Month: July 2012

Charlotte Dome (10,690’/3258m) III, 5.8 July 28-30, 2012

Posted on July 31, 2012 by Kurt Wedberg - Alpine Rock Climbing, Charlotte Dome, Sierra Nevada, SMI News

Vicki Schwantes, Christy Grimsley, Erin Carey, April Mayhew, and Kurt Wedberg (front) at the top of Charlotte Dome after a truly memorable alpine rock climb!

Finishing off a week of alpine rock climbing training we chose to climb Charlotte Dome located deep in Sequoia Kings Canyon National Park. This impressive dome offers 1200’+ of rock climbing on superb granite in an exceptionally exhilarating setting. It is no wonder this climb has long been considered a classic among Sierra alpine climbers.

This climb is best done as a 3-day trip. The first day is an enjoyable backpack out of Onion Valley and over Kearsarge Pass (11,823’/3603m). Surmounting this pass is the highest elevation encountered on the entire trip. The trail then drops down above Kearsarge Lakes and intersects briefly with the famous John Muir Trail en route to Charlotte Lake. We chose to set up camp here in mid afternoon. This left the team plenty of time to take a swim in the lake and relax on a warm pleasant afternoon typical of summer Sierra conditions. An early dinner followed and the team was sacked out as night fell.

On day 2 the team woke before sunrise and navigated the approach to the base of Charlotte Dome by headlamp. The trail quickly turns into a faint “route” as it descends approximately 1000′ of elevation over a 2 hour period. Arriving at the base of the route after the sun came up the group divided into two teams, roped up, and began navigating the 12 pitches of rock climbing the route requires. Excellent quality granite is prevalent throughout the climb and a variety of rock climbing techniques are employed including face moves on friction in small solution pockets, crack climbing, and much more. The route lends itself to slinging small granite horns and “chicken heads” in addition to placing traditional rock climbing protection including nuts and cams. After climbing into the late afternoon the team arrived at the summit psyched on completing such a classic route! After summit photos and a snack all that was left was to descend off the back side and retrace the approach route back to camp at Charlotte Lake.

Day 3 was devoted to packing up and backpacking over Kearsarge Pass en route to the Onion Valley trailhead. An casual leisurely pace allowed the team plenty of time to enjoy the magnificent Sierra backcountry scenery and reflect on a truly memorable adventure up an all time Sierra classic route!

Congratulations Erin, Christy, and Vicki on a job well done!!

A few pictures are below. The entire photo gallery can be found here:

Charlotte Done July 28-30, 2012

At the Onion Valley Trailhead ready to start our adventure. From left to right: Erin Carey, SMI guides April Mayhew and Kurt Wedberg, Vicki Schwantes, and Christy Grimsley.

The team atop Kearsarge Pass offering an exhilarating view into Sequoia Kings Canyon National Park.

Christy, Vicki, Erin, and Kurt arriving at beautiful Charlotte Lake (10,370'/3160m).

The team ready for the predawn start to approach Charlotte Dome.

Erin examining the route near the end of pitch #5.

Christy topping out on pitch #6.

Vicki finding the route on pitch #9.

SMI guide April Mayhew getting ready to lead pitch #8 while Christy and Erin manage the belay station.April, Erin, and Christy sharing an elated moment as they reached the summit of Charlotte Dome.

A happy and satisfied team poses for a summit photo after a job well done!

Alpine Rock Climbing Training July 24-27, 2012

Posted on July 27, 2012 by Kurt Wedberg - Alpine Rock Climbing, Crystal Crag, Sierra Nevada, SMI News

Crystal Crag above the town of Mammoth Lakes.

Starting on July 24 Erin Carey, Christy Grimsley, and Vicki Schwantes traveled from Washington DC to join SMI guides April Mayhew and Kurt Wedberg on a 7-day alpine rock climbing seminar. The goal was to learn skills and techniques applicable to the backcountry alpine environment. Over the course of a week we spent a couple days reviewing gear placements, anchor set ups, and rock rescue skills then put them into practice on climbs of Cyrstal Crag, the North Ridge of Mt. Conness, and Charlotte Dome. We covered a lot of ground in seven days and it was a lot of fun for all. There are separate write ups for our climbs of Mt. Conness and Charlotte Dome. Here are a few pictures of our days reviewing skills. The entire photo gallery is here:

Alpine Rock Climbing Training July 24-27, 2012

SMI guide Kurt Wedberg discussing gear placements.

