They’re at Camp 3 and chilling. All are safe and healthy. They will be there till tomorrow when they go for the summit.
Will report more when I get it.
They’re at Camp 3 and chilling. All are safe and healthy. They will be there till tomorrow when they go for the summit.
Will report more when I get it.
From April’s DEL ORME post on FB this morning…
“Buen dia del Campo Uno! Team made quick work of our carry to Camp 2 (18000′). Now we’re celebrating with a picnic & a nap in this fine sun. Enjo your day!”
The SMI (SZALKIEWCZ) TEAM of JAN 2014 has reached BASE CAMP successfully and carrying loads to CAMP 1. Appears the weather is holding as it did for last months successful DEC 2014 SMI/BCM TEAM.
Keep your fingers crossed that the weather remains good for their advance onto the Summit!!!
Our first Aconcagua expedition is safely down after a 15-day expedition that saw us reach the summit on a beautiful windless day.
After flying to Mendoza, Argentina the team began the 3-day trek into Base Camp carrying light packs and being supported by mules. The team battled through many days of strong winds and some snowy days early on in the trip but were able to keep forward progress inching closer to a high camp that put us in position for our summit bid.
Climbing Aconcagua does not require any “technical skills”. It’s challenges lie in dealing with high altitude, changeable weather, cold temperatures, carrying heavy loads, and taking care of yourself in the mountain environment. As the team moves higher the strategy is to keep acclimatizing and staying healthy in the increasingly rarefied air.
After spending a few nights at Base Camp (4200m/13,747′) the team slept at the following elevations: Camp 1 – 5090m/16,700′, Camp 2 – 5480m/17,979′, Camp 3 – 5970m/19,586′. We kept the schedule steady and methodical trying to not exceed averaging a faster jump in elevation than 1000’/300m in a 24 hour period. We were turned back on our first attempt to sleep at Camp 1 when a storm brought fresh snow and high winds during our climb. We retreated back to Base Camp, took a rest day to regroup and get back our energy then moved up to Camp 1 on the following day after the storm cleared.
Strong winds high on the mountain revealed themselves day after day with big snow plumes blowing off the Polish Glacier that decorated our skyline view. They didn’t prevent us from moving into position for a summit attempt though. As the team’s health remained good we kept to our schedule and hoped when we were ready for a summit attempt the weather would settle down. Our patience paid off and we found ourselves settling into Camp 3 with only a light breeze and clear skies on December 14. The team prepped for the summit day, had an early dinner, and got into their sleeping bags before it got dark.
Waking before sunrise SMI guide April Mayhew started the stoves to make hot drinks and breakfast while Kurt checked on the group and made sure everybody was ready for the big day. The sky displayed a vast array of stars and no clouds while the weather was crisp and calm. As we started out at 5:30am the horizon showed the first hints of light from the sun rising casting an orange glow over the far reaching skyline.
The thin air required deep breathing in the cold air in a steady rhythm of 1-2 breaths per step. By the time we would reach the summit it was 3-4 deep breaths per step. The team took breaks at regular intervals where they ate, drank, and took in the spectacular views Aconcagua offers. Eventually we found ourselves taking a break at “The Cave” at 22,000’/6700m. Above is the Canaleta Chute making up the last 841’/250+m to the summit. The route weaves it’s way through boulders and snowbanks culminating at the summit.
The team did a great job showing tenacity and lots of sticktoitiveness over a very respectable 7 1/2 hour climb to the summit. Calm weather allowed the team to relax on the summit to enjoy the views, take photos, eat, and drink. After a generous 45 minutes or so on the summit the team began packing up and then retracing their steps back to high camp.
The following day they descended to Base Camp and took advantage of the opportunity to hire a helicopter to fly directly back to their hotel in Los Penitentes where much deserved showers awaited. On December 17 the team was back in Mendoza celebrating at 1884 Francis Mallmann, the nicest restaurant in Mendoza and the perfect way to put the icing on the cake of a great expedition.
Congratulations team on a job well done!!
A few pictures are below. The entire photo gallery can be found here:
The TEAM is safely down and on their way back to MENDOZA as I write. They should be in direct contact with all Family and Friends some time this afternoon here in CONUS.
Again, a hearty well done & congratulations to all SMI/BCM TEAM Members on their amazing accomplishment and success of climbing Aconcagua.
The SUMMIT SHOT!
The TEAM SUMMITS on the 15th!!! 100% success on a picture perfect morning …. no wind and clear as a bell. They are all safe and sound and on their way down to Base Camp. Should all be back in Mendoza either on the eve of the 17th or morning of the 18th. Photo’s to follow!!!
Congratulations to:
Natalie Bybee
Brandon Kibby
Nathan Fletcher
Ed Saenz
And of course SMI’s Kurt Wedberg and April Mayhew!!
A big WOHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!
The SUMMIT SHOT!
The SMI/BCM Team led by Kurt and April, has made it successfully to Base Camp and have been doing some acclimatization hikes the past two days. They are all doing well and are very excited to begin the actual climb tomorrow. They will be headed up to Camp 1 and will remain there for the day early in the morning. The weather has been stormy and windy. That has not deterred them what so ever. Onward they go. They all send their love to all the families and friends back here in CONUS.
Greetings from Bishop, CA! We hope this finds everybody well and enjoying the fall season. After a busy summer and fall we have been hard at work planning for 2014. We have also launched a new web site for your viewing pleasure. We invite you to have a look and come with us on a trip!
