Author: Kurt Wedberg

East African Safari June 21-25, 2011

Posted on June 30, 2011 by - 7 Summits, Africa, International Expeditions, Kilimanjaro, Safari, SMI News

After a highly successful and emotional climb of Kilimanjaro the team then ventured off on a game viewing safari.  We offer safari’s as part of a package with our Kilimanjaro climbs.  They are always fun and they never disappoint.  Since animal behavior is never completely predictable it is always a treat to watch the days unfold.  The only thing we know is that we will get to view some of the most legendary wildlife on our planet.  We visited Lake Manyara, the Ngorongoro Crater, the Serengeti, and Olduvai Gorge.  We also visited a Masai Village.  Below are a few pictures highlighting some of our animal sightings.  The entire photo gallery can be found here:

Safari June 21-25, 2011

Dik Dik's - the smallest of all the antelopes.

Thompson's Gazella

Hartebeest

Wildebeest

Topi in the Serengeti.

Male and female impalas in the Serengeti.

There are over 1100 bird species in East Africa.  We see many on safari.  Here are a few of them:

Grey Crowned Crane

Augur Buzzard

Egyptian Goose

Cory Bustard Bird. The largest flying bird in the world.

Male ostrich

Hildebrandt's Starling

Supurb Starling

Black Rhino. The rhino population has been decimated by hunters and poachers. The Ngorongoro Crater is one of the few places where they can still be seen. There are currently 26 living in the Ngorongoro Crater.

Cape buffalos

African elephants

Teenage elephants playing in the Serengeti.

When eating Masai Giraffe's use their long tongue to wrap around thorny acacia trees

Masai Giraffe's in the Serengeti.

Hippos in the Serengeti.

A lioness resting in the tall grass.

A pride of lions in the Ngorongoro Crater.

A lioness in a tree at the Ngorongoro Crater.

Spotted hyena mother and her offspring.

Cheetah in the Serengeti.


Kilimanjaro June 2011 Wrap Up

Posted on June 30, 2011 by - 7 Summits, Africa, International Expeditions, Kilimanjaro, SMI News


6:45 AM June 19, 2011 - On the summit of Kilimanjaro.

This is a summary of our recently completed Kilimanjaro climb written by Kurt Wedberg.

Our June Kilimanjaro trip was another great success.  The climbers included people from Canada and from both coasts on the USA.  Some were new to the SMI experience and others were long time friends.  Sunniva Sorby and Kurt Wedberg both have roots with Adventure 16 Outdoor and Travel Outfitters where both were introduced to the outdoor industry.  Sunniva has since traveled the world as a lecturer, explorer, adventurer, and guide.  She gathered together a group of ladies to raise money and awareness for kids in Africa affected by AIDS.  Also joining us were several friends of SMI who have all been on trips with us in the past.  Team members included:  Rosemary Berard, Kelly Dunfee, Barbara Falco, Jody Foster, Bettina Hiniker-Breckenfeld, Shena Hinks, Sarah MacDonald, John Risickella, Steve Schumm, Sunniva Sorby, Kathleen Urdahl, and Margaret Webb.  Joining this group were SMI guides Karsten Delap, April Mayhew, and Kurt Wedberg.

Everybody who started on this trip made it all the way to the summit and back down… that’s 15 out of 15 to the summit!!!  A big congratulations to everybody on a job well done!!

Below are a few pictures from the climb.  The rest of the pictures can be found here:

Kilimanjaro June 2011

The team at the park gate ready to go!!

Jody, Rosie, Margaret, April, and Kelly hiking through the jungle trail on Day 1.

The Kilimanjaro Impatients. The jungles on Kilimanjaro are the only place in the world this flower grows.

Shena, Kathleen, and crew hiking through the jungle on day 1.

Kelly, Sunniva, BArbara, and Bettina are all smiles upon getting their first glimpse of Kilimanjaro on day 2.

Helichrysum flower. There are severaly types of these "everlastings" on Kilimanjaro.

Barbara and Jody enjoying the day 2 hike.

Sunniva and Kurt with the summit of Kilimanjaro poking through the clouds.

"Sista Sarah" enjoying one of the many dramatic views Kilimanjaro offers.

The team arriving at Barranco Camp 12,926'/3940m at the end of day 2.

The team assembled in the dining tent. From left to right: Sunniva, Battina, Margaret, Kelly, Steve, John, Karsten, April, Rosie, Barbara, Jody, Kathleen, and Shena.

