises out of the jungle.

Caleb takes time out for a gymnastics workout during our hike!

Jackie enjoying the views as the team rises out of the jungle.

The elated team reaches Barranco Camp at 3940m/12,926'

Jackie hugs a Giant Senacio tree near Barranco Camp.

Barranco Camp with the Western Breach Wall of Kilimanjaro behind.

The team and our Chagga staff enjoying an afternoon game of hacky sack at Barranco Camp.

The team at Lava Tower during an acclimatization hike. An afternoon snowstorm would not dampen this teams spirits.

February 21, day 4 of the climb the team leaves Barranco Camp headed to the next step; Karanga Camp at 3930m/12,893'

Rhonda and Caleb en route to Karanga Camp.

The team arrives at Karanga Camp 3930m/12,893'. Back row: John Lafaro,Hillary, Rhonda Bellavia, Caleb Fiske, Kurt Wedberg, and April Mayhew. Front row: Janet Lacey, Jackie Hammett, and Rogati Lucas.

Sunset over Mt. Meru. The peak is a dormant volcano at 4566m/14,980' about 60 miles away from Kilimanjaro.

February 22, day 5 of the climb. The team packed and ready to leave for Barafu Camp at 4600m/15,100'.

The team enjoying the climb to our high camp.

April Mayhew and Rhonda leading the way close to high camp.

Team members having a cup of hot tea before beginning the summit climb.

Streaking headlamps during the pre dawn hours of the summit climb.

Rhonda and Kurt shortly before dawn as the team reaches the crater rim of Kilimanjaro.

Team members silhouetted as the sun rises over the African plains.

Summit success on Kilimanjaro!!

Kilimanjaro casting its shadow across the African plains at sunrise.

SMI guide April Mayhew standing proud on the crater rim of Kilimanjaro at the start of the descent after guiding another successful ascent of Kilimanjaro; her 3rd ascent in the past year!

Celebration dinner after another successful climb of Kilimanjaro. Congratulations Team!!

Cotopaxi (5897m/19348′), Ecuador November 20, 2011- Perfect Snow Conditions, Big Crevasses, and Cool Views

Posted on November 30, 2011 by Kurt Wedberg - Cotopaxi, Ecuador's Volcanoes, Illiniza Norte, International Expeditions, SMI News, South America

Cotopaxi (5897m/19,348') is the 2nd highest active volcano in the world.

After a great climb of Illiniza Norte our team was ready to head to Cotopaxi. Upon finishing our descent from Illiniza we spent a night close to Cotopaxi National Park in one of the beautiful haciendas Ecuador is famous for. Showers, comfortable beds, and a couple good meals were welcomed by the entire team. The food in Ecuador is always a delight. From a wide variety of fresh fruit to their ají salsa made with a red pepper that goes by the same name there is something to tempt every part of the palate.

Following a restful evening the team drove over dirt roads to Cotopaxi National Park. The road takes us to 4600m/15,091′ dropping us off within a 40 minute walk to the José Ribas Refugio at 4810m/15,780′. Reaching the hut at lunchtime gave us plenty of time to hydrate, snack, and get settled in preparation for our summit attempt the following morning. An early dinner of pizza with fresh vegetables was followed by one last hot drink then to sleep. We woke in the middle of the night to begin our ascent in anticipation of a 7+ hour climb to the summit. Weather was cool and calm. Under a blanket of stars we strapped crampons to our mountaineering boots and left the refugio with headlamps on to aid in navigating the terrain. 60 minutes of climbing brought us to the entrance of an unnamed glacier. Here we divided into rope teams and began carrying ice axes. The heavily glaciated terrain normally has large crevasses that require careful navigation. Snow conditions under foot were as good as we could ask for offering solid purchase for our crampons. Picking our route through the glacier made for fun and exciting climbing. Taking breaks at regular intervals to hydrate and refuel we found ourselves well over 18,000’/5500m as the stars above gave way to the approaching sunrise. We put our headlamps in our packs, put on sunscreen, and continued picking our way through the icy glaciated terrain. We crossed over large crevasses with depths of over 100’/30m and surmounted steep ice walls that reached 45+ degrees. The upper reached of the route had us climbing on the west side of the peak keeping us in shade. As we climbed atop Cotopaxi’s crater rim we were treated to the warming rays of direct sunlight for our final steps to the summit.

