Category: Starlight Peak

SMI Guides are back in action!

Mt. Whitney Summit!

SMI guides are ecstatic to be back guiding trips in the Sierra! We have spent this spring during the pandemic staying in shape, keeping sharp with our skills, and honing our craft. With things starting to open up again we are ecstatic to be once again outside sharing adventures in the Sierra Nevada with our guests.

The Sierra Nevada is our home, our back yard, and our favorite mountain range in the world. The possibilities for adventure and solitude are endless. Try ticking off some of our California 14ers on our Palisades trips, or the exhilaration from one of our classic alpine rock climbs. Learn to transfer your indoor climbing skills to the outdoor realm on one of our rock climbing programs, or discover pristine destinations in the Sierra Nevada through one of our customized backpacking trips! Whatever your desire the Sierra Nevada has it all!

During the month of July join any SMI trip in 2020 and receive a free custom SMI UPF 50+ Buff!

Thunderbolt Peak (14,003’/4268m) and Starlight (14,200’/4328m) July 19-21, 2012

The team ready to hike the Bishop Pass trail en route to Palisade Basin. Left to right: Nathan Fletcher, SMI guides Doug Nidever and Nathan Wylie, Chuck Fields, Matthew Peacore, Rob Filback, Randy Hill, and SMI guide Kurt Wedberg.

There are 15 peaks in California above 14,000′ in elevation.  13 of these “14ers” are in the Sierra Nevada.  We have many clientele who come to climb these lofty peaks.  This group assembled was here to “knock off” a couple of the California 14ers.

On day 1 the team hiked over Bishop Pass (11973’/3649m) then turned south climbing over Thunderbolt Col and down into Palisade Basin where camp was set.  An early dinner was followed by final packing and preparations for the climbing in the morning.

On day 2 the team rose early with the intention of climbing Thunderbolt Peak via SW Chute #1 then traversing along the crest of the Palisades to Starlight before descending back to camp.  SW Chute #1 consists of 3rd class climbing requiring the use of hands and feet mixed in with easier terrain.  Where the notch tops out the route turns south and ascends two short pitches of 4th class rock leading to the final summit block.  A rope was put up to allow all team members the opportunity to climb the 5.8 summit block then the team packed up and began traversing towards Starlight.

The traversing is a fun mix of scrambling, down climbing, and rappelling.  The climbing is exposed in spots but never rising above low 5th class in difficulty.  While a rope is used for protection and safety many people who climb these routes with us have had minimal formal rock climbing training.

After arriving at Starlight the climb involves ascending the “Milk Bottle”, which is a short 5.7 friction face climb.  Once again we anchored a rope in place and each team member had the opportunity to ascend this beautiful pinnacle of rock.

With the climbing finished the team descended back to camp and enjoyed a nice dinner before having a well earned sleep!  On July 21 the team packed up and headed back to the parking lot arriving mid afternoon.

Congratulations to all for a job well done!  A few pictures are below.  The rest of the pictures are here:

Thunder Peak and Starlight July 19-21, 2012

The team traversing towards Thunderbolt Col with Duzy Basin behind.

Descending to Palisade Basin after Thunderbolt Col.

Evening alpenglow on the Palisade Crest.

Randy climbing the final 4th class pitches to the summit of Thunderbolt Peak.

SMI guide Doug Nidever climbing the summit block on Thunderbolt Peak.

Rob standing atop the summit block on Thunderbolt Peak.

Randy and Matthew on the traverse to Starlight with the Palisade Glacier far below.

The team pauses for a quick food/water break during the traverse from Thunderbolt to Starlight.

Standing on top of the "Milk Bottle" that is Starlight Peak!

 

Starlight Peak August 8-10, 2011 – Congratulations Ed on Completing the CA 14ers!!

