Category: South America

Why Climb Mountains

Why Climb Mountains

SMI Founder Kurt Wedberg shares some thoughts on why he’s so passionate about climbing mountains

Why climb mountains? Amid all the hardships COVID brought to our lives, the pandemic of 2020 offered the opportunity for many folks to discover mountaineering.  For the first time people are learning benefits that generations of outdoor lovers have known for decades.  A few of those priceless lessons include invaluable benefits for physical, mental, and spiritual health.  It’s also a great way to make meaningful friendships, and see first hand the importance of protecting our environment. Furthermore, it teaches lessons that can be applied to everyday life.

Mountaineering for physical health

Mountaineering requires a general level of endurance and strength.  The cardiovascular and muscular systems are strengthened over time.  Getting into a regular routine increases energy and stamina.  This in turn adds to the enjoyment and expands opportunities for new and bigger adventures; all while gaining improved health!

Kurt Wedberg on the crater rim of El Pico de Orizaba (18410’/5611m), Mexico. The reward for training is experiencing remote and stunning views such as this one high above the Mexican countryside on top of the highest volcano in North America.

Why Climb Mountains: Healthy Diet

There’s nothing like partaking in endurance activities to motivate a good diet.  The human body needs food full of nutrients to function well.  Meal planning is critical.  Unhealthy food will not provide the fuel necessary for long summit days.  Mountaineering creates a great opportunity to explore new foods and develop habits that can be used in everyday life.

Fresh food for fuel. The author’s fuel for a typical Sierra summit day.
Bottom row: dried mango, spicy seeds, cheese, and oranges.
Middle row: assorted nuts, smoked oysters, and avocado.
Top row: jerky, hard boiled eggs, organic energy blocks, and vials of salt & vinaigrette.

Mountaineering for Mental Health

Mental health goes hand in hand with physical health.  As you increase endurance and strength you’re also gaining many benefits for mental health.  Studies show exercising leads to increased energy during the day, better sleep, and sharper memories.  It can have a positive impact on depression, anxiety, can help to relive stress, and boost your overall mood.  It releases endorphins in the brain that energize spirits and promote feelings of calm and well-being.  All of this is happening while you’re enjoying majestic and stunning views in the great outdoors!

Mt. Whitney Summit!
SMI founder Kurt Wedberg experiencing the euphoria of topping out with another satisfied guest on Mt. Whitney’s famous Mountaineers Route at sunrise!

Mountaineering for Spiritual Health

As a professional mountain guide for 34 years I’m asked why climb mountains all the time.  There are many reasons such as those mentioned in this article.  But, there are others that are difficult to express in words, but are also some of the most powerful.  There is something deeply spiritual about removing yourself from the daily routine of life and immersing in the beauty of nature.  You provide yourself the opportunity to view life from a different perspective.  Situations that may have appeared as big problems transform into smaller issues amid the majesty of the mountains.  When returning to your normal routine this spiritual cleansing helps make everything else more manageable.

Mountaineering for Spiritual Health
Kurt Wedberg on the summit of Kilimanjaro seeing the sunrise high over the African plains.

Along with the positive health gains, mountaineering provides several other benefits that enhance your life in remarkably purposeful and worthwhile ways.

Meaningful Lifelong Friendships

For climbers the mountains are an endless supply of pleasure and satisfaction.  Mountaineers retain vitality and an enthusiastic elation for life.  They’re keenly aware their experiences can never be replicated in a man-made setting.  When climbers tie into a rope together something symbolic occurs that runs far deeper than the practicality of immediate safety.  They are trusting each other with their lives and well-being. This creates a bond of friendship that cannot be duplicated in any other way.  Sharing these rich adventures leads to unique lasting friendships.

Tristan & Kurt summit Devils Crag
Tristan Sieleman & Kurt Wedberg on the summit of Devils Crag deep in the Sierra Nevada.

Why climb mountains? It gives new appreciation for our environment

There is nothing like seeing firsthand a pristine vista to bring a new appreciation for our wild remote lands.  John Muir founded the Sierra Club for this very reason.  He knew if he could offer outings that create opportunities for people to see our wilderness they’ll actively help to preserve it.  Today professional guide services offer expanded resources to experience high and remote places and to learn new skills that help broaden the possibilities available.

High on Crystal Crag
Climbing high in remote places offers a profound and unique perspective on the importance of protecting our environment.