With a warm calm morning we took time to relax for a few minutes before taking pictures, hydrating, eating some food, and enjoying the incredible views that Cotopaxi offers from its summit.

A few pictures from our climb are below. The entire photo gallery from our Ecuador trip can be found here: Ecuador’s Volcanoes November 14-24, 2011

Hacienda in the foothills near Cotopaxi National Park.

Llamas grazing near Cotopaxi National Park

The team at the entrance to Cotopaxi National Park.

The team en route to the José Ribas Refugio.

Team members arriving at the refugio.

Sunset from the refugio.

The team geared up and ready to climb Cotopaxi.

Climbing at 18,000+ feet as it became light enough to not need headlamps.

SMI guide April Mayhew high on the route.

Gary Maxwell surrounded by big crevasses and cool views!

Jairo and April climbing around a crevasse on the route.

Gary Maxwell topping out on Cotopaxi.

Jairo taking the last steps towards the summit of Cotopaxi.

April topping out on Cotopaxi with Jairo close behind.

Kurt, Gary, Jairo, and April on the summit of Cotopaxi.

Cotopaxi's double crater as seen from the summit.

Inspiring views and fun climbing on Illiniza Norte (5126m/16,817′), Ecuador November 18, 2011

Posted on November 27, 2011 by Kurt Wedberg - Ecuador's Volcanoes, Illiniza Norte, International Expeditions, SMI News

From left to right: April Mayhew, Gary Maxwell, Kelly Tucker, Kurt Wedberg, and Jairo Marin pause for a photo on the foothills below Illiniza Norte, Ecuador.

After finishing a great trip to Mexico’s Volcanoes SMI guides April Mayhew and Kurt Wedberg flew from Mexico City to Quito, Ecuador to guide climbs on the volcanoes located within this beautiful equatorial country. Gary Maxwell, Jairo Marin, and Kelly Tucker rendezvoused in Quito, which is at an elevation of 2800m/9186 ‘. Acclimatization was the first order of business. The team took a couple of hikes on peaks outside of Quito where we were treated to beautiful vistas of the Ecuadorian countryside. We also attended an intense soccer game between the national teams of Peru and Ecuador. After a couple good days of acclimatization we then headed to Illiniza Norte.

The climbing on Illiniza Norte is mainly scrambling over rocky terrain. Ropes are used for safety. Negotiating the upper reaches of the mountain required picking our way up excellent hand and foot holds on steep terrain with moderate exposure in spots. The route was fun and offered a great sense of accomplishment. After this climb the team would be well set up for climbing Cotopaxi in a couple days!

A few pictures are below. The entire Ecuador photo gallery can be found here: Ecuador’s Volcanoes November 14-24, 2011

It's always nice to stretch the legs after international flights. The team enjoys their first day hike in the hills above Quito, Ecuador

The team hiking towards Rucu Pichincha (4698m/15,413').

The Chuquirahua flower grows between approximately 3000-4000m in Ecuador. This beautiful wildflower is the symbol of mountaineering to the Ecuadorian "alpinistas".

The team on an acclimatization day hike to Pasochoa (4200m/13,779').

The team traversing along the crest of Pasochoa where the dramatic difference in vegetation is proudly displayed between opposing exposure to the elements.

The team starting up the rock scrambling on Illiniza Norte.

Gary, Jairo, and Kelly enjoying the climb of Illiniza Norte.

Gary, April and our good friend Romulo from Ecuador high on Illiniza Norte.

Gary, Jairo, and Kelly on the summit of Illiniza Norte with Illiniza Sur behind to the left.

April and Romulo on the summit of Illiniza Norte.

Summit Success on Mexico’s Volcanoes!

Posted on November 14, 2011 by Kurt Wedberg - International Expeditions, Iztaccihuatl, Mexico's Volcanoes, Orizaba, SMI News

Orizaba team summit photo at 9:30am on 11-11-11. From left to right: Rick Piette, April Mayhew, Mickey Jojola, Lloyd Charton, Miriam Diaz, John Baer, and Kurt Wedberg

Our annual trip to Mexico’s Volcanoes was another big success with 100% of the team reaching the summits of both Iztaccíhuatl and El Pico de Orizaba!

