Category: International Expeditions

Training For Mountaineering

Training For Mountaineering

Training for mountaineering is critical for safety and success

What Is Mountaineering?

Mountaineering is the pursuit of recreation in the mountains.  This can take many forms:  peak ascents, hiking, rock climbing, ice climbing, trail running, backpacking, and skiing, to name a few.  Mountaineering is an all-encompassing word for all of these activities, with each of them being a subset of the whole.

Mountaineering often requires performing at a variety of intensity levels at high elevation in changeable weather. Proper training is the foundation for executing a safe and rewarding climb. While each of these activities may require a specific skill set, they all require a combination of movement efficiency, strength, and endurance.

Summit day on Mt. Whitney's Mountaineers Route
A stunning morning during a winter ascent of Mt. Whitney’s Mountaineers Route (14505’/4421m). Climbing this route requires learning a specific set of snow climbing skills but also requires endurance to successfully complete this 4-day climb.

PERFORMANCE =

Movement Efficiency + Strength + Endurance

Training For Mountaineering – Movement Efficiency

High On Mt. Whitney's Mountaineers Route
Train on talus, boulder fields, and loose off-trail ground if your mountaineering objective contains a lot of this type of terrain.

Performance in the mountains is highly dictated by movement efficiency. An efficient climber with low current fitness will always outperform a fit climber with poor movement skills.

When training for mountaineering, the most effective way to become efficient with your movement is to log time on the type of terrain you’d like to perform on. This is critical for success. Take every opportunity to train on terrain that resembles your objective as closely as possible. This includes walking on trails, soft snow, firm snow, talus (boulder fields), and loose off-trail terrain. It also includes technical terrain if your objectives include rock or ice climbing.

There are no shortcuts for developing movement efficiency. It takes time. The more time you spend on complex terrain the greater your gains will be. This is a much overlooked but critical component to consider when developing your training plan.

Rock Climbing Training
Top-roping laps at a local crag is an excellent way to train for long alpine rock climbs such as the North Ridge of Mt. Conness pictured below.
Stunning views high on the North Ridge of Mt. Conness!
Stunning views high on the North Ridge of Mt. Conness, grade III 5.6 alpine rock climb! Enjoying epic climbs like this is the reward for the time invested in proper training.

Training For Mountaineering – Strength

Strength supports all other athletic activity because it allows you to do MORE objective specific training by developing tissue capacity. Strength training:

  • Makes bones, muscles, tendons and cartilage stronger, thicker and stiffer.
  • Develops effective and efficient transfer of force.
  • Creates a ceiling of capacity thus reducing the likelihood of injury.
  • Increases endurance by developing a higher ceiling of potential

Strength and endurance are strongly linked

Reaching the summit of a mountain requires taking thousands of steps uphill. Each uphill stride while wearing a 30lb pack places significant stress on the legs, knees, hips, and spine. This movement is essentially a single leg squat done at varying depths, which is dictated by the steepness of the terrain. Therefore, successfully summiting a peak entails linking together thousands of these weighted squats. Effective training in a gym will help make each step in the mountains use less energy because you’re developing a surplus of strength.

For example: “Marvelous Martha” and “Mountaineer Mike” are on a 12-hour summit day together. They will take thousands of steps, each of which pushes them towards their strength ceiling.

Marvelous Martha can back squat 160-pounds for 5 reps. Every step she takes uphill wearing a 30-pound pack uses approximately 25% of her strength reserve. She’s working at 1/4 of her strength ceiling for this climb.

Mountaineer Mike can back squat 60-pounds for 5 reps. Every uphill step he takes wearing a 30-pound pack uses 66.67% of his strength reserve. He’s spending the entire day working at 2/3 of his strength ceiling!

Which climber is more likely to perform better, all other things being equal?

Squat
Strength supports all other athletic activity. Supportive strength training is simple and helps build athletic stiffness and strength that helps boost performance and decreases the risk of injury.

Training For Mountaineering – Endurance

Kilimanjaro Summit Photo
Kilimanjaro is 19340’/5895m. Climbing Kilimanjaro requires fitness and endurance but no technical skills. During this magnificent 7-day climb the route passes through 5 climate zones starting off in a jungle and reaching an alpine environment. A proper training program focusing on endurance and loose terrain is one of the best ways to set yourself up for success to reach the summit of this spectacular peak.