A porter starting off on day 3 from camp.

John ready to start off on day 3. John went on the first international trip SMI ran to Mexico's Volcanoes and has been a good friend of SMI ever since.

Giant Senacio trees at 13,000'/3962m.

Climbing the Barranco Wall.

Shena, Kathleen, and Karsten topping out on Barranco Wall at 14,000'/4267m.

Kurt and April on top of Barranco Wall with the Heim Glacier and Kilimanjaro's summit dome behind.

Steve is all smiles high above the clouds on top of Barranco Wall.

The team poses for a group photo next to a grove of Giant Senacio trees.

Traversing along the moonscape on the flanks of Kilimanjaro en route to Karanga Camp.

Climbing out of Karanga Valley the last hill before our next camp.

The team arrives at Karanga Camp 12,893'/3930m.

The Big Dipper above Kilimanjaro. The star show every night is always a blessing to see.

The team starts climbing to high camp.

Steve, Margaret, John, Shena, and Kathleen focused and psyched to move to high camp.

April and Karsten en route to high camp.

Headlamps on in the tents as the team wakes up for summit day!

Tea time before starting off on summit day!!

The group's string of headlamps light up a pristine crisp night under a blanket of stars.

The team pacing themselves well in the wee hours of the night.

The team catching the view of sunrise from the east as it casts it's glow over the Africa plains far below.

Traversing around the crater rim of Kilimanjaro. The summit is the highest point in the distance.

Summit photo. 100% to the highest point on the African continent: 19,340'/5895m

Congratulations team on a job well done!!!!

Another trip of a lifetime on safari!

Posted on June 28, 2011 by - 7 Summits, Africa, International Expeditions, Safari, SMI News

Our Kilimanjaro team got down from the mountain and had a great celebration dinner in Moshi on June 20.  The following day we headed out in three Land Rovers for a game viewing safari.  One day was spent at one of the seven natural wonders of the world when we toured the impressive Ngorongoro Crater.  We also spent two nights in the infamous Serengeti Plains, plus visited Lake Manyara, which is famous for its diverse bird populations and lions who climb trees, and experienced Olduvai Gorge where numerous fossils of extinct animals are still being discovered.

A more comprehensive report is forthcoming.  In the meantime we wanted to share a couple quick photos highlighting a couple of our animal sightings:

Above : A lioness in the trees, June 25, 2011.

Below : A cheetah in the Serengeti, June 24, 2011.

Summit Success on Kilimanjaro!

Posted on June 21, 2011 by - 7 Summits, Africa, International Expeditions, Kilimanjaro, SMI News

On June 19 our entire team reached the summit of Kilimanjaro (19,340’/5895m) at 6:45am led by SMI guides Karsten Delap, April Mayhew, and Kurt Wedberg.

Everybody returned safely and had a nice celebration dinner on June 20.  The team is now headed out on a game viewing safari for a few days.

We will have more details about this very memorable climb upon our return from safari.  Thank you everybody for all your prayers and good thoughts!

Kilimanjaro June 2011 trip is on the way!

Posted on June 10, 2011 by - 7 Summits, Africa, International Expeditions, Kilimanjaro, SMI News

Kilimanjaro (19,340'/5895m) from farming fields outside of Moshi, Tanzania.

We are always excited to return to Africa.  Team members have begun traveling to Tanzania from different parts of the globe.  Our objective will be to climb Kilimanjaro via the Umbwe Route.  After the climb we have a game viewing safari planned in the famed Serengeti plains and the Ngorongoro Crater.  Along the way some of the group members will also visit Tarangiri, Lake Manyara, and the famous archeological site at Olduvai Gorge.

We will try to keep you updated on the progress of our climb.  Joining us on this trip of a lifetime are:  Rosemary Berard, Kelly Dunfee, Barbara Falco, Jody Foster, Bettini Hiniker, Shena Hinks, Kathleeen Urdahl, Margaret Webb, Sunniva Sorby, Sarah Macdonald, John Risickella, Steve Schumm, Karsten Delap, April Mayhew, and Kurt Wedberg.

Thank you all for your thoughts and prayers during our travels.  We look forward to being in touch again soon!!

Sunniva Sorby freshly arriving in Nairobi.

Kurt Wedberg at the Nairobi airport.

April Mayhew with luggage at the Nairobi airport.

Team members enjoying fresh air and a late night drink after the long flights to Africa.