Mountaineering teaches patience and persistence while building self esteem

Summit days are long stretching anywhere from 8 – 16 hours.  Mountaineering builds patience and persistence because it requires mental and physical stamina.  When looking at a big mountain it can appear overwhelming thinking about how to climb it.  However, it’s important to divide a mountain into small manageable chunks that can be ticked off one at a time in succession.  As an analogy, when you’re served a large plate of food you don’t eat it in one bite. It is consumed in manageable bite sized mouthfuls.  In the same way, when climbing a mountain, maintaining patience and persistence are essential. Climbs are successful by taking one step at a time and one section at a time.  Accomplishing this task is a huge boost to confidence and self-esteem.

Mountaineering teaches patience and persistence while building self esteem
The experiences shared on climbs, such as this well earned summit photo from a winter ascent of Mt. Whitney (14505’/4421m), with like minded people can lead to many life long friendships.

Kurt Wedberg has been a professional mountain guide for 34 years and is the founder of Sierra Mountaineering International, Inc. Based in Bishop, CA they offer mountaineering guiding and instruction in the Sierra and on high peaks worldwide.

SMI Guide, Amy Ness, Giving Presentation on Torres Del Paine in Lone Pine May 9th

torresCome join SMI Guide, Amy Ness and her partner, Myles Moser, for a presentation of their recent expedition to Patagonia, Chile, where they lived for 19 days on the 4,000 Ft. Central Tower of Paine.

Amy and Miles made the Second Ascent of Un Fina Linea de Locura (“A FINE LINE OF INSANITY”), grade VII, 5.12 A3, 32 pitches in a capsule-style ascent. They then climbed the 3,000ft South Tower, in a record 8 hour and 43 minute push.

The presentation will be held on May 9th at 7pm at the Whitney Portal Hostel in Lone Pine at 238 S. Main St. Doors open at 6pm and the event will be preceded by a potluck dinner.

We hope to see you there!

Update: Aconcagua January 2015 – 2 on the Summit, the Team is Returning

The team is returning to the U.S. now, after 2 out of the 5 team members made successful summit bids. On January 20, 2015, SMI Guide, Tristan “Trippy” Sieleman and Rick Piette topped out on the summit of the highest peak in the Western Hemisphere, Aconcagua (22841 ft)!

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Morning penumbra as Aconcagua casts its immense shadow across the Andes. Awesome!

If climbing to the summits of mountains was without challenges, we wouldn’t refer to the trips as adventures!

After the carry to camp 3 at 19,700ft, one team member suddenly came down with High Altitude Pulmonary Edema and was taken to base camp, where he was evacuated by helicopter to Mendoza. He is now doing well since descending and continued to cheer the group on as they worked toward the summit.

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Up & Over the Col. When a climber gets life threatening High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (aka HAPE) at 18,040′ walking on even the slightest uphill can be next to impossible. Descent is mandatory & time is crucial.

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SMI founder Kurt Wedberg piggybacking the team member over the Ameghino Col at 17,700′ en route to Base Camp on Aconcagua.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kurt checked in on January 20, 2015: “A big shout out to Rick Piette and SMI guide Trippy Sieleman for reaching the summit of Aconcagua. After Lloyd and I turned back they continued under a cold and windy day and nailed it. I couldn’t be more proud of these guys for a job well done!”

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Ricardo huffing and puffing taking 4+ breaths for each step at over 22,000′ above “The Cave” on Aconcagua.

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Ricardo and the morning penumbra as Aconcagua casts is shadows across the landscape of the Andes.

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Ricardo high on Aconcagua summit day. Wind, clouds, cold, and an incredible backdrop of the Andes.

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Ricardo pauses on Aconcagua summit day with the clouds far below.

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Tristan high on Aconcagua summit day. Wind, cold, goggles, and the amazing Andes backdrop.

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Ricardo & Tristan psyched taking a selfie at the highest point in the Western Hemisphere with the South Face of Aconcagua peeking in between.

Congratulations to all group members for their incredible effort and commitment to the team.

The next SMI trip to Aconcagua is scheduled for November 27, 2015, with a trip to Kilimanjaro (19,341 ft) and Carstensz Pyramid (16,024 ft) scheduled even sooner. Be sure to explore the website for all of our trip and course offerings!