The goal with endurance training for mountaineering is to develop a program that progresses towards the physical requirements of our specific objectives. Endurance training accomplishes two things:

  1. Develops the cardiovascular and circulatory systems to effectively supply oxygen to the working muscles.
  2. Builds structural resilience in the joints (especially the hips and knees) and spine to handle the stress of the objective. 

As with strength training we build endurance through the stress/recovery/adaptation model. Each training session places stress on the body. With appropriate recovery, the body adapts and can support slightly more work. With a well thought out schedule, the body will continue to adapt to the new training load and your endurance will improve.

For example, your goal is to climb Mt. Whitney in 2-days via the Mountaineers Route. This climb requires ascending and descending from 8350′ to 14505′ over 14-miles. This is 6155′ of elevation gain over 7-miles to the summit, then the equivalent distance and elevation loss to return. Attempting this climb “off the couch” with no training will put the body into a state of deep fatigue with a high chance of sustaining an injury. However, starting with a manageable hike then gently increasing the distance and elevation, then allowing for adequate recovery between sessions, the body develops the capacity and resilience to climb Mt. Whitney safely, and have much more fun doing it!

Know your aerobic threshold

The most efficient way to develop endurance is to use a slow, steady approach maintaining a heart rate under your aerobic threshold. There are many methods for determining your aerobic threshold, but a great place to start uses the ‘Maff Method’ by subtracting your age from 180. In this method a 40-year old’s aerobic threshold is a heartrate of 140 (180 – 40).  A 40-year-old athlete would stay at a heart rate of 140 or below when training.

Training at or just under the aerobic threshold:

  • Develops the strength, size and pumping capabilities of the heart.
  • Enhances the structure of the capillary network throughout the body.
  • Develops metabolic adaptions to the mitochondria; the powerhouse of the muscle cells.
  • Increases the body’s effective use of fuel/food for energy at the objective pace at which you intend to climb.

To cross-reference this intensity you should be able to have a full conversation when training. If you cannot speak with complete sentences, then it’s likely you’ve moved above your aerobic threshold sweet-spot. Keep in mind, this is a great place to start and a good trainer can refine this and personalize a training plan based on your history and trajectory.

Aerobic Zone Training
Training in the aerobic zone.

Progression Is Paramount!

Progression is one of the KEY elements in any training plan. An appropriate progression allows the body to absorb the training, recover, then adapt to a new level of performance. For the body to gain strength and endurance we need to continually add stress to our training.

For endurance training, unlike strength training, we generally add volume rather than intensity to build our progression. Each week we add distance and/or elevation to our hikes/runs. On the first week of our training cycle we might complete 3 endurance sessions at or near our aerobic threshold heart rate:

  • 1st Session: A comfortable 5-mile hike carrying a packed loaded with 20-pounds and 1000′ of elevation gain on terrain as close as possible to our season objective. This hike took 2.5 hours.
  • 2nd Session: 4-mile trail run with 1000′ of elevation gain. This run took 1.5 hours
  • 3rd Session: 6-mile jog around the city. This run took 1.5 hours.

Week 1 totals: 5 hours in the aerobic zone with 2000′ feet of elevation gain.

2nd Week: Add 5-10% to this total.

3rd Week: Continue this progression moving towards your objective time/distance/elevation. You can use distance or time to build your progression. Both are effective.

Week 3 or 4: Rest week with a reduction in volume of 40%.

Final weeks: Leading up to your objective taper and cut the volume down by 20-30% per week.

What about high-intensity training?

High Intensity Interval Training (HIIT) is more specialized and complicated and therefore needs to be delicately programmed into your plan. Although useful in small amounts for specific circumstances, following the above recommendations will develop a high level of performance for mountaineering. HIIT does not replace slow steady training in an endurance program. Because of this HIIT is viewed at the icing on the cake but not something to be emphasized.

What about core training?

