Category: International Expeditions

Aconcagua, December 11

Upon arrival at camp one Dec 8 three days ago we got settled in and the next day took a hike to 17050 feet and it was a successful acclimatization hike.

That evening the winds picked up in a big way and our tents were hit by gusts up to 80 miles an hour

This wind storm has continued unabated ever since.

Last night and this morning we had wind gusts that pushed a hundred miles an hour.

When we arrived at camp one on Dec 8, I calibrated my Suunto Core altimeter watch to 16700 feet it has since risen over two hundred feet and this morning it was reading 16965 feet. This would indicate a substantial drop in barometric pressure.  The good news is, the team remains in great spirits and we are using this opportunity to acclimatize while remaining strong and healthy in anticipation of more favorable climbing weather to come.

We received a weather forecast calling for drastically reduced winds as soon as tomorrow. Assuming this is the case we anticipate moving up to camp two sometime in the next couple of days and preparing for a summit attempt soon after.

Thanks  to everybody at home for your prayers and positive thoughts, we can feel the love all the way here at 16700 feet on Aconcagua.

Aconcagua, December 9

The team made it to camp one on Tuesday Dec 8 at 16700 feet.

We set up tents and settled into camp and everybody was feeling great at dinner that night.

Today, we woke up and took a acclimatization day hike to 17700 feet.

Everybody on the team did an excellent job and everybody is acclimating very well.

This hike put us in position for our next move, which will be to carry loads to camp 2 at 19127 feet.

If weather remains good we anticipate sleeping at camp two some time in the next two to three days.

We will assess a summit attempt after that.

Currently we are back at camp one after our acclimatization day hike and April is preparing a cheese tortellini dinner for the team.

Thanks to every body at home for all your support and we will check in again sometime soon.

Camp 1

Aconcagua, December 7

The team left the Vacas valley trailhead on Dec 2 and had a beautiful 3 day hike into Aconcagua base camp at 13,747 feet

On Dec 5th we rested and acclimated and on Dec 6 we took our first acclimation day hike to 15300 feet.

Dec 7th we carried loads to camp 1 at 16,700 feet

Tomorrow our plan is to move up and sleep at camp 1.

Everybody on the team is doing great we miss everyone at home. Bill Fred and Ralph say hello to their spouses Cindy Olga and Danielle

Thanks you everybody for your thoughts and prayers

We will update again in a couple days.

The team will venture up the Vacas Valley for the next two days. The Vacas River is a glacier fed river that has its origins at 18,000+ feet on the flanks of Aconcagua.

Our trail sometimes goes right next to the river and sometimes climbs above it offering pretty views of the winding Vacas River below. The color of the river is made from silt that comes from the glacier where the river begins.

The lower part of the Vacas Valley is decorated with many pretty wildflowers along our trail.

The mules arriving at Camp 1.

Aconcagua, December 1

This morning the team had breakfast then packed up and drove from Mendoza to the resort village of Los Penitentes located at 8465’ / 2580m.  The drive took approximately three hours.  Upon arrival we spent the afternoon organizing all our food and equipment for the trek into Base Camp.  The trek will take three days to reach Base Camp at 13,747’/4200m.  Our equipment needed to be packed into loads to be carried by mules onto the mountain.

After finishing all our organization and packing we had some time to relax before having dinner.  The team enjoyed a nice pizza and salad dinner.

After all the planning and preparation leading up to this trip the time has come to start our climb.  We are all psyched and ready to start walking!!

Thanks to everybody for at home for your prayers and support.  We will try to update this blog when we can.

A couple pictures from today are below.

The team loaded up and ready for the drive from Mendoza to the resort village of Los Penitentes at the base of Aconcagua.

Los Penitentes

The team in Los Penitentes

Ralph, Bill, and April in the midst of organizing our gear for the mountain. All our equipment needs to be divided into loads that will be carried by mules for the 3-day trip to Base Camp

Bill and April discussing final load preparations.

Ralph loading barrels with our food and equipment that will be carried by mules into Base Camp.

All our loads are carefully packed so each piece weighs between 20-30 kilos.

The teams equipment and food for the next 2+ weeks on Aconcagua packed and ready to go!!

With all our gear packed the team enjoys a nice meal of pizza and salad.

Aconcagua November 30 – The team has arrived in Mendoza, Argentina!