As of this writing SMI guides April Mayhew and Kurt Wedberg are off to Argentina for an Aconcagua expedition. Back home in the Sierra the weather is getting cold and we’ve seen some of our first significant snowfall. We’re gearing up for winter time activities including ice climbing, backcountry skiing, and avalanche courses.
Here is a brief listing of some of our upcoming offerings for 2014. We hope to see you on a trip with us in 2014!
Aconcagua: Trip #1: November 29 – December 17, 2013, Trip #2: December 27 – January 17. We still have a couple openings on both of our upcoming expeditions to the highest mountain in South America.
Mt. Kenya: February 1-10, 2014. A technical rock climb up the second highest mountain in Africa. The climbing ranges from low 5th class up to 5.7. It’s in a beautiful, remote, and wild setting overlooking the beautiful East Africa jungles.
Kilimanjaro and Safari: February 11-25, 2014. A 7-day climb of the highest mountain in Africa combined with a game viewing safari where we see some of the most spectacular wildlife on our planet!
Mt. Whitney: Winter/spring 4-day climbs and summer 3-day climbs of the highest mountain in the contiguous United States.
Ice Climbing Courses: Ice is forming now in Lee Vining Canyon and June Lake. Come up and discover the exhilaration of climbing ice in these premier destinations.
Avalanche Classes: Learn essential skills to evaluate snow conditions in backcountry travel. We also include rescue training using transceivers and probes.
On December 28 SMI guides April Mayhew and Kurt Wedberg met Alan Bagley, Andrew Burg, and Scott Evans in Mendoza, Argentina where they staged for an expedition to the highest mountain in the Western Hemisphere. They spent the day securing climbing permits, packing gear, and organizing trip food.
On December 29 they started off from the trail head at Punta de Vacas at 2400m/7874′. It will be a 3-day trek in to Base Camp at 4200m/13,747′. Here is their planned itinerary:
Dec 29: Hike from trailhead at 7874 feet to Pampa de Lenas at 9514 feet
Dec 30: Hike to Casa de Pierdra at 10,630 feet
Dec 31: Hike to Plaza Argentina at 13,747 feet. This is our Base Camp.
Jan 1: Rest day, take small acclimatization hike
Jan 2: Acclimatization hike, prepare loads for higher camps
Jan 3: Carry load to Camp 1, return to Base Camp
Jan 4: Move to Camp 1 at 16,732 feet
Jan 5: Rest and acclimatization day hike
Jan 6: Carry load to Camp 2, return to Camp 1
Jan 7: Move to Camp 2 at 19,127 feet
Jan 8: Rest and acclimatization day, prepare for summit bid
Jan 9: Summit bid
Jan 10: Extra day built in for weather/acclimatization
Jan 11: Extra day built in for weather/acclimatization
Jan 12: Extra day built in for weather/acclimatization
Jan 13: Return to Plaza Argentina Base Camp
Jan 14: Hike to Pampa de Lenas
Jan 15: Hike to trailhead, spend night at Los Penitentes
Jan 16: Drive to Mendoza
They will be calling in updates via satellite phone. We will try to post reports as we hear from them.
After a great climb of Illiniza Norte our team was ready to head to Cotopaxi. Upon finishing our descent from Illiniza we spent a night close to Cotopaxi National Park in one of the beautiful haciendas Ecuador is famous for. Showers, comfortable beds, and a couple good meals were welcomed by the entire team. The food in Ecuador is always a delight. From a wide variety of fresh fruit to their ají salsa made with a red pepper that goes by the same name there is something to tempt every part of the palate.
Following a restful evening the team drove over dirt roads to Cotopaxi National Park. The road takes us to 4600m/15,091′ dropping us off within a 40 minute walk to the José Ribas Refugio at 4810m/15,780′. Reaching the hut at lunchtime gave us plenty of time to hydrate, snack, and get settled in preparation for our summit attempt the following morning. An early dinner of pizza with fresh vegetables was followed by one last hot drink then to sleep. We woke in the middle of the night to begin our ascent in anticipation of a 7+ hour climb to the summit. Weather was cool and calm. Under a blanket of stars we strapped crampons to our mountaineering boots and left the refugio with headlamps on to aid in navigating the terrain. 60 minutes of climbing brought us to the entrance of an unnamed glacier. Here we divided into rope teams and began carrying ice axes. The heavily glaciated terrain normally has large crevasses that require careful navigation. Snow conditions under foot were as good as we could ask for offering solid purchase for our crampons. Picking our route through the glacier made for fun and exciting climbing. Taking breaks at regular intervals to hydrate and refuel we found ourselves well over 18,000’/5500m as the stars above gave way to the approaching sunrise. We put our headlamps in our packs, put on sunscreen, and continued picking our way through the icy glaciated terrain. We crossed over large crevasses with depths of over 100’/30m and surmounted steep ice walls that reached 45+ degrees. The upper reached of the route had us climbing on the west side of the peak keeping us in shade. As we climbed atop Cotopaxi’s crater rim we were treated to the warming rays of direct sunlight for our final steps to the summit.
With a warm calm morning we took time to relax for a few minutes before taking pictures, hydrating, eating some food, and enjoying the incredible views that Cotopaxi offers from its summit.
A few pictures from our climb are below. The entire photo gallery from our Ecuador trip can be found here: Ecuador’s Volcanoes November 14-24, 2011