Isolated core exercises have very limited cross-over to sport specific performance in spite of what many in the fitness industry assert. The strength program suggested above with the squat/pull/press will strengthen muscles in the body to work effectively because they will work together. Beyond this, effective development of the core is achieved by practicing the sport you’re training for. A rock climber develops effective core tension by rock climbing. There are certain circumstances when a specific core strength exercise might be useful and a trainer can help work through a specific problem. If there’s not a good reason for doing it, then it’s not worth spending the resources on it.

In Conclusion

We encourage you to enjoy the process of developing an understanding of how your body responds to training. The results will become apparent within weeks of starting out and motivation is rarely a problem moving forwards.

About the Authors

Simon Moore
Simon Moore is a mountain guide and founder of Vertical Ascents offering coaching and training for rock climbers, alpinists, skiers, and endurance athletes.
Training For Mountaineering, Kurt Wedberg
Kurt Wedberg is a 34-year veteran mountain guide and the founder of Sierra Mountaineering International, Inc. Based in Bishop, CA along the slopes of the beautiful Eastern Sierra, they offer guiding and instruction from beginning through advanced levels in:

Why Climb Mountains

Why Climb Mountains

SMI Founder Kurt Wedberg shares some thoughts on why he’s so passionate about climbing mountains

Why climb mountains? Amid all the hardships COVID brought to our lives, the pandemic of 2020 offered the opportunity for many folks to discover mountaineering.  For the first time people are learning benefits that generations of outdoor lovers have known for decades.  A few of those priceless lessons include invaluable benefits for physical, mental, and spiritual health.  It’s also a great way to make meaningful friendships, and see first hand the importance of protecting our environment. Furthermore, it teaches lessons that can be applied to everyday life.

Mountaineering for physical health

Mountaineering requires a general level of endurance and strength.  The cardiovascular and muscular systems are strengthened over time.  Getting into a regular routine increases energy and stamina.  This in turn adds to the enjoyment and expands opportunities for new and bigger adventures; all while gaining improved health!

Kurt Wedberg on the crater rim of El Pico de Orizaba (18410’/5611m), Mexico. The reward for training is experiencing remote and stunning views such as this one high above the Mexican countryside on top of the highest volcano in North America.

Why Climb Mountains: Healthy Diet

There’s nothing like partaking in endurance activities to motivate a good diet.  The human body needs food full of nutrients to function well.  Meal planning is critical.  Unhealthy food will not provide the fuel necessary for long summit days.  Mountaineering creates a great opportunity to explore new foods and develop habits that can be used in everyday life.

Fresh food for fuel. The author’s fuel for a typical Sierra summit day.
Bottom row: dried mango, spicy seeds, cheese, and oranges.
Middle row: assorted nuts, smoked oysters, and avocado.
Top row: jerky, hard boiled eggs, organic energy blocks, and vials of salt & vinaigrette.

Mountaineering for Mental Health

Mental health goes hand in hand with physical health.  As you increase endurance and strength you’re also gaining many benefits for mental health.  Studies show exercising leads to increased energy during the day, better sleep, and sharper memories.  It can have a positive impact on depression, anxiety, can help to relive stress, and boost your overall mood.  It releases endorphins in the brain that energize spirits and promote feelings of calm and well-being.  All of this is happening while you’re enjoying majestic and stunning views in the great outdoors!

Mt. Whitney Summit!
SMI founder Kurt Wedberg experiencing the euphoria of topping out with another satisfied guest on Mt. Whitney’s famous Mountaineers Route at sunrise!

Mountaineering for Spiritual Health

As a professional mountain guide for 34 years I’m asked why climb mountains all the time.  There are many reasons such as those mentioned in this article.  But, there are others that are difficult to express in words, but are also some of the most powerful.  There is something deeply spiritual about removing yourself from the daily routine of life and immersing in the beauty of nature.  You provide yourself the opportunity to view life from a different perspective.  Situations that may have appeared as big problems transform into smaller issues amid the majesty of the mountains.  When returning to your normal routine this spiritual cleansing helps make everything else more manageable.

Mountaineering for Spiritual Health
Kurt Wedberg on the summit of Kilimanjaro seeing the sunrise high over the African plains.

Along with the positive health gains, mountaineering provides several other benefits that enhance your life in remarkably purposeful and worthwhile ways.