On August 8-10 our good friend of SMI Ed Saenz visited us for his long anticipated completion of the California 14,000’ peaks.  Ed started this quest a few years ago and has steadily ticked them off his list.  The last of them was Starlight Peak (14,200’/4328m) in the Palisades region of the Sierra.  The crux of this climb is the “Milk Bottle”.  This pinnacle of rock is about 40’/12m high.  It is airy and exposed and offers a great sense of accomplishment.  Also joining us on this climb was Cory Cline who has been steadily “knocking off” the California 14ers.  This would be his 9th summit.  SMI guides Trevor Anthes and Kurt Wedberg rounded out the team.

The approach to this climb took us out of South Lake on the Bishop Pass trail.  After gaining Bishop Pass (11,972’/3649m) we traversed south towards Thunderbolt Col then down into Palisade Basin where we set up camp.  An early dinner was followed by packing and crawling into our sleeping bags in preparation for our climb the following day.

Starting daybreak we climbed into the mouth of the Northwest Chute, roped up, and began climbing the 3rd and 4th class terrain that leads to the Milk Bottle.  The day broke clear and calm with pleasant temperatures.  The team moved well and we found ourselves arriving at the Milk Bottle in the late morning.  Ed and Kurt arrived first.

Upon arrival they wasted no time in preparing to climb the Milk Bottle. Taking a belay from Ed, Kurt climbed the 5.7 pinnacle to the top.  The climb is unprotected meaning there is nowhere to place any gear until the top of the pinnacle is reached.  Anchoring the top are a sling plus a ¼” bolt so our climbing rope can be slung through a solid point allowing the others to climb the Milk Bottle with a “top rope” belay. Cory and Trevor arrived soon after and everybody took a turn climbing the Milk Bottle that makes up Starlight Peak.  Pleasant temperatures allowed us to stay on top for a while eating lunch and enjoying the view before descending back to camp.

On day 3 we packed up and hiked back out to South Lake.

That evening the team had the pleasure of celebrating Ed’s successful completion of all 15 California 14ers with a big dinner at Whiskey Creek in Bishop.  This is a big accomplishment for any Sierra mountaineer to achieve.  Ed also made it a point to help others along the way by raising money for two worthy causes:  Friends of Frankie and the Widows’ and Orphans’ Aid Association.  Friends of Frankie is an organization founded to help out Frankie Shouldice, who is a young boy currently suffering from leukemia.  Widows and Orphans Aid Association is a San Francisco based organization founded to help out families that have lost a parent who worked as an officer for the SFPD by providing financial aid and scholarship support. If you would like to donate to these worthy causes you may do so by sending checks made payable to “Friends of Frankie” or “Widows’ and Orphans’ Aid Association” to: Officer Ed Saenz C/o San Francisco Police Dept 301 Eddy St. San Francisco, CA 94102

Congratulations Ed on a job well done!!  A few pictures are below.  The entire photo gallery from the climb can be found here:  Starlight Peak August 8-10, 2011.

The team at Bishop Pass on August 8. From left to right: Trevor Anthes, Ed Saenz, Kurt Wedberg, and Cory Cline.

Cory followed by Ed on the approach to Thunderbolt Col.

Trevor cooking up a delicious dinner of fresh pasta and vegetables on August 8.

Evening light on the Palisades Crest. Above is Starlight Peak, North Palisade Peak, and Polemonium Peak.

Trevor and Ed on the Northwest Chute.

Trevor and Cory traversing across 3rd class ground on the climb of the Northwest Chute that leads to Starlight Peak.

Ed happy to be getting the first rays of sun on our climb.

Cory taking advantage of secure footing on the 3rd class terrain in the Northwest Chute.

Ed nearing the top of the Milk Bottle.

Ed standing atop the Milk Bottle!!

Ed lowering off the Milk Bottle after tagging the summit!

Cory sitting on top of the Milk Bottle.

This makes 9 of the 15 California 14ers accomplished for Cory!!

Trevor takes a turn standing on top of the Milk Bottle.