Mt. Russell June 4-5, 2011 – The mountains are boss!

Posted on June 7, 2011 by - California 14ers, Mt. Russell, Sierra Nevada, SMI News

SMI guides Rick Poedtke and Kurt Wedberg met Greg Lukenbill, Chad Buelow, and John Walsh for a climb of the East Ridge of Mt. Russell.  This is one of our favorite 3rd class routes in the Sierra.  The terrain is high quality white granite with good holds in an exhilarating setting with spectacular views.  This is a climb we look forward to each year.

We met in the morning of June 4 at Whitney Portal where we divided up group gear, packed our rucksacks, and began our hike.  On day 1 we ascend from Whitney Portal at 8365’/2550m to Upper Boyscout Lake at 11,300’/3444m.  Most of the winter snow has melted up to Lower Boyscout Lake at 10,300’/3139m except for a couple patches of snow still holding on.  Above Lower Boyscout Lake it is still more or less solid snow.  As we climbed the sunny day we had started with began to turn to clouds.  We arrived at our camp at Upper Boyscout Lake at 2pm.  Shortly after arrived here and setting up tents it began snowing as wind gusts became more frequent.  Our altimeters were indicating a drop in barometric pressure as well.  A storm was upon us and the big question for us was how long would it last.

After setting up camp we hopped in our tents to stay dry.  The temperature was warm enough that the falling snow didn’t stick upon hitting the ground.  As the afternoon wore on though we could feel the air temperature drop.  We ate dinner and discussed the climb scheduled for the following morning.  If the storm cleared we would have a shot at the summit.  If it didn’t we would have to descend.  The East Ridge of Mt. Russell does not lend itself well to climbing in inclement weather.  The ridge is exposed and therefore catches a lot of wind.  There is a lot of exposure on the climb too.  Even though hand and foot holds are plentiful the ridge is narrow in places and the ridge drops several hundred feet to the base of Lake Tuleinyo, the highest lake in the the US (a lake being defined at any body of water more than one tenth of a mile in diameter).  At 12,818’/3907m it is over 300′ and almost 100m above Lake Titicaca in South America, which is the highest navigable lake in the world at 12,500’/3811m.

We bedded down that evening with more frequent wind gusts and air temperatures cold enough to allow the falling snow to start sticking.  During the night the cloud layer dropped to about 12,600’/3841m.  Wind gusts became stronger and more frequent.  The storm continued into the morning.  Not seeing any end in site we decided to pack up and descend.  The weather did clear by late morning however winds remained strong at the high elevations and the rock was covered in slippery wet snow.

Turning around on a mountain is always a tough call.  The team discussed this as we descended.  It was obvious the route wasn’t going to be in shape to climb but in the process of turning back we many times learned more than if we would have had clear weather.  We also came back safely and are able to live to climb another day!  Everybody in the group had fun and we will look forward to climbing together on future trips.

A couple pictures are below.  The entire photo gallery is here:  http://www.kurtwedbergphotography.com/Sierra-Trips/2011-Sierra-Trips/Mt-Russell-June-4-5-2011/17400040_dkg6F8

June 4, 2011: The team at Whitney Portal from left to right: Kurt Wedberg, John Walsh, Chad Buelow, Greg Lukenbill, and Rick Poedtke.

"Snow plants" are a fungus flower that stem off the roots of pine trees. The microscopic fungal filaments (called hyphae) greatly increase the surface area of the root systems and facilitate the absorption of water and mineral nutrients from the soil. In return for this vital service, the photosynthetic trees reward their fungal partners with energy-rich carbohydrates and amino acids.

The North Fork of Lone Pine Creek is always full in June as the snow melt increases.

Greg approaching the Ebersbacher Ledges in the North Fork Canyon below Lower Boyscout Lake.

Chad negotiating the Ebersbacher Ledges.

John and Chad above Lower Boyscout Lake on their way to Upper Boyscout Lake.

Greg and Rick en route to Upper Boyscout Lake as the first snow flakes began falling.

Setting up camp at Upper Boyscout Lake 11,300'/3444m.

Wind gusts hit over 50mph during the night. By morning each gust was blowing around a couple inches of freshly fallen snow.

June 5, 2011: Our camp at Upper Boyscout Lake in the morning.