Meaningful Lifelong Friendships

For climbers the mountains are an endless supply of pleasure and satisfaction.  Mountaineers retain vitality and an enthusiastic elation for life.  They’re keenly aware their experiences can never be replicated in a man-made setting.  When climbers tie into a rope together something symbolic occurs that runs far deeper than the practicality of immediate safety.  They are trusting each other with their lives and well-being. This creates a bond of friendship that cannot be duplicated in any other way.  Sharing these rich adventures leads to unique lasting friendships.

Tristan & Kurt summit Devils Crag
Tristan Sieleman & Kurt Wedberg on the summit of Devils Crag deep in the Sierra Nevada.

Why climb mountains? It gives new appreciation for our environment

There is nothing like seeing firsthand a pristine vista to bring a new appreciation for our wild remote lands.  John Muir founded the Sierra Club for this very reason.  He knew if he could offer outings that create opportunities for people to see our wilderness they’ll actively help to preserve it.  Today professional guide services offer expanded resources to experience high and remote places and to learn new skills that help broaden the possibilities available.

High on Crystal Crag
Climbing high in remote places offers a profound and unique perspective on the importance of protecting our environment.

Mountaineering teaches patience and persistence while building self esteem

Summit days are long stretching anywhere from 8 – 16 hours.  Mountaineering builds patience and persistence because it requires mental and physical stamina.  When looking at a big mountain it can appear overwhelming thinking about how to climb it.  However, it’s important to divide a mountain into small manageable chunks that can be ticked off one at a time in succession.  As an analogy, when you’re served a large plate of food you don’t eat it in one bite. It is consumed in manageable bite sized mouthfuls.  In the same way, when climbing a mountain, maintaining patience and persistence are essential. Climbs are successful by taking one step at a time and one section at a time.  Accomplishing this task is a huge boost to confidence and self-esteem.

Mountaineering teaches patience and persistence while building self esteem
The experiences shared on climbs, such as this well earned summit photo from a winter ascent of Mt. Whitney (14505’/4421m), with like minded people can lead to many life long friendships.

Kurt Wedberg has been a professional mountain guide for 34 years and is the founder of Sierra Mountaineering International, Inc. Based in Bishop, CA they offer mountaineering guiding and instruction in the Sierra and on high peaks worldwide.

Summit Kilimanjaro MTB!

On October 4-8, 2019 SMI founder Kurt Wedberg led a group of intrepid mountain bikers to the summit of Kilimanjaro.

Summit Kilimanjaro MTB was a spectacular trip of a lifetime!  Five intrepid mountain bikers joined SMI founder Kurt Wedberg to climb and descend the highest mountain in Africa by bike.

Arrival in Tanzania

The team flew to Moshi, Tanzania.  After 26 hours of travel time and a 10-hour difference from the Pacific Time zone the team took a day to adjust and stretch our legs.  Exploring the Tanzanian scenery on our bikes proved to be the perfect way to accomplish this! Riding through the town of Moshi and into the countryside past sugar cane plantations and rice fields the team soaked in the landscape and got acquainted with the people of Tanzania.

The team poses in front of a relief map of Kilimanjaro on a bike tour in Moshi, Tanzania
Meeting the beautiful people of Tanzania on our bikes.
Tanzanian Bike Shop
Bike shop in Moshi, Tanzania.
Riding past sugar cane and rice fields outside of Moshi, Tanzania.

Summit Kilimanjaro MTB – The Climb

Kilimanjaro is the only place in the world where it is possible to pass through five climate zones in as many days; starting in a jungle and ending in an alpine environment.  Each zone is distinct and reveals new magnificent scenery of this exotic landscape.

Kilimanjaro massif
Kilimanjaro from the town of Moshi, Tanzania

Summit Kilimanjaro MTB – Day 1:  Ride to Camp 1

The team began at the jungle trailhead at 4570’/1393m.  All of our equipment was sent by porters allowing us to go light.  Team member’s carried water, snacks, sunscreen, sunglasses, and a couple clothing items.  The route is a dirt road used as an emergency access path for park service vehicles.  The grade goes from mild to steep as it winds its way through the jungle slowly gaining elevation.  After about three hours the route breaks out of the jungle canopy at 10000’/3048m revealing views of this vast and beautiful landscape.  Six hours of riding brought us to our arrival at Horombo Camp 12200’/3719m.