The team arrived in Mendoza, Argentina today after leaving on flights that originated in the United States yesterday.  The flights took us to Santiago, Chile where we changed planes for a quick flight over the Andes to Mendoza.  April and Kurt arrived yesterday and spent the day taking care of last minute logistics and purchased food for the expedition.  Today they finished up logistics then went to the airport to meet Bill, Fred, and Ralph for their arrivals.  After getting settled in the hotel we payed a visit to the Ministry of Tourism where we secured our climbing permits.  It is now required for every team member to be present to receive your climbing permit.

With permits secured we had time to relax in this laid back South American city that strictly observes such rituals as “siesta”.  Virtually all merchants are closed between 1:30 – 5:30 PM.  Siesta provided a nice time for the team to relax at an outdoor cafe and enjoy appetizers and a drink while soaking in the afternoon sun.  Temperatures are pleasant this time of year allowing us to comfortably wear shorts and t-shirts even in the evening.

We ate dinner across from La Plaza de Independencia and took a stroll through the park before retiring to bed.

Tomorrow we will drive to Los Penitentes, which is a resort village located at the base of Aconcagua.  Here we will unpack our luggage and prepare our food and equipment for the climb.

A couple pictures from the day are below.

April, Ralph, and Fred at the permit office in Mendoza.

Ralph, Bill, and Fred checking out our route at the permit office in Mendoza.

With the permit process complete the team relaxes at an outdoor cafe in Mendoza.

Bill enjoying relaxation and good conversation in Mendoza.

Ralph

Fred

A neon sign in La Plaza de Independencia in the heart of Mendoza welcomes us.

Dinnertime Mendoza style. Outdoors and enjoying the summertime evening we toasted to a nice trip with anticipation of many memorable adventures ahead.

April sampling a glass of famous Mendoza wine while enjoying good conversation at dinner in Mendoza.

Lit up fountains decorate La Plaza de Independencia at night in Mendoza.

The team enjoying an after dinner evening stroll through La Plaza de Independencia.

Aconcagua December 2010 – We’re on our way!!

Our first Aconcagua expedition for the 2010/2011 season is on its way!  Ralph Drollinger, Fred Simmons, and Bill Simon will be joined by April Mayhew and Kurt Wedberg.

The team will fly from the United States and meet as a group in Mendoza, Argentina on November 30.  After securing climbing permits we will drive to Los Penitentes where we will organize our gear to be carried by mules for the 3-day trek into Base Camp.

The team spent the last couple of days organizing last minute details in Los Angeles before flying.

A couple pictures are below.  Stay tuned for updates to our expedition!!

The team having fun shopping for last minute items at Adventure 16 in West LA. From left to right: Ralph Drollinger, Kurt Wedberg, Alia Mohsenin (A16's stellar veteran salesman and expert boot fitter), Bill Simon, and Fred Simmons.

Ralph needed specially modified crampon to fit his size 17 boots. A metal expert designed extra long bars to give the crampons enough length. Kurt and Ralph used material purchased at Adventure 16 to manufacture straps that were long enough to fit around the boot.

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Bill Simon doing his best Maxwell Smart agent 86 imitation with one of Ralph's crampons turned "crampon phone".

The team in Bill Simon's office organizing personal equipment for the climb.

Bill and Kurt in Bill Simon's conference room turned gear packing room discussing equipment selection for this expeditions

Kurt and Ralph with Denni Cohen. Denni is Bill's #1 administrative assistant and came in to double check that all final details were taken care of before we left. Thanks Denni!!

Ralph and Danielle Drollinger inspecting one of the expedition tents.

After finishing shopping and packing for the expedition Ralph Drollinger questioned the regulation height of Bill Simon's basketball court.

April Mayhew making sure we don't miss Ralph's arrival at the Mendoza airport!

First lunch in Mendoza!

Mexico’s Volcanoes November 5-14, 2010

Orizaba from the the rural countryside above the town of Tlachichuca.

Our yearly trip to Mexico’s Volcanoes was another huge success.  We climbed two volcanoes in a 10 day period, visited the pyramids at Teotihuacan, and got to experience the warmth and hospitality of the Mexican people.

This trip was also used as a fundraiser for Big City Mountaineers.  This organization takes underprivileged urban teens on seven and eight day backpacking trips during the summer months.  They hold a series of climb each summer the call Summit For Someone which raises money for Big City Mountaineers.  SMI has worked with Big City Mountaineers since they began doing fundraising climbs.  We lead several trips each year for this worthy organization.  Besides Mexico’s Volcanoes we also lead climbs to Mt. Whitney, North Palisade Peak, and Mt. Langley each year for BCM.  In February 2011 we will also be leading one to Kilimanjaro!!