Mt. Whitney Summit Success May 29-31, 2011

Posted on June 2, 2011 by - California 14ers, Mt. Whitney, Sierra Nevada, SMI News

Summit photo on Mt. Whitney May 30, 2011

While guides April Mayhew and Kurt Wedberg were on Mt. Rainier, SMI guides Zach Schneider and Tristan Sieleman  were hosting another stellar group on our beloved Mt. Whitney.  This is a description of the trip as told by Zach Schneider.

The trip started with crystal clear blue skies and chilly temps. We made our way up the main Whitney trail that is now completely free of snow. By the time we made it to Ebersbacher ledges a system moved in and we had periods of snow and wind followed by sunshine. This pattern continued until about 6pm after we made it to Upper Boy Scout Lake.

The North fork trail is also free of snow until the steep switchbacks just before the ledges. Where the trail crosses the creek (where the water fall is) the water was high and the trail is flooded and very icy. We had to bush whack a bit just down stream to cross the creek. The ledges are in fine condition except for a giant log that is wedged between a rock and the cliff. A few stemming moves and a large step up gets one through this crux relatively easily.

Real snow starts at the notch just before Lower Boy Scout Lake and continues all the way to the summit. Sun cups are beginning to form on the slope above LBSL. Thankfully it has been cold enough and the snow line high enough that we did not need snow shoes and were not post hole-ing.

We woke up to a crystal clear Memorial day with little wind and went for our summit attempt. Conditions were about as good as they get, with firm snow and easy travel from camp all the way to the beginning of the mountaineers route. In the couloir itself we found a few inches of new snow that was over a melt freeze crust. Good conditions for kicking steps. Just below the notch the snow is melted out and is mostly rock.

Snow still covers most of the chute after the notch all the way to the summit and is great neve conditions for the last three pitches. The summit was cold and a little breezy but all in all a fine day to summit! An uneventful descent brought us back to camp and a great 4 cheese tortellini and pesto dinner. At about 11pm like a light switch being turned on we started getting hammered by strong winds that lasted all night and through the next day and the hike out.

A great trip trip with lots of laughs and all five team members getting to the summit and back safely.

Congratulations to the Hall team and thanks to International Mountain Guides for the support on this trip!

~Zach Schneider

Mt. Rainier delivers in “full conditions” – May 29-30, 2011

Posted on May 31, 2011 by - Cascades, Mt. Rainier, SMI News

Mt. Rainier from the Muir Snowfield.

This is a summary of a climb of Mt. Rainier by SMI guides April Mayhew and Kurt Wedberg written by Kurt Wedberg.  The plan was hatched this past winter while guiding our January 2011 Aconcagua expedition when April came to me on the trail and suggested we make plans to climb the Liberty Ridge route on Mt. Rainier.  This is a route that has eluded me for many reasons.  Sometimes weather, other times conditions, and still other times when weather and conditions were perfect I’ve had partners back out.  We arrived in Seattle ready to pack and go on Saturday May 28.  Unfortunately fate would again get in our way of attempting Liberty Ridge.  Recent storms had left avalanche hazard on the 40+ degree slopes high.  Besides, the huge winter snowfalls meant the road to the trailhead at White River was still not open.

Our plan B was to climb Mt. Rainier by the classic Ingraham Direct route.  This is the early season route on the south side of the mountain.  During my years working with RMI I had guiding this route many times.  Conditions still looked questionable but we thought it was worth a try.  Amid a series of storms that had been hitting the area (and forecasted to continue for another week or more) all the weather models were showing a slight break between Sunday afternoon and Monday morning May 29-30.  We decided to try to hit this small weather window and sneak in the summit of Mt. Rainier.  After guiding here from 1991 – 2006 a piece of my heart will always be here on this mountain and any chance to visit it is always special, no matter what route we climb.  If I reached the summit on this trip it would be my 120th trip to the top.

We drove to the Paradise parking lot at 5400’, secured a climbing permit, and packed our rucksacks with clothing, climbing gear (rope, harnesses, helmets, harness, plus carabiners, slings, and snow pickets for crevasse rescue), tent, stove, plus enough food and fuel for one overnight stay at Camp Muir at 10,080’.  The weather was cloudy with no precipitation.  Cloud cover with the sun’s rays poking through made for a warm hike.  At 7500’ we broke out of the clouds and were treated to a stunning view of Mt. Rainier.  The heavy winter snowfall has left the mountain beautiful looking beautiful.  We would be treated to this stunning view all the way up to Camp Muir where we planned to spend the night.  We kept a casual pace enjoying the afternoon and arrived at Camp Muir in time to set up camp and take a quick hike up Muir Peak to experience the beautiful sunset this day would offer.