Our team met in Mexico City on Friday November 4, 2011. After a nice dinner and a walk around the center of the city on a clear warm night we were ready to depart on Saturday for Iztaccíhuatl. We stayed true to our successful acclimatization schedule we have been using in previous years. After spending three days taking hikes to increasingly higher elevation we found ourselves at the high refugio along the “La Arista del Sol” route at 4780m/15,682’. We bedded down after an early dinner in preparation for our pre-dawn start for summit day. Waking in the wee hours we were greeted to a pleasantly calm windless night with mild temperatures. With headlamps aiding us in our route finding shouldered our rucksacks carrying warm clothes, ice axes, crampons, climbing helmets, harnesses, ropes, snacks and water for the day. Several hours of climbing brought us high on Iztaccihuatl’s flanks as we were greeted to a beautiful sunrise to the east. We applied sunscreen and sunglasses then kept a slow steady pace up the beautiful ridgeline offering stunning views that leads to the summit. The crisp calm air on the summit afforded us the opportunity to take a few minutes to relax and enjoy the views before taking summit photos and starting our descent. We were back to the refugio 10 ½ hours after we set out for the summit. Here we took a break to rehydrate then packed up our gear for the descent back to the trailhead. Another three hours of walking led us to the base of our route where we were picked up and whisked off to the city of Puebla to clean up and celebrate a successful climb with a good meal.

On November 9 the team organized gear and traveled to the town of Tlachichuca. This quaint village sits at the base of our next objective; El Pico de Orizaba, which at 5611m/18,410’ is the 3^rd highest peak in North America. We had the afternoon to reorganize our gear and take a walk around town while sampling local food including local fruit and fresh guacamole.

On November 10 we loaded our gear into a 4×4 vehicle for the drive through the rural Mexican countryside that leads us to the Pierdra Grande hut at 4260m/13,976’. SMI guide April Mayhew cooked pizzas for dinner while clouds swirled outside. Weather had changed from the calm and clear conditions we had on Iztaccíhuatl to cloudy and cool here on Orizaba. We packed the same equipment we needed on our previous climb and got a few hours of sleep in preparation for our summit attempt.

Clouds had partially dissipated revealing stars and an almost full moon. The team made a final check of equipment then began with headlamps on. The route begins by picking a way through a trail lined with volcanic rock. After a couple hours of climbing we reached continuous snow that required ice axe/crampons and divided into two rope teams led by SMI guides April Mayhew and Kurt Wedberg. Our route continued through a labyrinth of snow and volcanic rocks that led to the final 2000’/610m of climbing. Here the route opens up to the Jamapa Glacier that wraps around Orizaba’s flanks of this classic cone shaped dormant volcano. Above we saw evidence of high winds as cloud banks repeatedly swelled and shrank over the summit crater. Temperatures dropped significantly as we climbed into a steady cold wind that the open glacier offered no protection from. Adding windbreakers, heavy gloves, goggles, and eventually our puffy down parkas our team took careful deliberate steps in the crunchy snow. Conditions on the glacier made for secure footing with our crampons as the sun rose and cast a shadow over the rural Mexican farm fields far below. We would stay in shade until reaching the crater rim which presented the challenges of keeping our feet and hands warm. Cutting switchbacks for our route offered is the opportunity to continuously switch which hand held our ice axes, which helped us warm each free hand since the cold from our ice axes was conducting through our gloves. Each team member did an excellent job adjusting to the challenging conditions and as we crested on to the crater rim we were greeted by the warming rays of direct sunlight. Here we took a food/water break and applied sunscreen before traversing around the crater rim to its highest point. The location of the summit gave us a respite from the brunt of the wind which allowed us a few minutes to take pictures and enjoy the view from the 3^rd highest point in North America that we reached at 9:00am on 11-11-11!

Temperatures warmed for us on the descent and we were back to Piedra Grande by 11:40am. Our drivers took us back to Tlachichuca for showers and a nice meal. On Saturday we drove back towards Mexico City by way of the Teotihuacan pyramids. It is always nice to learn about the history and culture from these exotic destinations we visit on SMI international expeditions.

A big congratulations to the entire team on two great climbs on Mexico’s Volcanoes: John Baer, Lloyd Charton, Miriam Diaz, Mickey Jojola, April Mayhew, Rick Piette, and Kurt Wedberg.

A few pictures are below. The entire photo gallery can be found here: Mexico’s Volcanoes November 4-13, 2011.