After setting up the top rope Kurt takes another run at the Milk Bottle.

Kurt making pizzas back at camp.

Ed and Kurt happy back at the South Lake trailhead. Congratulations Ed!!

Thunderbolt Peak to Starlight Traverse September 24-26, 2010

On September 24-26, 2010 Brian Corrigan and Erik Peterson joined Kurt Wedberg for a climb of a couple classic 14ers in the Palisades region of the Sierra.  Here in the Sierra we were treated to summer temperatures over 10 degrees above normal for this time of year.  On September 24 we hiked over Bishop Pass and camped in Palisade Basin.  On day 2 we got a pre dawn start climbing Southwest Chute #1 on Thunderbolt Peak.  After reaching the summit we traversed south along the crest of the Palisades towards Starlight Peak.  After climbing Starlight we descended back to Palisade Basin for a nice dinner before going to sleep.  On day 3 we retraced out steps hiking back over Bishop Pass to the parking lot at South Lake.

The Palisades from Palisade Basin. Thunderbolt Peak is just out of view on the left. Starlight and North Palisade Peak are above.

Left to right: Kurt Wedberg, Erik Peterson, Brian Corrigan

Brian and Erik taking a break at Bishop Pass (11,972', 3694m).

Kurt climbing the summit block on Thunderbolt Peak.

Brian on top of Thunderbolt Peak's summit block.

Erik atop Thunderbolt Peak.

From the summit of Thunderbolt Peak looking along the Palisade Crest towards Starlight Peak.

Brian atop Starlight Peak

Erik surmounting the "milk bottle" that makes up Starlight Peak.

Kurt atop the "milk bottle" on Starlight Peak.

Palisades Traverse August 30 – September 1, 2009 (Thunderbolt Peak – North Palisade Peak)

Benjamin Bauman had been up all of California’s 14ers except a couple in the Palisades.  He wanted to finish climbing them all in 2009.  We climbed Thunderbolt Peak via Southwest Chute #1 and traversed south across the range and climbed Starlight Peak and North Palisades Peak then descended west via the U Notch back to our camp in Palisade Basin.  That left one remaining peak on Ben’s list:  Polemonium Peak which was scheduled for October to be climbed via the U Notch Couloir from the east side approached by crossing the Palisade Glacier.

The entire photo gallery from the trip is here:  http://kurtwedbergphotography.com/Sierra-Trips/2009-Sierra-Trips/Palisades-Traverse-Aug-30-Sep/9487697_c6B3Y/1/637000473_3VxbU

Thunderbolt Peak, Starlight, and North Palisade Peak from our camp in Palisade Basin

Thunderbolt Peak, Starlight, and North Palisade Peak from our camp in Palisade Basin

Ben on the final 3rd class section of Thunderbolt Peak

Ben on the final 3rd class section of Thunderbolt Peak

Ben climbing the final summit block on Thunderbolt Peak

Ben climbing the final summit block on Thunderbolt Peak

Ben topped out on Thunderbolt Peak!

Ben topped out on Thunderbolt Peak!

Looking south along the crest of the Palisades from the summit of Thunderbolt Peak.  The milk bottle that makes up Starlight Peak is silhoutted against the skyline on the right.

Looking south along the crest of the Palisades from the summit of Thunderbolt Peak. The "milk bottle" that makes up Starlight Peak is silhoutted against the skyline on the right.

Descending to the notch in between Thunderbolt Peak and Starlight

Descending to the notch in between Thunderbolt Peak and Starlight

Traversing on the way to Starlight

Traversing on the way to Starlight

The Milk Bottle

The Milk Bottle

Kurt on top of the Milk Bottle

Kurt on top of the Milk Bottle

Ben on the traverse towards North Palisade Peak

Ben on the traverse towards North Palisade Peak

Ben on the summit of North Palisade Peak

Ben on the summit of North Palisade Peak