Before departing on this trip we checked in with some of my friends who still guide here.  Nobody had reached the summit within the past week.  Weather and avalanche conditions had turned them around.  Here on the mountain there would be two guided groups giving it a go in the morning.  Knowing they would leave at 1:30 am or so we decided to let them go ahead and break trail for us J.  After a busy winter and spring that saw us on Mexico’s Volcanoes, two Aconcagua expeditions, Kilimanjaro, Mt. Kenya, and numerous Mt. Whitney trips in March and April we felt in pretty good shape.  We knew we would make great time which afforded us the opportunity to sleep in a little longer.  We left Camp Muir at 4:30am.

Weather was clear and calm when we left.  With the absence of a moon we had a blanket of stars above us while we climbed.  We made our way across the Cowlitz Glacier and up to Cathedral Rocks as it became light enough to no longer need headlamps.  We entered the Ingraham Glacier and 50 minutes after leaving camp we took a break at Ingraham Flats at 11,000’.  On the upper mountain we could see the two guided groups making their way up the route.  Each team had several guides leading rope teams.

We put away our headlamps and got out sunglasses then continued up the Ingraham Glacier.  Weaving our way through crevasses and snow bridges we took our next break at 12,400’.  The sun was out, the skies were clear, and a steady wind kept the temperature chilly but manageable.  After applying sunscreen and having a quick snack we continued higher.  At 13,100’ we came upon a large crevasse with an overhanging lip and a fixed line to aid in surmounting it.  Above the crevasse we quickly caught up to the groups above.  A snow bridge had collapsed on a crevasse at 13,600’ and the guides were looking around for an alternative way through.  Meanwhile the clear skies had given way to a cloud cap that was now enveloping the summit.  The sun was slightly poking through above but it made visibility limited.  The guides all decided to turn their groups around.  I saw a way around the right side of the crevasse though so we decided to cross this snow bridge and continue on.  The only party above us on the route was a team of two climbing rangers.  Even with limited visibility the route from here to the summit was familiar territory.  We continued to move well in the increasingly thinner air and an hour after leaving everybody else behind we stepped out on to the summit of Mt. Rainier at 9:30am, five hours after leaving Camp Muir!

After a quick stop for food and water it was time to turn around and head down.  Moving quickly retracing our steps we got back to Camp Muir at 11:15am.  A leisurely lunch and packing our rucksacks we descended back to the Paradise parking lot after experiencing “paradise” of a different kind on the upper reaches of Mt. Rainier!  Mt. Rainier threw a lot of variable weather and conditions at us but delivered another very memorable adventure on this beautiful mountain!!

A few pictures are below.  The entire photo gallery can be viewed here:  http://www.kurtwedbergphotography.com/Cascades/Mt-Rainier-May-29-30-2011/17314981_6q6v6b

April and Kurt at the Paradise parking lot at 5400'/1646m

Snowbanks at the Paradise are evidence of the huge winter snowfall they had this year.

April above Panaroma Point at 6700'/2042m still in a white out before we broke out above the cloud layer.

Kurt with Mt. Rainier behind at 7600'/2317m on the Muir Snowfield after breaking above the clouds

High above the cloud deck April taking the final steps into Camp Muir at 10,080'/3072m.

Inside the "cook shack" at Camp Muir. This stone hut was built in 1919 and is considered a historical landmark in Mt. Rainier National Park. It is now used as the ranger's hut. Until 2007 this hut was used by RMI for the guides and cooks. Here we prepared meals for our clients and the guides leading the climbs would sleep here.

When the "cook shack" was used by the guide service the tradition was that once a guide reaches 100 ascents of Mt. Rainier they could carve their name in the wood beams on the roof. The rangers let us come visit the cook shack and see where my name is carved.

4:15 am April putting on her crampons making final preparations for our summit bid.

5:00 am April at Cathedral Gap shortly before sunrise from the East. Behind is Little Tahoma Peak 11,138'/3395m. "Tahoma" was the Native American name for Mt. Rainier. Little Tahoma is a satellite peak of Mt. Rainier and is the 3rd highest peak in the state of Washington.

From Cathedral Gap looking at the upper mountain and our route to the summit.

A group camped at Ingraham Flats at 11,000'/3353m as we watch the sunrise.

