Month: May 2009

Mt. Sill, Apex Couloir 14,153′, 4314m

March 23-25, 2009

We were treated to clear weather in the Sierra backcountry over Memorial Day weekend this year.  Chuck Raper, Patricia Twomey, and Dustin Wunderlich joined guides Rick Poedtke and Kurt Wedberg for a classic climb in the Palisades region of the Sierra.

Mt. Sill is one of the few Sierra peaks that was named by the indigenous Piaute indians who inhabited the Owens Valley.  Their name for it was “Nee-na-mee-she” which is translated “Guardian of the Valley”.  Today it is a classic 14er in Californa and the view from its summit is considered one of the finest in the entire Sierra.

Our route was the Apex Couloir on Mt. Sill.  This route is also called the “North Couloir” but since there are so many couloirs that go by that name I prefer calling it the Apex Couloir.  The snow conditions remain excellent in the Palisades right now.  We were treated to four pitches of climbing at 40 – 45 degrees.  We then exited the route to the right where we climbed a pitch of 3rd to low 5th class rock that led to one more pitch of 50+ degree snow.  One final 4th class pitch led to the ridgeline on Mt. Sill where we scrambled up to the summit.

Here are a few pictures.  The entire gallery can be viewed here:  http://kurtwedberg.smugmug.com/gallery/8329693_LrcYi/1/545818744_wQKSG

The Palisade Glacier with Mt. Sill on the left.

The Palisade Glacier with Mt. Sill on the left.

Left to right:  Rick Poedtke, Chuck Raper, Patricia Twomey, Dustin Wunderlich, Kurt Wedberg

Left to right: Rick Poedtke, Chuck Raper, Patricia Twomey, Dustin Wunderlich, Kurt Wedberg

Chuck and Dusty on the 3rd pitch of the Apex Couloir.

Chuck and Dusty on the 3rd pitch of the Apex Couloir.

Chuck and Dusty at the belay ledge at the top of the 4th pitch.

Chuck and Dusty at the belay ledge at the top of the 4th pitch.

Chuck and Dusty climbing near the top of the 5th pitch.

Chuck and Dusty climbing near the top of the 5th pitch.

Chuck and Dusty nearing the top of the 6th pitch.

Chuck and Dusty nearing the top of the 6th pitch.

Chuck and Dusty at the belay station at the top of the 6th pitch.

Chuck and Dusty at the belay station at the top of the 6th pitch.

Chuck and Dusty rock climbing on pitch 7.

Chuck and Dusty rock climbing on pitch 7.

Chuck and Dusty nearing the classic summit of Mt. Sill with a breathtaking view of the Sierra all around.

Chuck and Dusty nearing the classic summit of Mt. Sill with a breathtaking view of the Sierra all around. It is easy to see why this peak is known for offering one of the finest views in the Sierra!

 

High five on the summit of Mt. Sill!

High five on the summit of Mt. Sill!

Summit photo.  Left to right:  Dustin Wunderlich, Kurt Wedberg, Chuck Raper.

Summit photo. Left to right: Dustin Wunderlich, Kurt Wedberg, Chuck Raper.

Level 1 Avalanche Course

May 18-20, 2009

By special request we organized a late season Level 1 Avalanche Course.  As springtime is well under way here in the Eastern Sierra the warming temperatures and increasingly longer days guide people’s thoughts towards summertime activities.  Up in the high country there is still lots of snow and avalanches are still a very real danger.  It is easy to get complacent during this time of year even though the danger is still there.

A few pictures are below.  The rest of the photo gallery can be viewed here:  http://kurtwedberg.smugmug.com/gallery/8291502_bRHrW/1/542926864_dNqEr

View of the High Sierra at the South Lake Trailhead. Theres still a lot of snow in the high country!

Practicing a search for a buried person withh a transceiver, probe, and shovel.

Practicing a search for a buried person withh a transceiver, probe, and shovel.

Testing for reactive layers in the snowpack using a shovel compression test.

Testing for reactive layers in the snowpack using a shovel compression test.

Examining snow crystals through a magnifying glass.

Examining snow crystals through a magnifying glass.

Skinning up Old Mans Bowl near Mt. Morrison where we will conduct some tests on the snowpack.

"Skinning" up Old Man's Bowl near Mt. Morrison where we will conduct some tests on the snowpack.

The reward for climbing up a mountain is making turns in the untracked snow!

The reward for climbing up a mountain is making turns in the untracked snow!

Mt. Whitney, Mountaineer’s Route 14,497′, 4418m

May 14-17, 2009

We had a great climb of Mt. Whitney via the Mountaineer’s Route.  We were treated to warm, clear, and calm weather for the entire trip.  To allow for plenty of acclimatization and some training on techniques we planned a 4-day trip.  There was plenty of snow from Iceberg Lake and higher but it is melting fast in the Sierra right now.

The entire photo gallery is here:  http://kurtwedberg.smugmug.com/gallery/8241408_UdZae/1/539107184_oLihd

Mt. Whitney, Mountaineers Route

Mt. Whitney, Mountaineer's Route

John Rogitz, Bill Simon, Ralph Buoncristiani, and Michael Tate geared up and ready for the climb!

Ralph, Bill, and John on the last pitch of the Mountaineers Route

Ralph, Bill, and John on the last pitch of the Mountaineer's Route

Ralph, Kurt, John, and Bill on the summit of Mt. Whitney

Ralph, Kurt, John, and Bill on the summit of Mt. Whitney

Mike, Ralph, and Bill getting settled in the tent

Mike, Ralph, and Bill getting settled in the tent

North Palisade Peak, Clyde Couloir

North Palisade Peak, Clyde Couloir

North Palisade Peak, Clyde Couloir

 

Chuck Raper high in the Clyde Couloir

Chuck Raper high in the Clyde Couloir

May 11-13, 2009

Our first trip into the Palisades this year was to climb the Clyde Couloir with Chuck Raper.  The weather was clear with high winds.  The route is in great shape at the moment.  The bergshrund on the Palisade Glacier is easily crossed and the current snow conditions in the chute are supurb.

The entire photo gallery is here:  http://kurtwedberg.smugmug.com/gallery/8202780_q54pC/1/535974139_p4ykZ

Mt. Langley, NE Couloir 14,042′, 4280m

Mt. Langley, NE Couloir

Mt. Langley, NE Couloir

 

Rick & Brian on the NE Couloir of Mt. Langley

Rick & Brian on the NE Couloir of Mt. Langley

Rick & Brian on the summit of Mt. Langley

Rick & Brian on the summit of Mt. Langley

May 1-3, 2009

Brian Bentrott, Rick Putnam, and Kurt Wedberg climbed the NE Couloir of Mt. Langley.  This was a training climb for Rick’s upcoming Mt. McKinley climb in June.  Under a windy and stormy day we climbed the 40+ degree chute to the summit of Mt. Langley.

The entire photo gallery is here:  http://kurtwedberg.smugmug.com/gallery/8095299_4rxz8/1/527546726_5Nhjg