The team starting the beautiful ride through the jungle.
Kilimanjaro MTB 2019 team arriving at Horombo Camp, 12200’/3719m.

Summit Kilimanjaro MTB – Day 2:  Ride & Explore Kilimanjaro

Today was an acclimatization day.  Drawing from our over 30 years of guiding high altitude peaks worldwide including 3 summits of Mt Everest and 33 climbs of Kilimanjaro we have learned that the safest and most effective way to acclimatize to high altitude is to “climb high and sleep low”. This helps the body begin to produce red blood cells that will in turn aid in successfully acclimating to the newer elevation.

Starting from the Horombo Hut today’s ride was a loop that ascends one trail, then going cross country it connects to another trail.  It offers the opportunity to ascend to over 14000’.  Dressed in rain gear for the intermittent rain the team would experience all day the team ascended through the Moorland.  Passing Zebra Rocks (13225’/4031m) the team veered cross country tp connect to the Marangu Route, which would be the trail leading to high camp and summit day.  At this elevation the path resembles a dirt road in width and the gradual grade makes for excellent riding.  Reaching 14000’/4267’ the team took a good break in the midst of a wide open stunning landscape while replacing calories and rehydrating.  Then it was back to Horombo Camp to recharge for the next day’s move to high camp; Kibo Hut at 15485’/4720m.

Zebra Rocks (13225'/4031m)
Zebra Rocks (13225’/4031m) during an acclimatization ride on Kilimanjaro.
Hike-a-bike through the Moorland
Melanie on a hike-a-bike over a ridge to get to the next section of riding.
Breaking storm in the Moorland
Taking a break as the storm started to break en route to our next trail a short distance below.
MTB at 14000'/4267m on Kilimanjaro
The psych is high as the team reaches 14000’/4267m on Kilimanjaro!

Summit Kilimanjaro MTB – Day 3: Ride to Kibo Camp

Weather cleared for the move to Kibo Hut (15485’/4720m).  With a dark blue sky above and the Kilimanjaro massif in front of us our route was mostly on a wide gradual path.  Moving into the Sub-Alpine climate zone the vegetation thins out opening spectacular vistas across a moonscape decorated by volcanic rock.  After 5 hours of riding we arrived at Kibo Hut with plenty of time to relax, hydrate, and prepare for summit day.

Horombo Camp
Kilimanjaro MTB team mounting bikes for the ride to high camp.
Terrain through the Moorland
Riding the trail through the Moorland. The route gets wider here with mixed rock and dirt.
MTB riding in the sub-alpine zone
Riding through the open 15000′ sub-alpine zone on solid dirt decorated with volcanic rocks.
Kilimanjaro's Marangu Route leading to the crater rim.
Feeling strong in the thin air at 15000’/4572m! The Marangu Route to the summit is visible below the cloud cap covering Kilimanjaro’s crater rim.

Summit Kilimanjaro MTB – Day 4:  Summit Day!

Reaching the summit of Kilimanjaro requires an “alpine start” at midnight.  Much of the terrain indicates “hike-a bike” because it is much steeper than previous days.  After several hours of ascending the route approaches the crater rim at a landmark called Gilman’s Point (18652’/5685m).  The next part of the route was to traverse the oval shaped crater rim. We were able to ride our bikes once again because the terrain dramatically flattens out on the crater. At the next landmark, Stella Point (18885’/5756m), we got our first glimpse of the breathtaking sunrise. The growing pre-dawn light revealed spectacular views of the African plains, the crater, and the origins of the glaciers that still decorate the flanks of Kilimanjaro. We also got our first glimpse of the summit of Kilimanjaro, which is called Uhuru Peak.

Stella Point at sunrise
Arriving at Stella Point (18885’/5756m) in the predawn light. Kilimanjaro’s summit called Uhuru Peak is the highest point on the skyline behind.
Sunrise from Stella Point
Stunning sunrise over the African plains from Stella Point (18885’/5756m).
Kilimanjaro MTB Summit Sign
A well earned photo at the summit sign on the Roof of Africa!

Kilimanjaro MTB Day 4: The Glorious Descent!