More photos of Aconcagua coming soon!

Update: Aconcagua January 2015 – Team at Camp 2, On Schedule for Summit Day

Kurt Wedberg just checked in and said the team is all settled in at Camp 2 (18040′) today and are still on schedule to summit on Monday the 19th!  He says that everyone is feeling strong and healthy. “Our plan is to carry to Camp 3 tomorrow, move to Camp 3 @19500′ on the 18th, summit on the 19th.”

Apparently, the views from Camp 2 are spectacular (pictures later!) and they are all feeling very thankful to be up there!

If you love the play-by-play, here are the inReach updates for the week:

Monday the 12th: “Our well rested team had a nice day hike to 15300′ to stretch our legs & prepare for the work ahead. Tomorrow we carry gear to Camp 1 @16700′. Psyched & ready!”

Wednesday the 14th: “Yesterday we carried 9 days of food & fuel to Camp 1 @16700′. Today we left Base Camp & moved up to C1. Just finished a pizza dinner & enjoying an awesome view”

Thursday the 15th: “Had an awesome 11hrs of sleep. Feeling well rested we carried 5 days of food & fuel to C2 @18040′ today. Views continue to get more spectacular. Life is good :)”

And today, the 16th: “Today our team successfully moved to C2 @18040′ where there’s half the oxygen of sea level. Truly thankful for our health allowing us to see these amazing views”

 

Update: Aconcagua January 2015 – Team Acclimatizing At Base Camp

The team successfully made it to Base Camp at Plaza Argentina (13,747′) on Saturday, where they are spending a few days relaxing, taking acclimatization hikes and preparing loads for their higher camps.

The big message of the day today is that “Lloyd sends his love to Stella!” Technology is awesome.

If you’ve been keeping track as they go, I don’t want you to miss anything! See below:

Friday, January 9th – Day 5 – From Casa de Pierdra, Kurt checked in saying: “Beautiful hike to our last camp before Base Camp. Stuffed after a yummy traditional Argentine steak “asado”. Psyched to reach Base Camp tomorrow!!!!”

Saturday, January 10th – Day 6 – The group made it on time to Base Camp! Kurt said “3 days, 42km & 6000′ elevation gain our team reached Aconcagua Base Camp @13747′! We’ll spend 4 nights here taking acclimatization hikes preparing 2 move higher”

Sunday, January 11th – Day 7 – High spirits as the team relaxes at Base Camp: “It’s a rare treat in our modern age to have a day to just relax, read a good book, enjoy xlnt conversation & eat slow meals. Such was our rest day @Aconcagua :)”

Stay tuned for updates!

Update: Aconcagua January 2015 – Group En Route to Base Camp

Kurt Wedberg checked in yesterday evening with greetings from the team’s first camp en route to their Base Camp for Aconcagua!

From the altitude reading in his inReach message, it would appear that the group is currently in step with their projected itinerary to camp at Pampa de Lenas last night.

Kurt says: “Greetings from our 1st camp @9350′ en route to base camp. Bedded down to gentle sounds of a flowing river & guachos laughing after an amazing chicken bbq.”

Today’s itinerary has them continuing toward Base Camp and camping at Casa de Pierdra at 10,630′ tonight.

Stay tuned for updates!

Aconcagua January 2015 – Kurt and Tristan in Mendoza

Kurt Wedberg and Tristan “Trippy” Sieleman are in Mendoza, Argentina today, making preparations for a summit of Aconcagua (6962m) on the 19th of January.

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They arrived in Mendoza yesterday and have thus far been proving, yet again, that they have the toughest jobs in the world.

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10906086_10205575996300725_4387328300548844747_nTomorrow the plan is to drive to Los Penitentes at 2550m, from where they will begin their hike to Base Camp.

Stay tuned to the blog for updates on the trip!

Aconcagua #2 – 100% Summit Success!

Aconcagua Summit Photo. Left to right: April Mayhew, Bob Szalkiewicz, Joey Szalkiewicz, Gianni Scuncio, Kurt Wedberg. In front Bret Siciliano, Bob Bobbit, and Joe Szalkiewicz.