The Team on an acclimatization day hike below Iztaccihuatl. From left to right: Kurt Wedberg, Kyle Gerecke, Bret Siciliano, Brandon Kibby, JP Latkovic, Jason Cahill, Miriam Diaz

After meeting up in Mexico City we drove to the town of Amecameca which sits at the base of our first mountain Iztaccíhuatl (17,158’/5230m).  A couple days of acclimatization hikes would put us in to position for a summit attempt on “Ixta”.  Iztaccíhuatl is the name the Aztec’s gave this mountain, which translated means “white woman”.  This mountain resembles a women laying on her back when viewed from a distance.  “White” refers to snow that covers the upper reaches during certain parts of the year.

Iztaccihuatl 17,158'/5230m

We ascended “The Knees Route” which climbs past Ixta’s knees onto her belly where the summit is located.  On summit day we were treated to a clear crisp morning.  Snow conditions were excellent.  We got a predawn start and found ourselves high on the peak as the sun rose giving us a beautiful backdrop as we ascended the partly snowy and rocky terrain that leads to the summit.

Kyle, Bret, and JP navigating the terrain on summit day on Iztaccihuatl.

The lights of the city of Puebla shortly before sunrise. The early morning light silhouettes El Pico de Orizaba in the distance.

Kyle and Brandon climbing the ridge at sunrise high on Iztaccihuatl.

Miriam, Bret, and JP climbing the "belly" high on Iztaccihuatl.

Miriam, Bret, and JP traversing the summit ridge of Iztaccihuatl at 7:10 AM

Summit photo on Iztaccihuatl November 9, 2010 7:30 AM

After successfully reaching the summit we descended back the same way with views of neighboring volcano Popocatepetl in front of us and our next objective Orizaba visible to the east.

The team descending Iztacchuatl pauses to view our next objective: El Pico de Orizaba. We would be standing its summit three days later.

An iron cross with Popocatepetl in the background. Crosses have been placed on most of Mexico's volcanoes by the Grupo de los Cien (The group of the 100) made up of Catholic priests who are mountaineers.

Orizaba is the highest mountain in Mexico and the third highest in all of North America at 18,410’/5611m.  Only Mt. McKinley in Alaska (20,320’/6194m) and Mt. Logan in Canada (19,550’/5959m) are higher than Orizaba on this continent.  It is a classic cone shaped volcano flanked by glaciers on all sides.

Our team drove south and east to the small town of Tlachichuca near the base of El Pico de Orizaba.

The team in Tlachichuca at the base of Orizaba.

Here we geared up and took a 4-wheel adventure drive through the rural Mexican countryside then ascended through pine tree forests before emerging above timberline to the Pierdra Grande Hut at 14,000’/4267m.  Our route was the Jamapa Glacier that ascends the cone’s north side to the crater rim.  We traverses a short distance west to the highest point on the rim.

Orizaba from the rural countryside below.

The team fired up and ready for the pre dawn start of our ascent of Orizaba.

Kyle, Brandon, and JP climbing high on summit day with Orizaba casting its morning shadow on the rural Mexican countryside thousands of feet below.

View looking North East towards the Gulf of Mexico from 17,500'/5334m on Orizaba.

Bret, Jason, and Miriam pausing for a break at the crater rim on Orizaba.

JP, Brandon, and Kyle at the crater rim of Orizaba.

Our elated team having just reached the top of the 3rd highest mountain in North America.

Proudly displaying the Big City Mountaineers flags the team gathers for a photo on summit of Orizaba. Back row: Jason Cahill, JP Latkovic, Miriam Diaz, and Bert Siciliano. Front row kneeling: Kurt Wedberg, Brandon Kibby and Kyle Gerecke.

After our climbs the team drove back to Mexico City by way of the Teotihuacan pyramids.  Teotihuacan is located 25 miles north of Mexico City and contains some of the largest pyramidal structures in the Pre-Columbian era.  The pyramids are thought to have been completed between 200 BC and 100 AD and this city is believed to have had up to 200,000 inhabitants at its height in the 7th to 8th centuries.  We took some time to climb the Pyramid of the Sun and the Pyramid of the Moon, see some of the paintings that are still preserved here, tour some of the archeological sites, and walk the Avenue of the Dead.

From the Pyramid of the Moon looking down the Avenue of the Dead with the Pyramid of the Sun left.