SMI guide April Mayhew discussing anchor set ups for multi pitch alpine climbing.

Vicki conducting a mock rescue of Christy during our rock rescue practice.

Vicki and Christy during our climb of Crystal Crag.

North Ridge of Mt. Conness (12,590’/3837m) III 5.6

Posted on July 27, 2012 by Kurt Wedberg - Alpine Rock Climbing, Mt. Conness, Sierra Nevada, SMI News

Team summit photo on top of Mt. Conness.

After spending two days working on alpine rock climbing skills with Erin, Christy, and Vicki it was time to put some techniques into practice on some real alpine climbs. Our first objective was the North Ridge of Mt. Conness. Mt. Conness is located in Tuolumne Meadows on the edge of Yosemite National Park. The North Ridge is an enjoyable classic Sierra alpine climb positioned high enough to offer views as far as Half Dome into Yosemite Valley and many more prominent peaks in all directions. This climb has it all including fun climbing on high quality granite, two rappels off the 2nd Tower along the route, and exhilarating scenery throughout.

The group divided into two teams led by SMI guides April Mayhew and Kurt Wedberg. The goal was much more than just to climb the route in good style. It was to pass on as many climbing techniques as possible to help the team develop efficient climbing habits for use in alpine terrain where time, weather, and route finding are all critical to a safe and successful climb.

The climb went extremely well. A few pictures are below. The entire photo gallery can be found here:

The North Ridge of Mt. Conness July 26, 2012

The team on the trail near Saddlebag Lake en route to the North Ridge of Mt. Conness.

Taking a break on the approach with the North Ridge of Mt. Conness on the skyline.Vicki and Erin on the start of the North Ridge.Erin rappelling off the 2nd Tower.

Erin and Vicki high on the North Ridge of Mt. Conness.

SMI guide April Mayhew approaching a belay station on the North Ridge.

Erin and Vicki making some of the final moves near the top of the North Ridge.

A yellow bellied marmot greeting us at the summit of Mt. Conness.

Thunderbolt Peak (14,003’/4268m) and Starlight (14,200’/4328m) July 19-21, 2012

Posted on July 22, 2012 by Kurt Wedberg - Alpine Rock Climbing, California 14ers, Sierra Nevada, SMI News, Starlight Peak, Thunderbolt Peak

The team ready to hike the Bishop Pass trail en route to Palisade Basin. Left to right: Nathan Fletcher, SMI guides Doug Nidever and Nathan Wylie, Chuck Fields, Matthew Peacore, Rob Filback, Randy Hill, and SMI guide Kurt Wedberg.

There are 15 peaks in California above 14,000′ in elevation. 13 of these “14ers” are in the Sierra Nevada. We have many clientele who come to climb these lofty peaks. This group assembled was here to “knock off” a couple of the California 14ers.

On day 1 the team hiked over Bishop Pass (11973’/3649m) then turned south climbing over Thunderbolt Col and down into Palisade Basin where camp was set. An early dinner was followed by final packing and preparations for the climbing in the morning.

On day 2 the team rose early with the intention of climbing Thunderbolt Peak via SW Chute #1 then traversing along the crest of the Palisades to Starlight before descending back to camp. SW Chute #1 consists of 3rd class climbing requiring the use of hands and feet mixed in with easier terrain. Where the notch tops out the route turns south and ascends two short pitches of 4th class rock leading to the final summit block. A rope was put up to allow all team members the opportunity to climb the 5.8 summit block then the team packed up and began traversing towards Starlight.

The traversing is a fun mix of scrambling, down climbing, and rappelling. The climbing is exposed in spots but never rising above low 5th class in difficulty. While a rope is used for protection and safety many people who climb these routes with us have had minimal formal rock climbing training.

After arriving at Starlight the climb involves ascending the “Milk Bottle”, which is a short 5.7 friction face climb. Once again we anchored a rope in place and each team member had the opportunity to ascend this beautiful pinnacle of rock.

With the climbing finished the team descended back to camp and enjoyed a nice dinner before having a well earned sleep! On July 21 the team packed up and headed back to the parking lot arriving mid afternoon.

Congratulations to all for a job well done! A few pictures are below. The rest of the pictures are here:

Thunder Peak and Starlight July 19-21, 2012