Celebration ensued upon reaching the summit!  A magnificent sunrise and stunning views from the Roof of Africa were followed by many pictures.  It was then time to prepare for the amazing descent.  The descent was in 3-parts:  the ride around the crater rim, descending to the Kibo Hut, and the return to Horombo Camp.  Riding around the crater rim in the rarified air above the clouds was exhilarating.  Dropping off the rim the route is steep and rocky.  Carrying bikes through this section the trail below is sandy and steep.  Arriving at the Kibo Hut in the warmer air team members changed clothing layers, rehydrated, ate some snacks and inspected their bikes.  Then it was time to mount up for the thrilling descent down to Horombo.  A distance that takes several hours by foot was covered in about 90 minutes!

Team Kilimanjaro MTB ecstatic on the summit of Kilimanjaro
Team Kilimanjaro MTB ecstatic on the summit and ready to start the epic descent!
Riding from Uhuru Peak, the Roof of Africa
Starting the epic descent from Uhuru Peak, the summit of Kilimanjaro!
MTB high above the clouds
MTB riding on Kilimanjaro’s crater rim high above the clouds and the African plains!
MTB navigating the flanks of Kilimanjaro
Negotiating the steep descent at 17000’/5000m on the flanks of Kilimanjaro.
MTB Kilimanjaro descent
MTB Kilimanjaro descent with the satellite peak Mawenzi in the distance.
Riding into the Kibo Huts 15420'/4700m
Riding into the Kibo Huts at 15420’/4700m.

Kilimanjaro MTB – Day 5:  The Return to the Trailhead

After an epic ride from the Roof of Africa the team celebrated with a hearty meal and a Kilimanjaro beer!  Sleeping at 12200’ felt low after our time at high altitude.  Having slept soundly and well rested the team was psyched for one final downhill ride.  Passing in to the jungle zone and the trailhead the team decided to continue riding through villages as children waved.

MTB at Horombo Hut
Back at Horombo Hut and ready for the final descent through the jungle.
Kilimanjaro MTB team photo at Horombo Hut
Team photo with the beautiful Tanzanian staff that supports SMI’s Kilimanjaro climbs.

An 8 minute video recap of the epic MTB descent of Kilimanjaro!

View a complete photo gallery here.

Are you ready to experience Kilimanjaro MTB?

Contact our office to learn more!

The Climb

Kilimanjaro MTB was an idea conceived by longtime friends of SMI Tristan Gonzalez and Anthony Morasco.  During several successful climbs on California’s 14ers they talked with SMI founder Kurt Wedberg about the idea of bringing mountain bikes to the top of Africa’s highest mountain.  Kurt began leading expeditions to Kilimanjaro in 1996 and has successfully summited it by 7 routes.  In the process he’s not only learned this mountain like nobody else but has cultivated many close friendships in Tanzania making securing permits for this amazing journey possible.

Kurt Wedberg & the staff on Kilimanjaro
SMI founder Kurt Wedberg with the beautiful staff on Kilimanjaro.

Preparation and training

Kilimanjaro MTB requires preparation and training just like any mountain climb.  SMI’s home base in Bishop, CA has an abundance of excellent mountain biking terrain for all ability levels available throughout the year.  Here are a few favorites:

Wintertime highlights

6 Great Winter Mountain Bike Rides around Bishop
Volcanic Tablelands Loop
Buttermilk OHV Road

Summer highlights

White Mountain Peak Trail
Owens Gorge Loop
Lower Rock Creek Trail


SMI’s Second Kilimanjaro Team 2017 gears up for summit day!

Kilimanjaro with Snow on top

SMI’s second Kilimanjaro Team 2017 goes for the summit! They chose to summit via the Northern Circuit Route, a seldom traveled route up Kilimanjaro. They started their trek on February 18, 2017. Follow their journey with us as Kurt Wedberg, SMI Founder, keeps us updated!

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David Schucker and Bryan Miller fresh off the plane in Tanzania
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Diane Tsuda, David Schucker, Bryan Miller, and Andy Schucker start their trek in the jungle!

February 23, 2017

Greetings from Mawenzi Tarn Camp at 4315m on the flanks of Kilimanjaro. Our team just finished day 6 of our 9-day climb.  We started on February 18 at the Lemosho Gate at 2100m. We trekked under the jungle canopy and we’re treated to sightings of Black & White Colobus Monkey’s jumping between tree branches.  Kilimanjaro is the only place where one can pass through 5 climate zones in as many days. Over the past several days we have climbed through the Cultivation & Jungle zones into the Moorland & Sub Alpine zones.