Starting up the Ingraham Direct route at 11,300'/3444m. Behind April on the left is a climbing team from Seattle. They turned back at 13,100'/3993m.

April crossing a large crevasse at 11,400'/3475m on a thick snow bridge.

April at 11,600'/3536m. Route finding through the maze of crevasses on this section of the Ingraham Direct route is one of the cruxes of the climb.

April at 13,100'/3993m. Behind is a party descending. With a cloud cap forming over the summit all the parties turned back this day except us and two climbing rangers who were ahead of us.

April at 13,800'/4206m. There was 35'/10m of rope between us while climbing. The white out gave us only slightly more visibility than this. This was all familiar terrain for me after guiding here between 1991 - 2006. We kept moving well as Mt. Rainier gave us "full conditions" for the last hour of our ascent.

At 13,900'/4237m. In the white out as the wind blew moisture on us it hit a dew point and formed frost on our clothing and April's hair.

Arm's length self portrait on the summit of Mt. Rainier.

Mt. McKinley Wrap Up

Posted on May 24, 2011 by - 7 Summits, Mt. McKinley, SMI News

From left to right: Gary Talcott, Matt McDonough, Tom Hargis, Dan Corn, Bill Simon, Finn Wentworth, Kurt Wedberg, and Drew Daly at the SE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier in Denali National Park.

This is a recap of a Mt. McKinley expedition that SMI founder Kurt Wedberg was a part of.  A few pictures are below.  The entire photo gallery can be found here:  http://www.kurtwedbergphotography.com/Alaska/Mt-McKinley-May-2011/17141713_rx4KXV

On May 1 SMI guide Kurt Wedberg flew to Alaska to be a part of an expedition to Mt. McKinley’s classic West Buttress Route.  The team included Finn Wentworth, Matt McDonough, and long time friend of SMI Bill Simon.  The guide team included Tom Hargis, Gary Talcott, Dan Corn, and Drew Daly.  Logistical support was courtesy of Alaska Mountaineering School who is an authorized concessionaire in Denali National Park.

After flying in to Anchorage the team drove to the town of Talkeetna, which is the jumping off point for expeditions into the Alaska Range.  Talkeetna translated from the native language means “river of plenty” and is located where the Chulitna, Susitna, and Talkeetna rivers converge.  Having less than 1000 year round residents this town is a destination for mountaineers, salmon fisherman, rafters, and tourists taking scenic flights over the Alaska Range.  Here in Talkeetna we organized our equipment and took care of pre trip logistics including meeting with the National Park Service for the briefing they give all teams before starting their expeditions.

Main Street of Talkeetna consisting of a few souvenir shops, eateries, gas station, and a couple general stores.

20 bags laid out for 20 days worth of food.

Bill organizing personal gear to be used on the expedition.

Bill and Finn at the National Park Service briefing.

On May 4 the team took all their equipment to Talkeetna Air Taxi and loaded into two de Havilland Beaver airplanes equipped with skis for the 45 minute flight into the Alaska Range where they landed on the SE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier at 7200’/2195m.

Matt and Bill in the Beaver ready to fly.

The flight into Base Camp offers many dramatic views of the peaks in the Alaska Range. Scenic flights of this range are popular among the many tourists that visit this area.

View of the lower Kahiltna Glacier during the flight to base camp.

Bill at Base Camp with the landing strip on the SE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier on the left. Behind is Mt. Foraker. At 17,400'/5304m it is the 6th highest mountain in North America rising over 10,000'/3048m above Kahiltna Base Camp.

At Base Camp the team set up camp and organized gear and supplies for the expedition.  A cache was left here with 3 days worth of food and fuel for the return trip in case weather caused a delay in the planes picking us up.  On May 5 we loaded up rucksacks and sleds with 20 days worth of food and fuel plus personal gear and clothing.  We descended the SE Fork to 6800’/2073m then turned north up the Kahiltna Glacier.  This glacier is 33 miles/53km long and over 1 mile/1.6km wide in places.  On either side of the glacier rise peaks that reach several thousand feet above.  Climbers are dwarfed to little black dots in an immense landscape which gives a sense of awe and humility in this dramatic scenery.  The team traveled to 7800’/2377m where Camp 1 was established.

Mt. McKinley as seen from Base Camp.

May 5: Bill and Finn geared up and ready to start the journey from Base Camp.

Bill and Matt with sleds in tow in the middle of the massive Kahiltna Glacier.