The team on top of the Pyramid of the Sun with the Pyramid of the Moon behind.

We then returned to Mexico City for dinner.  We happened to be there during Mexico’s bicentennial celebration.  The center of the city was filled with an elaborate well done light show and music.  Seeing the celebration was icing on the cake to a wonderful and very memorable trip!

Lights during Mexico's bicentennial celebration.

The entire photo gallery can be found here:  Mexico’s Volcanoes November 5-14, 2010

Mt. Elbrus July 20-30, 2010 Wrap Up

The 2010 Mt. Elbrus team has returned to the United States safe and sound.  It was a fun filled trip that packed a lot into 10 days.  Our goal was to reach the summit of Mt. Elbrus and return safely.  We accomplished that plus toured parts of St. Petersburg and Moscow.  We will carry memories from this great adventure for years to come.

We reached the summit of Mt. Elbrus on July 26 at 12:20pm.  Congratulations to John Rogitz and Bill Simon on reaching the top of Mt. Elbrus, the highest point on the European continent!!

Here are a few pictures from this truly memorable adventure.  The rest of the pictures can be found at the SMI photo gallery here:  Mt. Elbrus July 20-30, 2010.

4:30am: John and local Russian climber Gia gearing up at the start of summit day.

Gia, Bill, and John climbing at 15,700', 4785m. The full moon was a nice added decoration to the backdrop of our climb that morning.

Sunrise painting the clouds in morning colors over the Caucuses

Casting across the Caucuses Mt. Elbrus's morning shadow reaches up to kiss the moon.

Climbing at 16,500', 5029m the sun's morning rays tickling the summits of many peaks in the Caucuses adds to the dramatic landscape during our climb.

The sun's warming rays greets the team on summit day at about 16,800', 5120m

Traversing into the saddle in between the east and west summits of Mt. Elbrus

Bill expressing the sheer joy of high altitude mountaineering with the dramatic backdrop of the Caucuses behind.

Taking a rest break at the saddle as a cloud moved in creating low visibility white out conditions.

John gearing up for the final push to the summit

Roped up together it's all business for the steep crux section of the route. Approaching 18,000', 5486m there is half the available oxygen as there is at sea level. Climbers take 2-3 breaths for each step up hill. Concentration coupled with a steady methodical pace is the most efficient way to climb in the increasingly rarefied air.

Above the crux the terrain opens onto a plateau that leads to the summit of Mt. Elbrus. Kurt, John, and Bill know they are close now.

Kurt, John, and Bill reaching the final 40', 12m hill to the summit.

Topping out on the summit of Mt. Elbrus

Reaching the summit of a high peak is always an emotional, spiritual, and very powerful experience

From left to right: Gia, John, Bill, and Kurt on the summit of Mt. Elbrus.

Thanks guys for a great climb!!

Mt Elbrus July 25

After a successful hike yesterday the team slept well last night.  Everybody has been acclimating well and showing no signs of having trouble with the altitude.

We ate a good breakfast of fresh apples and oranges, toast, quesadillas, and granola then got ready for our next hike.  The goal was to get to 15,500′, 4724m.

At 9:40 we left the Diesel Hut under cloudy skies and warm temperatures.  As we climbed the weather would alternate between cloudy and sunny.  When the weather cleared we were treated to magnificent views.  Even when a cloud moved in we never had any precipitation.  The thermometer on my Suunto Core watch/wrist top computer read in the mid 60s when the sun was out and about 10-20 degrees cooler when a cloud surrounded us.  Overall the weather was pleasant conditions to hike in.

We hiked in 1 hour stretches then took breaks to eat and drink.  This procedure is also part of our training since this is how we intend to climb on summit day.  Taking a steady pace with regular breaks to refuel is the most efficient way to climb a big mountain.

Elbrus from the Diesel Hut

After 4 hours we reached our high point of 15,500′, 4724m.  We took a 15 minute break then descended back to the Diesel Hut.

Although clouds obscured the summit all day we noticed a few people had reached the top and were descending past us.  The pleasant weather we had for hiking was apparently good enough for reaching the summit.  This was good news.

Upon returning to the hut we discussed making a summit attempt tomorrow.  The weather forecast is for similar conditions tomorrow as we had today.  Everybody is feeling great after our latest hike so the decision has been made to try for the summit in the morning.  We used the afternoon to organize our gear.  We ate an early dinner then went to bed at 6pm.

We are psyched and ready for our summit attempt tomorrow!