Our team chose the remote and seldom traveled Northern Circuit Route. We’ve been treated to beautiful views of the upper flanks of Kilimanjaro covered with fresh snow from recent storms. We’ve had rain 5 out of 6 days usually after arriving at camp.  The team remains in great spirits enjoying the discovery that accompanies the views each new day brings. Tomorrow we move to to our high camp at 4700m in preparation for our summit bid the following day.

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February 24, 2017

Greetings from 4720m at the Kibo Hut; our high camp on Kilimanjaro! Our team spent last night at the Mawenzi Tarn Camp at 4315m underneath Mt Mawenzi. This impressive satellite peak was formed during the first eruption of Kilimanjaro.  Today we got an early start to trek towards our camp enjoying stunning views of the mountain we came to climb. We spent this afternoon preparing our gear for summit day, hydrating and resting. An early dinner will be followed by early to sleep so we can wake early for summit day. We’ll start wearing headlamps and climb through the night with the goal of reaching the summit in  the early morning.

Everybody has acclimatized well to the high elevation. We’re feeling great and psyched for our summit bid to the Roof of Africa!

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Stay tuned as the second SMI Kilimanjaro 2017 team make for their summit bid on Kilimanjaro! Follow on our Facebook and Instagram @smiguides

The Kilimanjaro 2017 team makes headway!

The SMI Kilimanjaro 2017 Team makes more headway up to the “roof of Africa”! SMI guide Alex Barber checks in:


February 6, 2016

Hello again,

Tonight we’re checking in from Umbwe Cave Camp at 9600ft. This morning we had another coffee centric breakfast at the Springlands hotel. Afterwhich we all piled in our Zara van and spent an hour driving to the Umbwe gate at 5200ft.

The day started hot and humid but the canopy of the rainforest gave us some relief. As our hike took us higher and higher the temp’s cooled, a light breeze picked up along with a light rain. Throughout the day we spotted two types of Monkey and a plethora of different species of bird and plant life, all in all, an engaging day!

We arrived in camp this afternoon feeling good and spent the remainder of our day drinking tea and shootin’ the breeze. Tomorrow we head to Barranco Camp at 12,800ft, the team is excited to be on the trail and ready to bite off another good chunk of Kilimanjaro!

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Giant Senacio Trees at Barranco Camp

February 7, 2017

Today the team is checking in from Barranco Camp at 12,800ft. After a relaxed breakfast in Umbwe Cave camp we hit the trail under clear skies. As we ascended through the Moorlands and into the low alpine zone, the day became cloudy and then quite rainy. The team handled the weather in stride and soon we found ourselves walking into our dining tent at Barranco Camp. We arrived at 2pm and spent a lazy afternoon playing cards and drinking tea, we’ve got a tough lifestyle up here…

Tomorrow we’ll take a acclimatization hike to Lava Tower then return to Barranco camp for a second night. The whole team is in high spirits and ready to keep chipping away at Kilimanjaro!

kili 1

Western Breach Wall at sunset from Barranco Camp

February 8, 2017

Hello from Barranco Camp,

Today the team hiked to Lava Tower at 15,000ft, which was a new high point for everyone. We took a nice long break there and enjoyed the good weather before making our way back to Barranco camp. We arrived to a tasty hot lunch, prepared by our fantastic local support staff.

Tomorrow we will make our way to Karanga Camp, our shot at the roof of Africa is rapidly approaching!

Approaching Lava Tower at 4600m/15,091’

 


Follow more updates on SMI’s Kilimanjaro 2017 team on our Facebook and Instagram @smiguides

SMI’s Kilimanjaro 2017 team arrives!

Aaaaand… SMI is off to start another adventure! This time, our strong team will be ascending Kilimanjaro, a dormant volcano and tallest peak in Africa, towering at an intimidating 19,341 feet. SMI guide extraordinaire Alex Barber, is leading this trip and has just updated on the team’s status:


This is Alex Barber checking in from SMI’s first 2017 Kilimanjaro Climb.