A big congratulations to our second Aconcagua team of the season for reaching the summit on January 12, 2014!  100% of the group made it to the top of South America and back safely.  For Bob, Joe, and Joey Szalkiewicz this climb also marked the 3rd of their continental summits having previously ascended Kilimanjaro (African continent) and Mt. Elbrus (European continent).  Joey and Gianni Scuncio were the youngest on the team at 16 years old.  The climb was a new altitude record for everybody.  Impressively, Gianni’s previous altitude record was San Gorgonio in Southern California at 11,499’/3505m.

Aconcagua requires a 3-day trek into Base Camp.  Most of the team’s gear for the 2+ week expedition was brought in on mules.  Joining us on the trek into Base Camp was Kym and Brittany Szalkiewicz who rode with our “arieros” (Argentine mule drivers) each day.  Kym and Brittany remained with the climbing team while they acclimatized at Base Camp (13,747’/4200m) for four days then rode out and stayed in the sleepy city of Mendoza soaking up the summertime sun and sampling delicious Argentine cuisine until the climbing team returned.

The expedition began with the weather being clear but windy.  As the team moved above Base Camp they set in three higher camps at 5060m/16,600’, 5480m/17,978’, and 5970m/19,586’.  After the team reached their highest camp on January 11 a snowstorm came in during the afternoon dropping 6-12 inches of new snow.  The team was undeterred though and during the night the storm left leaving a clear day in its wake.

Lead guide Kurt Wedberg woke at 3:20am on January 12 and looked out of his tent.  The night sky was void of clouds revealing a huge blanket of stars in all directions.  The team was woken up and preparations began for summit day as stoves were lit, breakfast made, and water bottles were topped off.

One of the joys of early morning starts on summit day are the views as the sun crests the horizon.  Today’s sunrise didn’t disappoint as Aconcagua’s shadow was cast over the Andean foothills far below.  The team put on crampons at 6188m/20,300’ to gain extra traction in the new snow and frozen dirt.  At 6400m/21,000’ the team caught up to a few others parties on the mountain.  After an efficient rest break and no other parties eager to venture off into the lead the team set off ahead and ended up breaking trail for the last 1841’.  As the air got thin the team’s progress slowed to a rhythmical pace of 2-4 deep breaths per step.  With clear weather and no wind the team stepped out on the summit of the highest mountain in South America at 1:30pm.  After some congratulatory pictures and hugs for a job well done the team ate and drank then descended back the way they came.

The rendezvous back in Mendoza brought the entire team back together where celebrations ensued.  The highlight was dinner at the famous 1884 Francis Mallmann restaurant.

Congratulations to everybody on a great accomplishment!!

A few pictures are below.  The entire photo gallery can be found here.

The team at the trailhead ready to start the expedition.

For both evenings en route to Base Camp the team partaked in a traditional Argentine “asado” cooked by our arieros on a grill over an open wood fire.

Brittany helps prepare fresh sauteed vegetables to accompany our New Years Eve asado.

 

Near the end of our hike on day 2 the team gets its first look at Aconcagua.

 

Our mule train starting up the Relinchos Valley on our final day approaching Base Camp.

The team arrives at Plaza Argentina; Base Camp for our expedition at 4200m/13,747′.

Dinnertime at Base Camp!

The team carrying loads en route to Camp 1.

Joey at the front of the pack on a load carry to Camp 2.

Bret Siciliano

Gianni Scuncio

 

Joe enjoying an afternoon “yerba mate”.

Bob Szalkiewicz

Bob Bobbitt feeling great after moving to Camp 1.

Afternoon snowstorm at Camp 3 the day before summit day.

Bret at the front of the pack as Aconcagua casts its shadow across the Andean foothills at sunrise.

Long shadows shortly after sunrise high on Aconcagua’s flanks on summit day.

The team keeps a steady rhythmical pace on summit day. Here at almost 21,000′ the team is taking about two deep breaths for each step taken up hill.

Joe removes his warm cap with the temperature warming up mid morning as the team approaches 22,000′.

Joey loving the view from 22,400′ at one of the final rest breaks before reaching the summit.

The South Face of Aconcagua becomes the backdrop behind the climbing team only 15 minutes away from the summit.

Team summit photo. Psyched and happy to be at the highest point in South America!

 

Kurt’s Suunto Core altimeter watch reading 6962m at the summit of Aconcagua.

Kurt (right) just starting the descent off the summit of Aconcagua.

The team celebrating an amazing expedition at the famous 1884 Francis Mallmann restaurant in Mendoza, Argentina.