Finn getting ready to take a rest break next to Matt (seated left) on the Kahiltna Glacier.

Gary Talcott enjoying the days walk along the Kahiltna Glacier.

Tom Hargis at a carefully chosen safe spot for a rest break on the Kahiltna Glacier.

After probing out a safe zone on the glacier platforms were leveled to set up tents at Camp 1 at 7800'/2377m.

Camp 1 at 7800'/2377m.

Over the next couple of days the team would make a load carry to cache gear at 9900’/3018m, took a rest day, moved to Camp 2 at 9900’/3018m, moved to Camp 3 at 11,000’/3353m, and retrieved our cache at Camp 2.

Matt and Kurt at Camp 2. Behind in the distance is Mt. Hunter 14,570'/4441m.

Bill and Matt checking out the scenery and the route above en route to Camp 3. Behind Matt is Tom Hargis and Finn Wentworth.

Camp 3 at 11,000'/3353m. A warm day offering a great opportunity to dry out gear.

Happy Birthday Matt!

Matt and Tom in the kitchen tent at 11,000'/3353m

Bill, Kurt, and Finn at Camp 3.

From Camp 3 the terrain begins to steepen and the views continue to get more dramatic.  The next step in the expedition is to carry gear to a cache at 13,500’/4115m and return to Camp 3 to sleep.  Then we move to Camp 4 at 14,200’/4328m.  The following day we make a short trip with empty packs to retrieve our cache.  From Camp 3 we switch from snowshoes to crampons and swap ski poles for ice axes.  The terrain getting to our cache site involves climbing Motorcycle Hill (35+ degrees), Squirrel Hill (35+ degrees), then we traverse across the Polo Fields, which leads us to the final hill below Windy Corner at 13,300’/4054m.  We were treated to the most clear days of the expedition during these next few days.  As far as the eye can see to the north we saw views of the Alaskan tundra. Decorating our view in every other direction we saw countless peaks in the Alaska Range.  Breathtaking scenery, calm winds, and clear skies made for some unforgettable days of climbing!

View of Mt. Foraker (left) and Kahiltna Dome from Camp 3.

Bill and crew climbing Squirrel Hill with the Peters Glacier and the Alaskan tundra in the background.

Gary Talcott topping out on Squirrel Hill.

Bill psyched to be topping out on Windy Corner on a clear windless day!

Traversing Windy Corner

The team filling our cache site at 13,500'/4115m.

Kurt on the descent from Windy Corner with an empty pack.

Matt and Bill descending Motorcycle Hill after our carry day.

Bill and Matt en route to Camp 4.

Finn, Bill, and Matt enjoying dinner and the scenery at Camp 4 14,200'/4328m.

Camp 4 with the Orient Express Couloir and West Rib behind.

The team stacking blocks to make walls around our camp.

The team at Camp 4 after building walls for our camp. This camp offers an excellent view of Mt. Foraker behind.

Kurt and Bill enjoying a hot drink in their tent.

Finn and Bill in the dining tent.

After being on the mountain for two weeks the team was acclimatizing well and getting ready to move to our high camp at 17,200’/5243m.  Winds began to increase and we then learned of impending weather.  High winds were forecast to reach over 70mph on the summit and predicted to last for several days.  This didn’t bode well for a safe attempt at reaching the summit.  The team discussed the situation and decided to descend rather than trying to wait it out.

This expedition was a great success on many levels.  The team stayed safe which is the first goal on all our trips.  Everybody also learned a lot about mountaineering and about themselves.  We also all returned friends and with a new perspective on the world around us.  Whether or not team members decide to return to give Mt. McKinley another attempt this was definitely a great adventure and another trip of a lifetime.  Thanks everybody for a great trip!

Thanks everybody for a great trip!

Mt. McKinley Update May 19

Posted on May 20, 2011 by - 7 Summits, Mt. McKinley, SMI News

The entire team is safely off the mountain having all flown off of the SE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier yesterday.  The expedition reached a high point of 15,500′ before turning around.  Amid several more days of high winds in the forecast that were projected to reach 70+mph and dwindling food supplies the team decided it was best to turn back.

The expedition was a success on many levels.  Above all else the entire team stayed safe and returned without a single injury.  Everybody also learned a a lot about mountaineering and about themselves.  Everybody remained friends and the adventures shared will only strengthen those bonds.

More news will be coming soon complete with pictures of another amazing adventure.  Thank you to everybody for their thoughts and prayers during our expedition!!