The team arrived late yesterday after some long flights and thankfully so did all of our luggage.
The team had a wonderful breakfast here at the Springlands hotel while getting acqainted with one another. After our leisurely breakfast, we took a stroll through the local farmlands, watching the vibrant people go about their daily work. During our stroll we spotted a wide variety of wildlife. After a mid-day siesta we went into the town of Moshi and walked the local markets, sampling fruit and perusing stores stacked full of trinkets.

Kili #1
A hot day was broken in the afternoon by a cool breeze and we spent the remainder of our day doing gear checks and repacking our bags for the start of the climb tomorrow. We capped off the day with a delicous buffet style dinner pared with lively conversation.

Everyone is doing well here and we’re excited to start our climb of Kilimanjaro!


Follow more updates on SMI’s Kilimanjaro 2017 team on our facebook and instagram @smiguides

Aconcagua Team 2017 establishes Camp 3!

Aconcagua Team 2017 has carried their gear up to establish Camp 3 at 19,600′ and are sleeping there, tonight. And more excitingly, they are headed for the summit tomorrow!!

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Glacier near Camp 3!

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Hiking up to Camp 3!

Kurt reports that the team is, “We’re fed, hydrated & packed for an alpine start to attempt to reach the highest point in the Western Hemisphere! Weather is clear & calm :)”

Woooo! Let’s all send them the best wishes and looking forward to hearing about the summit!

 

 


Stay tuned for more updates as they continue their ascent! Follow more updates on our facebook and instagram @smiguides

Aconcagua Team 2017 reaches Camp 2!

The Aconcagua 2017 team slept at Camp 1 on Wednesday and carried loads up to Camp 2 (17,700′) today! They returned to Camp 1 and ate a yummy and well deserved pizza dinner.

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Kurt Wedberg (SMI Founder) treats himself to a pepperoni pizza at the end of the day

Camp 1 is also called “Plaza Canadá” where the team working on acclimatization to optimize their chances of summiting. They will move to Camp 2 tomorrow to sleep there. Check out their climb to Camp 2, today:

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Rock stars trekking up the grade with their packs!

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What a trooper!


Stay tuned for more updates as they continue their ascent! Follow more updates on our facebook and instagram @smiguides

The Aconcagua 2017 team starts their trip!

Yesterday, the Aconcagua 2017 team gathered in Mendoza, Argentina, and are prepared to start their climb to the summit of Aconcagua! Aconcagua is the tallest peak in the Southern and Western Hemisphere, sitting at 22,841 ft (6,961 m) in the Andes range.aconcagua


The team slowly trickled in from all the US, and even from Slovakia! They started their climb yesterday, on Jan 5, 2017.

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Cory Gaconnet, Martin Takac, Mark Griffith, Kurt Wedberg (SMI Founder), Alex Barber (SMI Guide), Barbara Falco, Cory Gaconnet, and Balmore Flores are psyched to start their climb!

Today, on Jan 6, 2017, by the end of the day, they made it to Pierdra Grande Camp at 10,620′! Their first day was spent trekking through a river filled valley which ended with a delicious authentic Argentinian chicken asado, cooked by their gauchos. Tomorrow, they move to base camp at 13,747′!

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Mules to help carry supplies along the river

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The team pushes through the beautiful valley on their first day.

Stay tuned for more updates as they continue their ascent! Follow more updates on our facebook and instagram @smiguides

 

 

SMI Guide, Amy Ness, Giving Presentation on Torres Del Paine in Lone Pine May 9th

torresCome join SMI Guide, Amy Ness and her partner, Myles Moser, for a presentation of their recent expedition to Patagonia, Chile, where they lived for 19 days on the 4,000 Ft. Central Tower of Paine.

Amy and Miles made the Second Ascent of Un Fina Linea de Locura (“A FINE LINE OF INSANITY”), grade VII, 5.12 A3, 32 pitches in a capsule-style ascent. They then climbed the 3,000ft South Tower, in a record 8 hour and 43 minute push.

The presentation will be held on May 9th at 7pm at the Whitney Portal Hostel in Lone Pine at 238 S. Main St. Doors open at 6pm and the event will be preceded by a potluck dinner.

We hope to see you there!